TransGo shift kit install...

[hey mister]

Over the winter I picked a Quadrajet as an exact numbers replacement/backup. I called Cliff to get his kit and we got to chatting. I shared my intent for the Big10 and he suggested a TransGo 1&2 shift kit.
Depending on the springs installed will dictate the personality; street or towing/hauling.
So I was past due for a Summit visit.
The kit was in stock and before the sun set, I was on my way home.

It is supposed to be sunny and in the 50's today and same tomorrow.
I may pull the trigger and install it today.
We shall see.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Over the winter I picked a Quadrajet as an exact numbers replacement/backup. I called Cliff to get his kit and we got to chatting. I shared my intent for the Big10 and he suggested a TransGo 1&2 shift kit.
Depending on the springs installed will dictate the personality; street or towing/hauling.
So I was past due for a Summit visit.
The kit was in stock and before the sun set, I was on my way home.

It is supposed to be sunny and in the 50's today and same tomorrow.
I may pull the trigger and install it today.
We shall see.

What transmission? Are you going through it or is it still in the vehicle?

 

[hey mister]

What transmission? Are you going through it or is it still in the vehicle?

It's a TH350.
The shift kit does not require removal.
Only the valve body and govenor needs removed.

 

[NickTransmissions]

It's a TH350.
The shift kit does not require removal.
Only the valve body and govenor needs removed.

I know the kit doesn't require removal.

I asked because if you had it on the bench you DO NOT NEED to spend any $$$ on a shift kit to achieve the performance you're seeking. You can dual feed the direct clutch internally, recalibrate for shift speed/firmness relative to converter stall, etc via drilling the spacer plate, achieve gear command by blocking the manual low valve inboard, blocking the 2-3 accumulator feed in the VB for firmer 3rd gear shifts, leave out check balls, remove a coil or so off the 1-2 acc piston return spring on the side of the case as required - none of that would require a shift kit and results would be the same, if not better. You can do the same sort of mods to the governor using the Superior Tech governor kit or even improvise your own for next to nothing.

Since it's in the vehicle you won't be able to dual feed internally so a viable alternative is the shift kit...Transgo's 1&2 and 2&3 kits as well as a couple others they offer dual feed via their transfer plate.

 

[hey mister]

I know the kit doesn't require removal.

I asked because if you had it on the bench you DO NOT NEED to spend any $$$ on a shift kit to achieve the performance you're seeking. You can dual feed the direct clutch internally, recalibrate for shift speed/firmness relative to converter stall, etc via drilling the spacer plate, achieve gear command by blocking the manual low valve inboard, blocking the 2-3 accumulator feed in the VB for firmer 3rd gear shifts, leave out check balls, remove a coil or so off the 1-2 acc piston return spring on the side of the case as required - none of that would require a shift kit and results would be the same, if not better. You can do the same sort of mods to the governor using the Superior Tech governor kit or even improvise your own for next to nothing.

Since it's in the vehicle you won't be able to dual feed internally so a viable alternative is the shift kit...Transgo's 1&2 and 2&3 kits as well as a couple others they offer dual feed via their transfer plate.

I had seen some videos of older guys talking about drilling holes and milling out slots to modify it for racing.

Our goal is to use it to pull a 19' to 22' camper.
I'm not looking for any wheel chirping or burnies...lol

 

[hey mister]

Initially, I wasn't going to tear into the tranny today, but it really got nice after lunch and nothing else was on the agenda.
Got everything tore apart and springs swapped out.
I couldn't believe it...The original 4 check balls are freaking plastic. Plastic!
I mean, what could of possibly been the cost difference between 4 plastic balls and 4 steel ball, back in 1978?
Anywho...I got the small plate in and obviously the 4 balls. By then it was dark and really cooling down. So I called it a night and cleaned up. It should be finished by tomorrow afternoon...Lord willing.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Initially, I wasn't going to tear into the tranny today, but it really got nice after lunch and nothing else was on the agenda.
Got everything tore apart and springs swapped out.
I couldn't believe it...The original 4 check balls are freaking plastic. Plastic!
I mean, what could of possibly been the cost difference between 4 plastic balls and 4 steel ball, back in 1978?
Anywho...I got the small plate in and obviously the 4 balls. By then it was dark and really cooling down. So I called it a night and cleaned up. It should be finished by tomorrow afternoon...Lord willing.

The plastic check balls are likely torlon and wont wear the check ball seating locations like the steel ones do - good to have them in there.

Replace your 2-3 acc piston, if it's plastic, with an aluminum one. If an aluminum one is already installed, check the pin bore for wear. If excessive wear is noted, replace with new. Note that there were two diff acc pistons in production. Ensure the same design goes back in, if replacing it.

 

[hey mister]

The plastic check balls are likely torlon and wont wear the check ball seating locations like the steel ones do - good to have them in there.

Replace your 2-3 acc piston, if it's plastic, with an aluminum one. If an aluminum one is already installed, check the pin bore for wear. If excessive wear is noted, replace with new. Note that there were two diff acc pistons in production. Ensure the same design goes back in, if replacing it.

