Wiring Harness journal

[Dleslie212]

Post 3

 

[Dleslie212]

Got most of the interior harness done today, including wrapping up and stowing any if the wires I'm not planning on using for right now.

I have a few things left inside to do, including figuring out how to make the neutral safety switch work, as the provided connector doesn't fit my switch

Got a few more things under the hood wrapped up too. Starter wiring is done, as well as ran the new custom battery cables. Installed a new grounding stud at passenger side frame, and grounded using a ground strap from alternator and engine block. I still need to run a few more grounds.

I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Still need to figure out 700r4 lockup and then I can start installing my Digital Dakota gauges

 

[Dleslie212]

Second post

 

[Dleslie212]

Third

 

[DoubleDingo]

Never enough grounds

 

[MikeB]

I'm a little late to the game, but here's a good video (down the webpage a little) on how to crimp those Packard/Delphi terminals. Watch and listen to the do's and don'ts.

Double and Single Crimper Set

Double and Single Crimper Set

americanautowire.com

There a lots of less expensive crimping tools that will work OK, but I have found the ones from American Autowire to be the best by far. I actually broke down and bought a pair last year when they were on sale at Speedway and I had a discount code. You can sometimes find used ones on eBay. Back in the day they were made by Delphi (or made for them) and had longer handles.

Here are some tools I have used over the years that got me through a few harnesses, but with a little more pain! The two on the bottom right are from American Autowire. The ones on the top left do both crimps at one time using the loose die to the right. But it doesn't work on all dual crimp terminals, and can be tricky.

Bottom line is you've got to crimp both pairs of "wings" so they "roll" over and down. They need be to tight as possible like in the 2nd and 3rd photos below. Then there's no need to use solder, IMO.

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[Dleslie212]

I'm a little late to the game, but here's a good video (down the webpage a little) on how to crimp those Packard/Delphi terminals. Watch and listen to the do's and don'ts.

Double and Single Crimper Set

Double and Single Crimper Set

americanautowire.com

There a lots of less expensive crimping tools that will work OK, but I have found the ones from American Autowire to be the best by far. I actually broke down and bought a pair last year when they were on sale at Speedway and I had a discount code. You can sometimes find used ones on eBay. Back in the day they were made by Delphi (or made for them) and had longer handles.

Here are some tools I have used over the years that got me through a few harnesses, but with a little more pain! The two on the bottom right are from American Autowire. The ones on the top left do both crimps at one time using the loose die to the right. But it doesn't work on all dual crimp terminals, and can be tricky.

Bottom line is you've got to crimp both pairs of "wings" so they "roll" over and down. They need be to tight as possible like in the 2nd and 3rd photos below. Then there's no need to use solder, IMO.

You must be registered for see images attach

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Good info. I bought a pair of those, but 99 percent of my connections have been soldered and shrink tubed

 

[MikeB]

As for shrink tube, have you used the type that shrinks 3:1, or maybe 4:1? It's really nice. Also the type with glue inside.

 

[Dleslie212]

I'm a little late to the game, but here's a good video (down the webpage a little) on how to crimp those Packard/Delphi terminals. Watch and listen to the do's and don'ts.

Double and Single Crimper Set

Double and Single Crimper Set

americanautowire.com

There a lots of less expensive crimping tools that will work OK, but I have found the ones from American Autowire to be the best by far. I actually broke down and bought a pair last year when they were on sale at Speedway and I had a discount code. You can sometimes find used ones on eBay. Back in the day they were made by Delphi (or made for them) and had longer handles.

Here are some tools I have used over the years that got me through a few harnesses, but with a little more pain! The two on the bottom right are from American Autowire. The ones on the top left do both crimps at one time using the loose die to the right. But it doesn't work on all dual crimp terminals, and can be tricky.

Bottom line is you've got to crimp both pairs of "wings" so they "roll" over and down. They need be to tight as possible like in the 2nd and 3rd photos below. Then there's no need to use solder, IMO.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

As for shrink tube, have you used the type that shrinks 3:1, or maybe 4:1? It's really nice. Also the type with glue inside.

I just used the normal stuff, it's worked pretty good so far

 

[Dleslie212]

Back with another update. Almost exactly a year to the day after I started - (I know, I dragged ass. Not knowing what I'm doing, plus 110 degree summers with no shade, plus stopping midway through to completely rebuild my steering column all contributed) - I finally got the battery dropped back in last weekend.

So far everything is working great. I actually have blinkers! High beams and low beams! My ********* HAZARD button works. I haven't actually started it yet due to a gremlin somewhere in my fuel pump or selector valve wiring that I'm trying to figure out, but my Pro Flo 4 system is back online and connected to my phone. I did crank the starter a few times, and it seems like that's working properly too.

I need to figure out the gremlin with the fuel pump wiring and then I can start her up. Once that's done, it's on to the Dakota Digital gauges which all should be fairly straightforward now that the wiring is all brand new.

On a side note - should I be worried about re-priming the oil pump after it having not run for a year? Or just crank her up and see what happens?

 

[DoubleDingo]

I wouldn't worry about priming it, but some might

 

[SquareRoot]

Back with another update. Almost exactly a year to the day after I started - (I know, I dragged ass. Not knowing what I'm doing, plus 110 degree summers with no shade, plus stopping midway through to completely rebuild my steering column all contributed) - I finally got the battery dropped back in last weekend.

So far everything is working great. I actually have blinkers! High beams and low beams! My ********* HAZARD button works. I haven't actually started it yet due to a gremlin somewhere in my fuel pump or selector valve wiring that I'm trying to figure out, but my Pro Flo 4 system is back online and connected to my phone. I did crank the starter a few times, and it seems like that's working properly too.

I need to figure out the gremlin with the fuel pump wiring and then I can start her up. Once that's done, it's on to the Dakota Digital gauges which all should be fairly straightforward now that the wiring is all brand new.

On a side note - should I be worried about re-priming the oil pump after it having not run for a year? Or just crank her up and see what happens?

I saw your post on the PF4 forum yesterday. Sounds like a bad relay. I also rewired my truck, have the PF4 and DD Gauges. You will want to get the DD module that allows you to use the CANbus connector off the EFI to talk to the DD. This will give you all the data from the ECU displayed on the DD. You will be amazed at how much is there. Without it, you can still see the data on the app but's its cool to have it displayed in the gauge panel.

 

[Dleslie212]

I actually did purchase that already, along with the GPS speedo module and the shift indicator module. It's all been sitting in a box here in my office for months now, waiting for the rewire to finish

 

[Dleslie212]

I saw your post on the PF4 forum yesterday. Sounds like a bad relay. I also rewired my truck, have the PF4 and DD Gauges. You will want to get the DD module that allows you to use the CANbus connector off the EFI to talk to the DD. This will give you all the data from the ECU displayed on the DD. You will be amazed at how much is there. Without it, you can still see the data on the app but's its cool to have it displayed in the gauge panel.

I updated the post on the PF4 forum BTW. Was a dum dum moment on my end, I had a popped fuse

 

[kkgp81]

We did my daughters truck with a American Autowire kit after I kept finding terrible wiring decisions while troubleshooting stuff. At the end of the day it was worth the price of admission as everything is neat, labeled, and no unnecessary joints. If you really want to get sporty crimp then solder those connections.