Ahh, there’s my soapbox. So if you had a scan tool and looked at the serial data in real time, you could watch the knock counts and see if it’s going crazy or not so much. Ideally, it’ll knock a couple times at startup, figure it out after a few seconds, and adjust accordingly. The self-test comes a little later as you’ve experienced.
It may have one or two once in a while, but if it’s doing it pretty constantly, you could run with that. Obviously, that’s after your distributor is nice and tight. You’d then have to adjust timing back or mute the knock sensor as suggested. I don’t know about them being overly sensitive, but I’m not doubting it. Still, though. You’re running 91 octane, which should be fine for a 10.5:1 engine even with a respectable base setting. Maybe it’s time to upgrade to 100LL Avgas.
My personal opinion, while ******* with the knock sensor is a good idea and probably 40%of the problem, i think its just masking a deeper issue, the worn out dist.
The issue is rapidly getting worse, and so is the power, Im having random misses on cold cranking now,
the knock sensor would set 1 standard condition, and that be what it is. The decrease in power wouldnt worsen
When the engine temp is still below the thermostat opening , while i dont peg the go fast pedal, i feel the power.
The problems only really show up once its at operating temp and ive been driving it for a bit.
Imo, its......STILL.....a 33x,*** distributor from 1989 with worn out bearings.
Timing IS advanced a couple degrees.
Its evident when i pull a load behind the truck , it (used to) spark knock under WOT.
New dist will get a safer adjusted timing
By the way, as far as the sensitivity, hold a timing light on the dampener and have a buddy lightly tap the block with a hammer (LIGHTLY), if the knock sensor is working correctly, itll pick it up and retard timing.