I still have the original balls.

Are they supposed to be "compressable".?
They are about as soft as a hockey puck.

I do have 4 ceramic balls. I thought about putting them in, instead of steel. I just didn't know what kind of fluid induced impact they would encounter.

Fortunately,it won't be any real ttouble to put the originals back in, as long as they arr supposed to be slightly compressable.

All pistons are aluminum and no signs of wear. No scoring. Good fits.

I do want to thank you for the advise.

I know they don't look it, but the ceramic balls are .250.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I still have the original balls.

Are they supposed to be "compressable".?
They are about as soft as a hockey puck.

I do have 4 ceramic balls. I thought about putting them in, instead of steel. I just didn't know what kind of fluid induced impact they would encounter.

Fortunately,it won't be any real ttouble to put the originals back in, as long as they arr supposed to be slightly compressable.

All pistons are aluminum and no signs of wear. No scoring. Good fits.

I do want to thank you for the advise.

I know they don't look it, but the ceramic balls are .250.

You're welcome...Those aren't Torlon so wouldn't use either set; check balls aren't supposed to be compressible - if they wear sufficiently, they will get stuck in the plate (I've seen that on other transmissions w/those style of check balls)...The Torlon check balls are a mocha-colored brown and are solid as the steel balls but won't peen/beat on the seating location in the plate nearly as severely as the steel check balls.

So I'd install the steel check balls or get a pack of Torlon check balls, if you wish.

 

[hey mister]

You're welcome...Those aren't Torlon so wouldn't use either set; check balls aren't supposed to be compressible - if they wear sufficiently, they will get stuck in the plate (I've seen that on other transmissions w/those style of check balls)...The Torlon check balls are a mocha-colored brown and are solid as the steel balls but won't peen/beat on the seating location in the plate nearly as severely as the steel check balls.

So I'd install the steel check balls or get a pack of Torlon check balls, if you wish.

Thanks again.
I really do appreciate the insight.

Yea, I thought it was strange that the original balls could compress. But then, what better way to get a seal than to use a hard rubber ball to seal.
I am familiar with the dk brown balls, but I don't have them.
So I guess the steel one will have to suffice.
I need to get this buttoned up today. It is suppose to rain 6 of the next 7 days and I just under a carport....is what it is.

Thanks again.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks again.
I really do appreciate the insight.

Yea, I thought it was strange that the original balls could compress. But then, what better way to get a seal than to use a hard rubber ball to seal.
I am familiar with the dk brown balls, but I don't have them.
So I guess the steel one will have to suffice.
I need to get this buttoned up today. It is suppose to rain 6 of the next 7 days and I just under a carport....is what it is.

Thanks again.

You're welcome, man. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[hey mister]

Update:
The local parts house ordered a trans oil filter and I went this morning to pick it up. Paid for it and started to drive away, but this little voice told me to take a look at it. So I opened the box and the filter was not square like the one I pulled out. The edge of the filter material was not completely captured by the crimp edge of the metal pan/body. So I went back in to see whats, what. Well, it was a correct filter and all the pictured filters looked like this one. Nobody could find any info on why it was, the way it was. So they reordered a different one like what I removed. It came in a few hours later and putting all the pieces back, commenced.
I had not jacked the truck up to do this, but I'm not sure it would of mattered. That valve body was just heavy enuf and just awkward enuf to bring out the best of the cuss'in. Finally my arms were fatigued out and I couldn't hold it up or steady, so I utilized a small floor jack. It worked perfectly and before I knew it, the bolts were all in and torqued. Buttoned it up then popped out the govenor. I about lost an eye with the first spring. I wasn't going to do the govenor but glad I did. The cap seal was so dried out it just cracked and fell off.
With it all back together, I took a guess at how much ATF to pour in. 3qts was a start. Started it up and added another qt once it warmed up. Took it for a slow drive around the block, pulled back in and checked level again. Added a half quart then went for a short drive. Came back and checked again. To the line...perfect.
If I did not know I put a shift kit in it, I'm not sure I would of noticed anything different, other than it did seem to shift much smoother
I did not try "shift command" yet. Maybe tomorrow.

I will say the instructions did say that this kit was for professionals only.
Having never tore into an auto tranny, I was a tad apprehensive. I have tore into a few GoldWing engines and brought them back up and running, so I figured, it can't be too tough. Besides, I had Ruggle's book to reference.
It was not nearly as difficult as my imagination fabricated.

Before I sat down to bang this out, I went out to check the cardboard I put under the tranny when I got back.
There was no tranny fluid on it. I'll check again tomorrow morning.
Now I just need to find a spot for the sticker.

Next on the agenda...
Total seal and gasket replacement for the motor.

 

[hey mister]

The first filter looked like this.

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[NickTransmissions]

@hey mister - Install a high-flow screen-style filter instead of the cloth-type...Those tend to clog up a bit...Not a huge concern now since you just replaced it but next time you drop the pan for any reason, swap that filter out for the screen type.