Motor mount question

[AuroraGirl]

So I found some. I have LOADS of clamshells of various thicknesses etc but these were a set for sure. THe brackets came off a 1977 350 so should work on mine perfectly. Even though i have the bolts.. I was wondering if you can recommend a good overhaul kit. the one original bolt for the through(long) was almost dust so i cant get a size off it.
also, it appears someone captured the nut with a welder on the one side.. is that a factory thing or did someone decided clearance was going to be HIS bitch that day?
oh and do i just search poly sbc mount inserts? gotta put new rivets in? what kind?

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edit:

@bucket perhaps since i have an NP208 and crossmember/mount out of a 1985 or so square, i should find the motor mount and brackets used for a 350 those years? maybe its putting an angle on the whole shebang? Too low or something?

 

[bucket]

Your brackets should be fine, just worn rubber mounts. Those brackets pictured may or may not work, depending on what they are out of. I know some cars had that captured nut arrangement. '85 engine mounts are the same as '80. Just your t-case mount is specific to a later year.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Your brackets should be fine, just worn rubber mounts. Those brackets pictured may or may not work, depending on what they are out of. I know some cars had that captured nut arrangement. '85 engine mounts are the same as '80. Just your t-case mount is specific to a later year.

Well the bracket SHOULD be a 1977 k25 with 350, sm465, and np205 just like my 1980 but 1977. thats at least based on the trunk full of parts from one lol
based on the welds i think it was welded there by either PO or my gpa. perhaps the clearance around driver side with z bar and etc motivated it lol.

I dont see any harm in going to a quality poly instead of rubber, then i dont have ot touch them again. any leads on hardware that is good or if they need rivets

 

[bucket]

Well the bracket SHOULD be a 1977 k25 with 350, sm465, and np205 just like my 1980 but 1977. thats at least based on the trunk full of parts from one lol
based on the welds i think it was welded there by either PO or my gpa. perhaps the clearance around driver side with z bar and etc motivated it lol.

I dont see any harm in going to a quality poly instead of rubber, then i dont have ot touch them again. any leads on hardware that is good or if they need rivets

I just use the common Energy Suspension brand. They come with zip ties to hold it together before they are bolted down. I just prefer to use rivets.

 

[AuroraGirl]

oh its jsut for the convenience, ill prob use some peen rivets i have so many and never used one in my life yet lol

 

[AKguy]

I am using a 1980 K30 frame that had a 350 to put my 1981 C20 body on as well as installing the 454 that was in the C20. The mounting holes were close, but I had to weld up the old holes and drill new ones. You can see in the pic the pilot holes for new locations versus the factory elogated holes.

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[AuroraGirl]

k30 has different rail stuff tho doesnt it
im going from 3/4 to 3/4 ton same engine and trans even lol

 

[HOTFOOT]

I am using a 1980 K30 frame that had a 350 to put my 1981 C20 body on as well as installing the 454 that was in the C20. The mounting holes were close, but I had to weld up the old holes and drill new ones. You can see in the pic the pilot holes for new locations versus the factory elogated holes.

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had a 77 k20 suburban with a 400 sb removed it and installed a 454 and the hood still closed, fan shroud was a little close to alt. but did not change anything