got a square body!!!!!!!! s10

[Swims350]

I see it the same as you and made that very point, however today I saw proof it happened, 2 different guy son v8s10 had them do it and they were the transdapt ones that are solid not cut out like these jtr mounts, one showed a pic and had hardly any miles or time frame on them, the other said 4 months and his bent.

That mount it's weird because the frame pads for 2.8 all bolt holes lines up, to the frame and the block, and those mounts lined up to the block all holes, but on the frame like that on the driver's side only 2 lined up. if i were to use them I'd drill the 3rd into the frame to make it work.

As soon as it gets warm I'm going to bolt down the plate mounts for the v8 style frame pads and such

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4689

and if my driveshaft will work I'll leave them as the general agrrement is the plates are "the best" v8 s10 mounts to use.

If the driveshaft is too tight to work I'll switch back to these jtr ones and slide it forward to gain enough room for proper slip of the driveshaft.

 

[Swims350]

well shes in there and running, not by the wiring and key but battery, push button and gas can LOL. stupid shift shaft seal leaking on me and it's brand new, gonna have to redo it, broke a new plug gotta get another new one, and work on my exhaust, biggest thing is figuring out who can cut my driveshadft down or where I can get one cheap around here.

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distributor clearance is good, getting to the one screw that holds the cap on is not.

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it's the one in back on driver's side. rest are easy enough, wiper hump kills that one.

don't mind the plug wire mess I need to get some cut to fit ones and run em custom, same for air cleaner, I've got a new one that one is old.

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my first tube hits right on the bolt holding on the transdapt plates, no big deal to me. fullsize starter has some clearance as well.

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[Swims350]

decided to sit it down on the ground and check the stance, was sitting front high still, cut off another 1/4 coil, sits perfect now front to rear level, but it's way to close to the bumpstops, when you sit in the truck its on them. So now I have to order drop spindles and like 1 inch drop coils or maybe 2, then see how it sits and adjust the back accordingly.

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I haven't done much else, gotta get more parts

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I got a bed full of parts some new some old, and got a work bench full of the same..

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I did try my camaro radiator and fan, gonna need a 1/2 spacer to work but I'm thinking of getting the corvette one and just recess it, give me more room, more room for a spacer and a shroud etc.

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I'd have to come up with a way to mount the camaro one solid for sure as there's no room to spare, but I'll most likely get the other, recess and run a fill cap in the upper hose. I still have to get more exhaust pieces and more brake lines, then the spindles and springs of course, plus more odds and ends so it's kind of on old for now again. I found out my carb must have junk in it because it won't stop dripping gas at idle, it's an edelbrock and my gauge was reading high with a mech. pump only, switched to a carter pump that claims it only does 5-6 or so psi all the time on it's own, it's a mech one as well, no luck, put on a fuel pressure regulator, and it still wants to read 6 psi or so. I'm thinking my gauge is reading bad or something, going to remove carb, open it up, and then clean/inspect

on a side note, I HAVE to fix that visor, in person looks fine but in pics it slopes down I can't stand that. I'll have to raise it up like it should be and mount it

 

[bucket]

Mine was that close to the bump stops, I just removed them. You could feel the arms hit on a real good bump, but it wasn't bad. They were lowering springs though, not soft stockers.

 

[Swims350]

yea mine sits on them completely as soon as you lean on the truck.

I found out stock replacment moog's are cheaper then lowering ones, and usually better ride, so I'm going to order 2 inch drop spindles, then get the moog ones and cut off a lil bit at a time to get it right. Plus they says these have higher rate then g body ones stock even 4 cylinder, s i think I'll get the 4 cylinder ones and see how they sit, give em a week or so and then trim if need be and give em another week, I can literally watch these sag more, when i did this after rocking the truck they sat 1/2 off the frame on the stops, and now they are 1/4 or so, it's still sagging LOL.

That was my thought though remove the stop and use a short one possibly

 

[bucket]

yea mine sits on them completely as soon as you lean on the truck.

That's how mine was.

I don't remember what brand springs they were, but they were cheap. And blue.

 

[Stewzer55]

My S10 was on stock Z85 HD suspension, nose bleed compared to this one.

 

[Swims350]

problem solved, ordered some moog 5660 springs and some 2 inch drop spindles, will trim new springs if need be a lil at a time and check to get it right.

 

[Swims350]

well here' s a lil update, and a preview of what's to come later when the weather stays good..

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some of you may remember the color it was the same one I got for the 88 k1500, never got to use, but we custom mixed it this time, took and added more flake and lightened it up a bit.

 

[bucket]

I was gonna ask if that was the intended color for the old truck. I like the added flake! The term I always used at the old shop while matching paint was "needs more chunks". You got the right amount of chunks, lol.

 

[Swims350]

it was metalic before but we doubled the chunks in the formula and came up with this, it lightened the color and gave it more pop or sparkle. I like it.

 

[89Suburban]

Nice!

 

[Swims350]

it's getting there, got 2 boxes in from summit today, got 4 coming from advance tomorrow and drop spindles coming in saturday.

 

[Swims350]

got some progress made finally, she moves and stops under her own power now, started on some body work have tons more to go. I got all my gauges and lights done as well, pulled the bed to install the new sending unit, clean, fix and paint the underside of the bed, then do cab corner and rocker on the pass. side.

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I don't think I'll run any tailpipes, so exhaust is done. I do have to get an overflow tank and plumb it still as you can see it's just plugged for now. The air cleaner lid is primered, it's going to be painted blue to match the outside. I still have to order a few odds and ends, and get the rest of my wiring installed and hooked up, which is just fuel level gauge wire, and then pluggin in the lights. My tires are still just junk rollers, not sure what I'll be doing, I want to get 10's with more backspace to be closer to being tucked, as those stick out a good 2 inches almost past the bed now, having only 3.75 bs. Then run the same size, 295/50-15's on back, then run something skinny (to clear header tubes) but around the same height in front, like a 26 or so tall tire. I'd need new front wheels as well but it'd be better then having 14's all around. The other option to be cheap and get by is buy cheap 14 inch tires for now and get wides and skinnys later

 

[Swims350]

body work has begun, uncovered hidden secrets LOL.

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I've hammered dents out as best as possible, I've filled the rest, blocked that down, removed waves and bad spots in paint layers, stripper some to bare metal, treated any rust spots or areas with some rust converter from summit, the kind that leaves it black phophurus or whatever, ready for topcoat. I have ordered a new long board and spot weld cutter, going to cut the PS cab corner and rocker panel off, and patch the hole in the DS one. I'm about to prime the doors and fenders and whatever else is ready in some summit DTM epoxy primer. Then I am going to order some surfacer, guide coat, blocking paper and other supplies so I can block it all out.