Motor mount question

[AuroraGirl]

I don't know that your linkage is bent. I'd just make sure you get your mounts and crossmember in proper positions, meaning get back to ground zero where it's supposed to be and then evaluate the Z bar and linkage. IF it's not bent, then it should all fall back into place where it belongs. If it's bent, then replace it.

my throwout fork thing is for sure bent tho, thats no matter what replace needing. I guess I should have clarified that, the Z bar looks intact(maybe worn pivot stuff, but that is age and use) but the part in the bellhousing

 

[AuroraGirl]

I’m thinking you’re correct. After multiple threads about this, it’s evident that your entire drivetrain is about 1 piece of broken baling wire from just falling out of the truck all on its own.
There’s literally 3 things that hold the drivetrain in place. 2 motor mounts and a cross member and all 3 of those are fubarred.
Stop hypothesizing and fix the root cause of the problem instead of “supposing” what “may be” the issue.
This is evident and either you fix it or procrastinate about it.
Whether it’s worth fixing right, or not, is an emotional decision on your part.

I know its broken, im trying to figure out what all is and what to do for it. Ive never replaced any of these components in a not-"fwd early 2000s sedan" which i am not that comfortable with my knowledge on doing them either, and I need part no. or know what all would work BECAUSE i have a broken bailing wire drivetrain. I cant just rock auto because this wouldnt match the OE, and my fsm wouldnt cover the year the trans, case, and probably crossmembers/maybe mounts would be from. I also never touched a clutch system, and I have nothing to compare to it except that "damn that looks wrong" and experts on a website where we help eachother who have done this for 30 years.

So, again, Im trying to figure out 1) what is the issue 2) how to fix it 3) why it is an issue
if you dont want to do any of those, or just have rude comments, you can just ignore the thread or me. it would be a lot easier for you and less stressful for me.

 

[bucket]

I know its broken, im trying to figure out what all is and what to do for it. Ive never replaced any of these components in a not-"fwd early 2000s sedan" which i am not that comfortable with my knowledge on doing them either, and I need part no. or know what all would work BECAUSE i have a broken bailing wire drivetrain. I cant just rock auto because this wouldnt match the OE, and my fsm wouldnt cover the year the trans, case, and probably crossmembers/maybe mounts would be from. I also never touched a clutch system, and I have nothing to compare to it except that "damn that looks wrong" and experts on a website where we help eachother who have done this for 30 years.

So, again, Im trying to figure out 1) what is the issue 2) how to fix it 3) why it is an issue
if you dont want to do any of those, or just have rude comments, you can just ignore the thread or me. it would be a lot easier for you and less stressful for me.

1: Old and shot.
2: Remove the through bolts of the mounts, raise and support the engine, remove old mounts and replace with new. The t-case mount is much easier, you may want to replace that first, just leave the bolts a little loose while changing the engine mounts.
3: Old and shot.

 

[AuroraGirl]

1: Old and shot.
2: Remove the through bolts of the mounts, raise and support the engine, remove old mounts and replace with new. The t-case mount is much easier, you may want to replace that first, just leave the bolts a little loose while changing the engine mounts.
3: Old and shot.

correct. thank you and we arrived here already but grit dog felt the need to make comments. motor mount, i would need the end that goes to the bracket/engine as well as the "insert" correct? Any SBC mount that is for the year range that has 2 components is what i need? good tip on t case, i can see that making sense to help the motor mounts.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I’m thinking you’re correct. After multiple threads about this, it’s evident that your entire drivetrain is about 1 piece of broken baling wire from just falling out of the truck all on its own.
There’s literally 3 things that hold the drivetrain in place. 2 motor mounts and a cross member and all 3 of those are fubarred.
Stop hypothesizing and fix the root cause of the problem instead of “supposing” what “may be” the issue.
This is evident and either you fix it or procrastinate about it.
Whether it’s worth fixing right, or not, is an emotional decision on your part.

Right on.

I laughed pretty good after lookin at them pix like "wtf?" Dont blame Grandpa...
You're turnin the wrenches.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Also on motor mounts, not to hijack thread..

+80 pics later...poor @noob cragmor

What were we talkin about?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Right on.

I laughed pretty good after lookin at them pix like "wtf?" Dont blame Grandpa...
You're turnin the wrenches.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

+80 pics later...poor @noob cragmor

What were we talkin about?

i blame the government.

did you know they are trying to have an election soon?

Just saying.

G L O B A L.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Maybe i'm crushing again..

 

[AuroraGirl]

Maybe i'm crushing again..

GLO.

BAL.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I just remembered the pinion angle @bucket my broken spring and subsequent downward facing pinion probably dont help. would pinion angle spec be the same for np205 so i can use my FSM? when i go to fix spring

 

[bucket]

I just remembered the pinion angle @bucket my broken spring and subsequent downward facing pinion probably dont help. would pinion angle spec be the same for np205 so i can use my FSM? when i go to fix spring

You shouldn't need to worry about pinion angle when you replace the spring. Assuming stock replacement springs.

 

[bucket]

correct. thank you and we arrived here already but grit dog felt the need to make comments. motor mount, i would need the end that goes to the bracket/engine as well as the "insert" correct? Any SBC mount that is for the year range that has 2 components is what i need? good tip on t case, i can see that making sense to help the motor mounts.

You can replace the rubber clamshell mount assembly. Depending on what your truck was put together with, it could have 2 different mounts. 4 corner bolt holes + 2 rivet holes (small block) or 3 staggered bolt holes + 3 staggered rivet holes (big block). Rock Auto has both styles and they are really cheap at around 4 bucks each. But from experience, I've found that the aftermarket clamshell mounts usually collapse with little use.

Or, you can drill out the rivets (very easy, they are hollow) to separate the mount and replace the worn rubber inserts with poly inserts.

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[AuroraGirl]

I cant just open mine, they are twacked on both sides. I can almost assuredly find some used ones, but as far was fitment both staggered and regular should line up on the frame pads, yes? I do have 2 extra set of frame pads but by appearances they are the same

 

[bucket]

Looking back at your pictures, you seem to have small block mounts. The one lower bolt is in the corner, rather than the center of the mount.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Looking back at your pictures, you seem to have small block mounts. The one lower bolt is in the corner, rather than the center of the mount.

SO it was installed twisted? Well that would explain some things

 

[bucket]

SO it was installed twisted? Well that would explain some things

No, I just meant it identifies as a small block mount. So if you get new engine mounts, simply get them for K20 as you would if the truck was all stock.