Wiring Harness journal

[Juggernaut]

You got the turn signal switch figured out. Great job with the pictures. The brake light switch that is zip tied to that bracket is where the cruise control vacuum release should go. I would recommend you remove that switch and put it back in the original hole on the other side. I couldn't tell from your pictures what's in that hole. Maybe the original switch broken off?

 

[Dleslie212]

You got the turn signal switch figured out. Great job with the pictures. The brake light switch that is zip tied to that bracket is where the cruise control vacuum release should go. I would recommend you remove that switch and put it back in the original hole on the other side. I couldn't tell from your pictures what's in that hole. Maybe the original switch broken off?

On the other side of what? Anyway, I don't think I'll ever be using cruise control again, plus literally everything else for it is missing. I'll probably remove the switch but hang on to it in a box or something

 

[Juggernaut]

When you go to install the bulkhead connector, make sure all the terminals are fully seated on the fuse block side. When I first did mine, the terminals for the starter switch weren't all the way snapped in, and I couldn't start the truck. Also, make sure the connector is very tight. I had to move the connector around as I was tightening it for it to fully seat

 

[Juggernaut]

On the other side of what? Anyway, I don't think I'll ever be using cruise control again, plus literally everything else for it is missing. I'll probably remove the switch but hang on to it in a box or something

Picture 143213, the switch on the left should be for your brake lights, the zip tied in switch on the right should be the vacuum release. Maybe the switch on the left is bad? Was it plugged into any of the harness connectors?

 

[Dleslie212]

Both of the switches had wiring plugged into them. The non zip ties switch is definitely the brake lights. I just got finished converting to hydroboost and had to adjust that because my brake lights were always on. The switch on the right didn't have a vacuum light attached to it but maybe Im just not seeing the port. When I get back under there, I'll cut the zip ties off the switch, pull it out and get some better pictures

 

[Juggernaut]

That zip tied switch is also a brake light switch. It would be used in place of a brake light switch with only 2 terminals. Brake lights on one set of terminals, and cruise control on the other set. Someone jury rigged it in that bracket, who knows for what

 

[Dleslie212]

I couldn't stand the thought of plugging my new wiring harness into a ****** old turn signal switch so I went ahead and got a new one. Pulled the steering wheel (barely, the threads on the wheel that you use for the puller are totally stripped, I'll have to get a new wheel now) and removed the old turn signal switch and lock cylinder. Didn't get as far as snaking in the new switch, maybe tomorrow

I got the wiring finished up for the wiper switch, after finding a new bulb socket. I have it attached to my old wiper switch for now, but I ordered a new one that should be here in a few days

 

[Dleslie212]

Old turn signal switch was broken in a few spots and it felt terrible.

 

[Randy and Easton]

American Autowire kit install today. Cleaned up the PO (s) headlight wiring and hopefully high beam and low beam problem (one each on at same time, passed inspection thought!)

Pretty straight forward install except what they do not tell you is the connectors are all Delco and need a special crimping tool that is $90 at summit (not spending that for 2 connections) I struggled with the double connections but used some soder and a lot of finesse and got them to work. Added 30A breaker and everything worked as advertised. Correct lights are on at same time and much brighter as advertised.

Worth the money to clean up the back job wiring and get the load off the headlight switch.

Randy and E

 

[Randy and Easton]

A few more pictures. Heading to get new wire loom and done for today.

 

[Juggernaut]

American Autowire kit install today. Cleaned up the PO (s) headlight wiring and hopefully high beam and low beam problem (one each on at same time, passed inspection thought!)

Pretty straight forward install except what they do not tell you is the connectors are all Delco and need a special crimping tool that is $90 at summit (not spending that for 2 connections) I struggled with the double connections but used some soder and a lot of finesse and got them to work. Added 30A breaker and everything worked as advertised. Correct lights are on at same time and much brighter as advertised.

Worth the money to clean up the back job wiring and get the load off the headlight switch.

Randy and E

You can get those crimpers on Amazon for about $18. Look for non-insulated open barrel terminal crimping tool. They have several and are real handy if you do a complete harness replacement. I have a set of iWiss that work well

 

[Randy and Easton]

Been nice if I had know that before I ripped all the wiring out of the headlights. Funny, the company videos that explain the process do not mention aforementioned specialty crimpers and clearly state how easy the process is.

I figured it out and made it work, but all on the fly.

#neveraseasyastheysay

 

[Dleslie212]

American Autowire kit install today. Cleaned up the PO (s) headlight wiring and hopefully high beam and low beam problem (one each on at same time, passed inspection thought!)

Pretty straight forward install except what they do not tell you is the connectors are all Delco and need a special crimping tool that is $90 at summit (not spending that for 2 connections) I struggled with the double connections but used some soder and a lot of finesse and got them to work. Added 30A breaker and everything worked as advertised. Correct lights are on at same time and much brighter as advertised.

Worth the money to clean up the back job wiring and get the load off the headlight switch.

Randy and E

Couldn't you buy the headlight connector kit and not have to buy the crimpers?

 

[Randy and Easton]

Yes. I did not know they were special and we did not buy them. Figured out about 2 hours into the project that they were special. But @Juggernaut above said $18 on scamazon. Been nice to have them, those two 12 gauge crimps took over an hour to make work… $18 would have been well worth it. The big thing is it was never mentioned on their website or videos that the tool was needed. I guess most guys are smarter than me and probably already know that! And we were well into the tear out so waiting a day for Scamazon really was not in the cards. Wife wanted her garage back

What we have learned here! A few more projects left and the big stuff is finally finished. Dash and door panels this week and 2/4 drop in a week and then dad is taking a break….

Randy and E

 

[Dleslie212]

After a two month delay due to completely rebuilding my steering column (twice) and replacing the steering shaft, I can finally continue with my wiring harness. I got the fuse block and the bulkhead both connected up and mounted today, and will be slowly wiring up as time and weather allow here in Phoenix. I'll make sure to post progress pictures every so often