Battery posts corrosion wtf

[RecklessWOT]

problem is, if you got a small operation, you only need one guy to get hurt who sees $$$$$$$ or a lawyer does and then the business is simply no more because he or she was liable to keep that guy safe and to train him to certain things etc etc.

That's why you have to be careful about what you do and who you trust. Yes accidents happen that's why they're called accidents, but even something that seems dangerous, if well thought out and done carefully by people that posess a little bit of intelligence will almost always go smoothly. As for the greedy guy in your scenario, well you need to be a good judge of character and not put trust in people like that

 

[AuroraGirl]

That's why you have to be careful about what you do and who you trust. Yes accidents happen that's why they're called accidents, but even something that seems dangerous, if well thought out and done carefully by people that posess a little bit of intelligence will almost always go smoothly. As for the greedy guy in your scenario, well you need to be a good judge of character and not put trust in people like that

The prospect of money can really seemingly flip an otherwise strong soul.

And there are a lot of people out there who can either hide well or you just cant predict either.

 

[Catbox]

Yuss.
Here is what I have done to the ends in the past.
I am happy to report there is no corrosion issues with any of the cables that I have made.
They are all on my vehicles and been in service for many years.

I think I have even posted the whole build process I use on this site in the electrical section.
I like to build my own terminal lugs out of tubing as well as the rest of the cable.

Rough up the inside of the wire clamp with a file edge for retention of soldered cable.

You must be registered for see images attach

Carefully heat the strap with the heating tip of the torch so as not to melt the lead clamp, just the solder.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is the soldered wire secure in its new clamp home.

You must be registered for see images attach

Clean and ready with some heat shrink.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[82sbshortbed]

Yuss.
Here is what I have done to the ends in the past.
I am happy to report there is no corrosion issues with any of the cables that I have made.
They are all on my vehicles and been in service for many years.

I think I have even posted the whole build process I use on this site in the electrical section.
I like to build my own terminal lugs out of tubing as well as the rest of the cable.

Rough up the inside of the wire clamp with a file edge for retention of soldered cable.

You must be registered for see images attach

Carefully heat the strap with the heating tip of the torch so as not to melt the lead clamp, just the solder.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is the soldered wire secure in its new clamp home.

You must be registered for see images attach

Clean and ready with some heat shrink.

You must be registered for see images attach

Good job! I had those same style on mine. So I switched to this style on both posts. Hopefully the molded lead will help with corrosion. Guess time will tell. Lol

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-post-terminal-battery-cable-2-gauge-38-in-red?store=2532&cid=Shopping-Google-Local_Feed&utm_medium=Google&utm_source=Shopping&utm_campaign=&utm_content=Local_Feed&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jd8pHWmnoFXBuK50OtRiXZJTW8xmcz8h6tJjgrgGG_pH4ub5dRAjXcaAkxiEALw_wcB

 

[Grit dog]

Another good way to make up cable ends that look neater or professional is use copper crimping cable lugs.
Quick crimp then hit them with solder, too off with a little piece of heat shrink.

 

[Turbo4whl]

8 pages on battery terminals. GM side mount terminals are better in proventing corrosion than many other types. Done right, they seal air out of the connection.

Medium duty trucks most all have group 31 batteries with a 3/8 stud, and many with sealed connections. Instead of a cable end with a bolt you use a tall nut with a seal on top of it.

Here is a brand new Kenworth with all the extras that were installed by the boom hoist upfitter. This could have sealed cables, but it does not:

You must be registered for see images attach

Best to mark cables before changing batteries.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Sealed group 31 battery cable:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Catbox]

Here is the thread I made that includes all the steps on the cables I make.
Just FYI...

DIY - Battery Cables

I have built these cables for all of the cars in my driveway as well as sets for friends. This will be a lot of photos, but it saves me from having to type all this stuff out once again...

www.gmsquarebody.com

 

[SirRobyn0]

Well this ties into both topics. Forklifts and batteries. So today old Forky got a new battery, and coolant changed. No new terminals however just a new battery.

Sorry the lighting isn't the best where Folky gets parked. And yes I know those aren't the right plug wire boots, but they are working just fine. So I really wanted to install an ACDelco battery, but I would have had to wait longer and the battery failed suddenly. Interstate was able to get one overnight so that's what we went with.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Hunter79764]

My grandpa's safety advice to me was along the lines of "If you're going to do something stupid, at least be smart about it". I've been up in a cage on a forklift, properly tethered to the lift and me to the cage, and it was fine. I've been up on a lift on a sturdy pallet with nothing but my hand hanging on to the mast. And I've been up on a pallet with a harness on, tied off to the mast. Current company doesn't even allow the cage, but personally I'm comfortable being tied off to SOMETHING (forklift or cage), but not nothing. A harness is pretty cheap, and even renting the scissor lift, it's a good addition to have in the shop.

