V2500 frame compatibility and advice.

[beachsuburban]

Front driver shackle was twisted and after jacking it up on the body mount the frame twists and it flexes the shackle back to almost normal. Previous owner welded a plate on the top frame rail behind the shock mount so this is already tricky. Seems the frame is bent and it twists/flexes. Thinking of replacing the front section of frame, from the bumper to past driver door. Please share your thoughts on this. Does anyone know what other frames would work? This is 89 v2500, it is very difficult to get solid answers on this. Thanks!

 

[fast 99]

As someone who has dealt with bent and worn out frames, obviously best option is replacement. Depending on what is available in your area, finding a suitable frame might be the biggest hang up.

Replacing frames sounds like a huge deal but most vehicles are plug and play because during assembly entire body is dropped on completed frames. After body is removed rest is just parts swapping and accessibility is excellent.

 

[beachsuburban]

Thanks
Do you think its a bad idea to only replace that section, with cross cut, weld and 1/4 inch steel fish plate or replace entire side? If section works, where is a good place to make the frame cut? I was thinking after body mount towards the rear

 

[fast 99]

Guess repairing depends on how it's going to be used and how long you expect it to last. Any frames we repaired were for shorter periods only. Long enough to replace the vehicle. However, I know some larger [up to class 7] trucks are both shortened and lengthened. They are usually double framed and bolted in the sectioned area. DOT does have rules on this if it matters to you. Flanges are where most frame cracks start. Our trucks usually broke just behind the cab mounting area right where you are grafting it.

 

[beachsuburban]

That is sad news. I planned on keeping it forever... I guess what I'm hearing is do the whole thing to do it right. That would be a major undertaking for me because I believe the whole body has to come off and I'm not set up for that. Brian thanks for the help, when you say flange does that mean the reinforcement "fish" plate? Where would you recommend grafting it?

 

[fast 99]

Flanges are top and bottom horizontal areas.

Last frame I replaced used a forklift through the cab with doors off and 4 helpers on the bed. Could also remove seat to reduce weight. Same with bed, remove tailgate. Front end could be removed in pieces or complete only should have help with the hood. All of it could be done without equipment. Camper jacks might be another option but I never used them.

 

[legopnuematic]

In my opinion you’d be better off with a full replacement frame. I feel as there is great potential to make things worse trying to graft two frames together. Not that it couldn’t be done, or hasn’t been. Just not really a weekend project type deal.

A donor frame is nice as you can clean and prep the frame and have it ready to go.

With some cribbing it shouldn’t be too hard to pull a suburban body off the frame, remove the front clip and rear wheels with dollys under it (to get it lower) should only need a few inches of lift to get the frame out from under.

 

[beachsuburban]

Interesting
I have a lot to think about.
Thanks

 

[Ricko1966]

What makes you say you are not set up to change the frame. Do you have a garage and a driveway,or even just a driveway and neighbors that mind their business? The tools to swap the frame aren't that involved or expensive. Remove the front clip,raise the body up with scissor Jack's and long 4x4s supported by cinder blocks,roll the complete frame,engine,transmission and rearend out the front. That's the least tools and expense,ease and cost goes up from there.

 

[beachsuburban]

Alright you make it sound easy. I think that is totally doable. Ricko do you put the jack between the 4x4 and the cinder blocks? Anyone aware of tread about frame removal? Looking for more details like "everything" that has to be removed and disconnected. Besides what has been mentioned I can only think of is a way to disconnect the gas tank from the filler hose, rear bumper and body bolts. Am I missing anything else? Thanks everyone this is going to be a first frame removal for me and once started its no going back. I don't want to mess this up.

 

[Ricko1966]

Alright you make it sound easy. I think that is totally doable. Ricko do you put the jack between the 4x4 and the cinder blocks? Anyone aware of tread about frame removal? Looking for more details like "everything" that has to be removed and disconnected. Besides what has been mentioned I can only think of is a way to disconnect the gas tank from the filler hose, rear bumper and body bolts. Am I missing anything else? Thanks everyone this is going to be a first frame removal for me and once started its no going back. I don't want to mess this up.

You'll have to pull the front clip,in pieces or whole,that's your decision. Can be done whole with a cherry picker. Disconnect steering shaft,all wires,tube's and hoses to engine and transmission,brake lines where they attach to the frame front and rear. Unbolt all the body mounts and lift one side of the body up until you can put blocks in between the frame and the body,do the same to the other side but go higher,now back to side one do this until you can slip 4x4 or 6x6s across the frame from side to side of the vehicle. Place another 4x4 underneath your cross slats now jack up the 4x4 until the body is high enough to roll the frame out. Block the 4x4s up with cinder blocks,crib blocks whatever you have to safely support the weight. Roll out your frame. I think I'd pull the doors and seats to save weight and use 3,maybe 4 cross slats for redundancy on a burb. Read a write up on doing a body lift,I'm sure you can find one online. I put pics of an A body being done this way. It will give you the visual. I haven't done this in 25 or 30 years and it was a Nissan extended cab,but same principles. So no pics,had to use camera and a place to get film developed back then. Big floor jacks weren'tcheap back then either,so scissor jacks,put small tires on first if you have some.You are going to need a friend to help get the frame out. I'll add to this if/as I remember things. Just remembered ebrake cables have to be disconnected and brake combination valve wire. Shift linkage and speedometer cable.

 

[beachsuburban]

Awesome response Rick!
Why do all the hoses and lines from motor and trans need to be disconnected if its all coming out together? I think I understand everything except "3,maybe 4 cross slats for redundancy".
I don't have a cherry picker but with hassle could borrow one so I was going to take clip off in pieces.

 

[Ricko1966]

Awesome response Rick!
Why do all the hoses and lines from motor and trans need to be disconnected if its all coming out together? I think I understand everything except "3,maybe 4 cross slats for redundancy".
I don't have a cherry picker but with hassle could borrow one so I was going to take clip off in pieces.

Lots of hoses,lines,cables,wires will attach to the engine and the body,or accessories mounted on the body. Was just covering all bases without trying to remember every wire,cable,hose,etc. We had a member awhile back that blamed everyone that helped him on his engine pull,when he busted his transmission bellhousing,because we didn't tell him where every single bolt was and he missed a couple. I would say use common sense,but that is a struggle for some. You should have a vent hose on the rearend to disconnect,and fuel filler neck. What I mean about redundancy,the burb is heavier and longer than that lemans,and even if it wasn't,having 3 or 4 crossbeams instead of two would leave a cross beam as a backup( redundant) in case one shifted and fell,or broke etc.

 

[legopnuematic]

We had a member awhile back that blamed everyone that helped him

That was quite the thread.

It started with trying to remove a cylinder head with the intake still bolted to the other head.

 

[beachsuburban]

I completely understand, only a douche would do something like that... Awesome plan Rick, thanks again. Still a lot to think about but definitely in the market for a frame or whole roller at this point and go from there. Trying to make it through the summer and still use it then take this project on in the winter. Thinking now to maybe try to bend it back and weld in some reinforcement to stop it from getting worse until I find a decent replacement.