SBC HEI Distributor clicking loudly and timimng won't stay set where i put it.

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mtnmankev

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Oh okay, so it won't keep it from running, that's all I need to know. I figured as long as it has a key on power to the Bat side of the dizzy, it should work. That's how the old setup was.

Does that have anything to do with the second group of wires I've seen coming out of some HEIs? Wondered what that was. My friends GMC has that on his distributor, and I believe it's an 86 as well.
Mine probably had one of those orginally, because theres a few random cannon plugs hanging down from the firewall that didn't do anything.
That would have been the ESC system.
Just run the standard single wire HEI distributor in your fresh engine, set the timing to where the engine is happy and runs right, and relax and enjoy it.
No need for more crap to go wrong and take away performance when you might need it the most all in the name of emissions control.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Like almost everything else, made in (you know where).
That price is probably what they are supposed to sell for except at retail from a normal parts store with their profit margin.
Personally, I would get one from O'Reilly's for about a hundred bucks (complete) and has a "walk in the store and get a replacement under warranty" just in case..
And yes, that dizzy should drop right in and work fine.
The main power wire connector should be the same as what's on your truck, but double check that !!
I think ESC came out for the 86-up models, and they had more wires.
As long as you have a single heavy power wire live when the key is on, you're good.
I would do that, because I like oriellys, go there all the time, and there'd be free instore pickup, but I already checked with them, and it's about $160, a little more than I'd like to spend.
 

mtnmankev

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I would do that, because I like oriellys, go there all the time, and there'd be free instore pickup, but I already checked with them, and it's about $160, a little more than I'd like to spend.
DAMN, they went up.
I think I paid $99 or $109 for mine not all that long ago.
I should look at their website and look around .............. has to be one for less.
 

mtnmankev

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Yep, they did go up, probably due to supply chain issues or slave labor on strike across the ocean.
The GM08 (pictured) is what you want.
The GM14 is computer controlled (ESC) for $163
Talk to them in the store, they should find a way to at least give you 10% off ...

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Turbo4whl

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The distributor has two problems. The timing variation could be because the advance weights are sticking, worn springs or rust. The clicking could be one of the issues already stated or the vacuum advance diaphragm is leaking. Will pull on then snap back as the diaphragm reaches full travel opening the leak.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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That would have been the ESC system.
Just run the standard single wire HEI distributor in your fresh engine, set the timing to where the engine is happy and runs right, and relax and enjoy it.
No need for more crap to go wrong and take away performance when you might need it the most all in the name of emissions control.
Im good with that. I dont even want to know what that thing does. If it doesn't affect performance and/or reliability, I'm happy.
One less thing to go wrong potentially.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Yep, they did go up, probably due to supply chain issues or slave labor on strike across the ocean.
The GM08 (pictured) is what you want.
The GM14 is computer controlled (ESC) for $163
Talk to them in the store, they should find a way to at least give you 10% off ...

You must be registered for see images attach
That's the one I found, in store its $155ish total with tax and whatever else they add. My brother gets an oreillys employee discount, but even with that, it's probably still more than I want to spend. I would if I had to, but when there are so many online that are $50-80 range, I find it hard to spend that much.
I might still find a cheaper online one, but look for a more known brand, something a little better. Thanks.
 

AyWoSch Motors

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The distributor has two problems. The timing variation could be because the advance weights are sticking, worn springs or rust. The clicking could be one of the issues already stated or the vacuum advance diaphragm is leaking. Will pull on then snap back as the diaphragm reaches full travel opening the leak.
I did notice that the springs dont seem to have much pull. Very little resistance on them to open. And they are slightly rusty looking.
 

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Did we figure out why the rotor tip was hitting the cap?
 

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