About the lights, part of my day job is a lighting engineer for our industrial plants. PM me if you want some free advice on not having to replace bulbs every year. These days, if you have metal halide lights (round style), the right LED's pay off in about 12 to 18 months and last decades. The wrong ones will pay off in 9-12 months and be due for replacement in 3 years. Fluorescent have a longer payback because they are already fairly efficient, but if you're hiring electricians to swap bulbs, that will be your payback and probably 2 cycles of that along with the energy and you have broken even.

 

[78C10BigTen]

My grandpa's safety advice to me was along the lines of "If you're going to do something stupid, at least be smart about it". I've been up in a cage on a forklift, properly tethered to the lift and me to the cage, and it was fine. I've been up on a lift on a sturdy pallet with nothing but my hand hanging on to the mast. And I've been up on a pallet with a harness on, tied off to the mast. Current company doesn't even allow the cage, but personally I'm comfortable being tied off to SOMETHING (forklift or cage), but not nothing. A harness is pretty cheap, and even renting the scissor lift, it's a good addition to have in the shop.

About the lights, part of my day job is a lighting engineer for our industrial plants. PM me if you want some free advice on not having to replace bulbs every year. These days, if you have metal halide lights (round style), the right LED's pay off in about 12 to 18 months and last decades. The wrong ones will pay off in 9-12 months and be due for replacement in 3 years. Fluorescent have a longer payback because they are already fairly efficient, but if you're hiring electricians to swap bulbs, that will be your payback and probably 2 cycles of that along with the energy and you have broken even.

Funny you say that because the last time i was 30ft in the air on a pallet, hand on the forklift mast.... i was changing 24 different flourescent bulbs in all of our shop lights lol. The place is bright AF now!!!

 

[SirRobyn0]

My grandpa's safety advice to me was along the lines of "If you're going to do something stupid, at least be smart about it". I've been up in a cage on a forklift, properly tethered to the lift and me to the cage, and it was fine. I've been up on a lift on a sturdy pallet with nothing but my hand hanging on to the mast. And I've been up on a pallet with a harness on, tied off to the mast. Current company doesn't even allow the cage, but personally I'm comfortable being tied off to SOMETHING (forklift or cage), but not nothing. A harness is pretty cheap, and even renting the scissor lift, it's a good addition to have in the shop.

About the lights, part of my day job is a lighting engineer for our industrial plants. PM me if you want some free advice on not having to replace bulbs every year. These days, if you have metal halide lights (round style), the right LED's pay off in about 12 to 18 months and last decades. The wrong ones will pay off in 9-12 months and be due for replacement in 3 years. Fluorescent have a longer payback because they are already fairly efficient, but if you're hiring electricians to swap bulbs, that will be your payback and probably 2 cycles of that along with the energy and you have broken even.

So as far as lighting the shop inside is a combination of metal halide and florescent. Outside it's sodium vapor. We only replace the sodiums as needed which is not often.

The building owner has 12 warehouse buildings in the complex, we have one of two that are on the main drag. Our warehouse building was converted into an auto shop in the 80's. IDK the square footage but it's the biggest independent shop I've worked in.

The building owner hires a lighting company once a year that does all of the buildings. We tell the lighting company if we want just non-functional bulbs replaced or all of them. We pay for the bulbs, the building owner pays for ballasts or any fixture work needed. There are a few complications with the building owner (we lease the building) but when we get closer to the annual lighting work (we just did this year in Sept.) so when we get closer to next year I'll hit you up in PM and see what happens.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Well this ties into both topics. Forklifts and batteries. So today old Forky got a new battery, and coolant changed. No new terminals however just a new battery.

Sorry the lighting isn't the best where Folky gets parked. And yes I know those aren't the right plug wire boots, but they are working just fine. So I really wanted to install an ACDelco battery, but I would have had to wait longer and the battery failed suddenly. Interstate was able to get one overnight so that's what we went with.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Suppression/resistance wires on a points engine is harder, but propane is also easier to light off (I think?) but you would get stronger spark if you go to NAPA and get a (make a set)for old points engine. I believe I last got one for a 4 cylinder to do my skidsteer

also that looks 6 volt. thats prob what my dads is too

 

[AuroraGirl]

Funny you say that because the last time i was 30ft in the air on a pallet, hand on the forklift mast.... i was changing 24 different flourescent bulbs in all of our shop lights lol. The place is bright AF now!!!

24 led conversions would have made it SHINEEEEE
My shop has single ended t8 LED 4 foot bulbs, got them affordably couple years back, the conversion done overhead in the shop on a ladder got pretty quick by time I was halfway through them. most of my lights were nonfunctional or just were barely glowing.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Yes it's a 6 volt. The plug wires were something we had hanging around that for whatever reason we couldn't return so I did what was needed to make them work. Not likely that we'd go to propane. Fork lift lights off super easy even when cold, but it doesn't hurt that the shop never gets below 55F at night.