What have you done to your square lately??

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BRetty

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Location
Los Angeles
First Name
Franklin
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
I have many things to do on/to/for my truck, but this week was slammed at work, starting at 6AM to beat the heat and 11-12 hr days, so all i could do was fill her up with 91 octane and a can of Seafoam, kind of a lame little gesture I know, I hoped she wouldn't be mad at me.

OMFGWTF!!! She's suddenly running amazing. Frisky. She's all like, "Lets go to VEGAS!!!"

Remember your HS girlfriend's birthday, when you bought her a $100 necklace from the Zales at the mall, and she went down on you right there in the Red Lobster parking lot? And then AGAIN in her parents' driveway? It's like that. The Power of Seafoam!
 

TotalyHucked

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Auburn, Georgia
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Zach
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra 1500
Engine Size
5.3
Got a question for you: is the wide trim with the color band the same for 83-84 and 85-87? Cause the ones I have, are "marked" as 83-84 but they look like what you just put on your truck. I know 83-84 have the matching pieces for the headlight bezels, that the later ones don't use....
The '83/84 band is much narrower than the '85-88. They won't interchange
 

bucket

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'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
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K5 thru K30
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350-454
Shockingly he did, but it was absolutely a paid restoration. Talked about how only people with money or who inherited can own good classics... lol

Sounds like a tool bag. One of those guys that thinks his sh!t don't stink.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Houston, Texas
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Carol
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1990
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R2500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
That’s a good question- but I wouldn’t know. Actually mine is an ‘81, someone put on an 85-87 grille.
Thanks for the information guys!
Got another "odd" question; has anyone on here had a set of factory GMC wire wheel covers? The pix I find on eBay are a generic center cap insert, but I swear the caps Dad had on the '75 Sierra Classic had a silver/chrome center cap and the red insert GMC logo. Best of my recollection is that he got these at the dealership parts department, shortly after buying the truck, and he ran them till he got the Western Wheel turbine mags. Which wasn't but for a few months.... I'm also remembering a story about the factory full wheel covers on the truck getting stolen (guess these were the ones similar to the 67-72 fwc like the early squares used, with the 5 "lug nuts" around the edges). And so he got the wires with the insurance money....
I have no pictures of this truck with any of the covers or wheels, lost them six years ago in the same house fire that got Dad too. That's why I was excited to see what I still think is at least part of that truck in Conroe at the swap meet, February before last. But unfortunately when I had a chance to go back out to where it was, they had left.
 

ChuckN

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Location
Bellinham, WA
First Name
Chad
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Got the truck back last night at about 6pm. When I picked it up, he informed me that apparently it had been cobbled together at one point- the driveshaft was too long, and it had some kind of conversion for the rear u-joint. He didn’t call me to tell me any of this, he just fixed it and did the work.

He shortened the driveshaft, put the correct yoke on it and put brand new Spicer U-joints on it, as well as the True-Trac install. Of course, he balanced everything.

You must be registered for see images attach


All this was to gear up to take it to the C10 show in Olympia today, and Eureka! I had it back in time. Then he reminded me that a guy has to break these things in with a couple heat/full cool cycles. So, I’ll be leaving early this morning in the DD to take some pictures. It’d be stupid to not follow recommendations at this point, there’s always next year. I’m charging up my GoPro batteries and I’ll snag some pictures for y’all today.

Edit- the cost with everything including, driveshaft shortening/balancing, u-joints, all parts and labor was $1566. I have a feeling that is on the low side and I’ll be bringing back business to him any time I can- he gets rave reviews for a reason. Good honest work, or so I’m hoping.
 

Snoots

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Georgia
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Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
I'm needing, on the front axle, new U-Joints, and bearings. I seem to read that Moog and Timken aren't what they used to be.
Anybody got any suggestions?
 

squaredeal91

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Cave junction Oregon
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Greg bush
Truck Year
1991 SB
Truck Model
K30
Engine Size
5.9 Cummins 12 valve
I'm needing, on the front axle, new U-Joints, and bearings. I seem to read that Moog and Timken aren't what they used to be.
Anybody got any suggestions?
Only good ones i know of are Spicer. They have I think 3 grades by color box. Red purple and maybe blue. I've had really good luck with precision u-joints in heavy off road applications. Skf seem to be junk too. I've tested many on my wheelers.
 

DoubleDingo

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Right where I am
First Name
Bagoomba
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350
I'm needing, on the front axle, new U-Joints, and bearings. I seem to read that Moog and Timken aren't what they used to be.
Anybody got any suggestions?
Spicer
 

82sbshortbed

Fuckemall!!
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Location
SE Texas
First Name
Doug
Truck Year
1982, 1984
Truck Model
1500 shortbed, 1500 longbed
Engine Size
454, 305
Got the truck back last night at about 6pm. When I picked it up, he informed me that apparently it had been cobbled together at one point- the driveshaft was too long, and it had some kind of conversion for the rear u-joint. He didn’t call me to tell me any of this, he just fixed it and did the work.

He shortened the driveshaft, put the correct yoke on it and put brand new Spicer U-joints on it, as well as the True-Trac install. Of course, he balanced everything.

You must be registered for see images attach


All this was to gear up to take it to the C10 show in Olympia today, and Eureka! I had it back in time. Then he reminded me that a guy has to break these things in with a couple heat/full cool cycles. So, I’ll be leaving early this morning in the DD to take some pictures. It’d be stupid to not follow recommendations at this point, there’s always next year. I’m charging up my GoPro batteries and I’ll snag some pictures for y’all today.

Edit- the cost with everything including, driveshaft shortening/balancing, u-joints, all parts and labor was $1566. I have a feeling that is on the low side and I’ll be bringing back business to him any time I can- he gets rave reviews for a reason. Good honest work, or so I’m hoping.
That's not too bad of a price. When I had a new driveshaft made for the 82 when I put in the 700r4. It was 500 bucks for the driveshaft. There's only one shop in the area that even does driveshaft work. He took it out there and picked it up for me too. It's hard to find a good honest mechanic these days. If you do? Keep him.
 

82sbshortbed

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SE Texas
First Name
Doug
Truck Year
1982, 1984
Truck Model
1500 shortbed, 1500 longbed
Engine Size
454, 305
Spent 95 bucks on gaskets today to fix all the oil leaks he found while replacing the motor mounts. That should fix all of them except for the rear main seal.
 

Blue Ox

Turning Diesel Fuel Into Fun
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LI-NY
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Derek
Truck Year
MCMLXXXV
Truck Model
K20HD
Engine Size
6.2L
I'm needing, on the front axle, new U-Joints, and bearings. I seem to read that Moog and Timken aren't what they used to be.
Anybody got any suggestions?

Moog never used to be. If it's a shadow of its former self, its frikin daylight now
 

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