Davbell22602 first Electolysis

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crazy4offroad

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WOW you could do a whole block in that!! I was thinking about the sheet metal thing, with only one electrode it would seem to me the electric field would still be concentrated on the end with the connection. If you have an electrode on opposite ends of it and a positive connected to both of them it would spread the field out more in the solution. Might be worth experimenting with anyway, I think surface area may be where it's at, instead of just 1 stick of rebar, something that has more contact with the water.
 

davbell22602

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WOW you could do a whole block in that!! I was thinking about the sheet metal thing, with only one electrode it would seem to me the electric field would still be concentrated on the end with the connection. If you have an electrode on opposite ends of it and a positive connected to both of them it would spread the field out more in the solution. Might be worth experimenting with anyway, I think surface area may be where it's at, instead of just 1 stick of rebar, something that has more contact with the water.

Not a 390 FE block not big enough.
 

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I would cut ONLY the top itself off so you can do larger if need be.

Yea I thought about that too. I might just do that.

That's exactly what I'd do. Just cut the top off. You should be able to do most engine blocks with a hoist to lower them into position like I did mine. Then you can also put a bar or 2x4 across the top to hang things from a chain, like an intake manifold instead of laying it flat. Then clamp your negative lead to the chain you are hanging the part from. Here is mine, and you see the water went over the 2/3 level and left me a little extra room for foaming of the electrolyte etc.

attachment.php
 

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davbell22602

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That's exactly what I'd do. Just cut the top off. You should be able to do most engine blocks with a hoist to lower them into position like I did mine. Then you can also put a bar or 2x4 across the top to hang things from a chain, like an intake manifold instead of laying it flat. Then clamp your negative lead to the chain you are hanging the part from. Here is mine, and you see the water went over the 2/3 level and left me a little extra room for foaming of the electrolyte etc.

attachment.php

Can a 2x4 support the weight of 390 4bbl intake with a filler tube?
 

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Sure the 2x4 would, just have to make sure you cut the drum in a way that you leave some stength at the top to support the 2x4. Notice I cut mine above the lip, leaving that lip in place for drum stability. Still a bit weak, but it will hold more than you think. That intake probably weights no more than 30lbs.
 

davbell22602

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Sure the 2x4 would, just have to make sure you cut the drum in a way that you leave some stength at the top to support the 2x4. Notice I cut mine above the lip, leaving that lip in place for drum stability. Still a bit weak, but it will hold more than you think. That intake probably weights no more than 30lbs.

30 pounds? Try 50 pounds. Its a 1964 intake.
 

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30 pounds? Try 50 pounds. Its a 1964 intake.

I still think it'll hold it. And if not, then let the intake rest on the bottom of the drum, then hang it just to keep it straight up and down so it can't fall to one side and hit your steel. Know what I mean?? Let the weight sit on the bottom.
 
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davbell22602

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I still think it'll hold it. And if not, then let the intake rest on the bottom of the drum, then hang it just to keep it straight up and down so it can't fall to one side and hit your steel. Know what I mean?? Let the weight sit on the bottom.

Gotcha. Still hunting for cheap angle grinder. So I havent cleaned the angle iron yet. So I might get this going on monday now.
 
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HotRodPC

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Gotcha. Still hunting for cheap angle grinder. So I havent cleaned the angle iron yet. So I might get this going on monday now.

Don't over analyze Dawg, you already bought a charger, which you'll use for other things for years to come. You got a drill motor??? Go to Lowes or Home Depot, local hardware store, wherever, get some cheap grind stones for a drill motor will even clean that steel up for the this process. It doesn't have to be spotless shiney all over. You seen the ring I used. I basically just knocked the rust off of it. I did grind it till it was shiney where I bolted the 2 pieces together to make sure I got a good joint contact, but past that, I just hit it real quick to knock the rust off, clean it up and that was it. It will take you a tad longer with the drill motor grind stone though, no biggie. Also if you using mower blades you can do that with your bend grinder wheel. :grd:
 

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Don't over analyze Dawg, you already bought a charger, which you'll use for other things for years to come. You got a drill motor??? Go to Lowes or Home Depot, local hardware store, wherever, get some cheap grind stones for a drill motor will even clean that steel up for the this process. It doesn't have to be spotless shiney all over. You seen the ring I used. I basically just knocked the rust off of it. I did grind it till it was shiney where I bolted the 2 pieces together to make sure I got a good joint contact, but past that, I just hit it real quick to knock the rust off, clean it up and that was it. It will take you a tad longer with the drill motor grind stone though, no biggie. Also if you using mower blades you can do that with your bend grinder wheel. :grd:

Ok, Will get grinding stone for a drill from Lowes tomorrow.
 

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Now when using the angle iron and standing the intake up on its end. Does the electrode have to match the height in this case?
 

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Rock on!!!!!! :waytogo:
 

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Now when using the angle iron and standing the intake up on its end. Does the electrode have to match the height in this case?

NO, they donlt have to match heights, but you'll likely want your steel to be sticking out of the water so you can clamp on to it, while the intake will completely submerged.
 

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Good idea on the grinding stone for the drill HR:waytogo: I hadn't thought about that would be much more cost effective for Dave's purposes :High 5:
 

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