700r4 Rebuild advise

[shiftpro]

I have had so many problems with the 700r4. I paid similar to what you are being quoted. There is a long thread on here about all the issues I have had with mine. One thing I noticed is that a 700r4 from some of the bigger builders like TCI or Bowtie Overdrives that will handle 450-500 HP run about $2500. I really don't know if that's because you are paying a premium for their service, or if they are putting in better parts than a shop charging $1250 to $1500.

My problems (most of them) have been caused by improperly adjusted TV cables and also problems with my converter and lock up. There is a ton of good information on the Bowtie Overdrives website. If the shop you have it at is knowledgeable with the 700r4 you should be OK I would think. The shop that did mine is a well known, reputable shop, but they sure screwed this one up multiple times.

Your prices are about right on. The 700 is one of the most expensive (maybe THE most) transmissions to beef up and hold 500 hp. There's also some different parts to consider if your building for torque vs drag racing.

 

[rt66paul]

put a electric fan on the cooler.

 

[4WDKC]

big heavy truck, big tires, sand.. why risk the money for a transmission that may or may not live and have to rebuild a new transmission when the 700 dies? Build it in favor of overkill and forget about it and it will be cheaper in the long run.

 

[James D Merryman]

Put st least 7 alto red clutches in 3rd use 4L60 e apply plate preferred out of hD 4l65 A wide 2-4 band can be used but it must be with new drum Teflon bsg in frt pump ,Transgo shift kit hD pump slide spring , beast sun shell ,92 model should have all the good upgrades as sprags are concerned and 10 vane pump aux cooler a must Cable adjustment has to be right for it to last

 

[kctschida]

I have a 700r4 that had huge metal chunks in the oil when it was changed. The tranny only recently (before being taken off the road in April for convenience) started showing warning signs, the MPG either dropped by a lot, or increased by a lot... mostly dropped. I did another change shortly a few weeks afterwards of trying to drive rough, and it did look pretty good. I don't plan on dropping 500 hp into the engine bay (350 tbi 1/2 ton HD) but I do not treat my truck gently, and this thread has me wondering if another 700r4 is really the best, or if should go with the 4L60E, and what would be involved with the conversion? I think I understood they are somewhat interchangeable, but I don't know about the electronics issues. If I do keep a 700, is putting in a shift kit really worth it?

Kevin
'87 GMC R1500HD... AT&T contractors package

 

[shiftpro]

put a electric fan on the cooler.

Absofrickenlootly!

And an thermostat too. The transmission needs to warm up. Go big on the cooler and use a fan. Select a cooler with large tubes.
Some coolers will neck down the already restrictive I.D. of the stainless lines.

 

[shiftpro]

If I do keep a 700, is putting in a shift kit really worth it?

All the shift kit does is raise oil pressure for quicker shifts. In a new (or rebuilt) transmission this is a good idea if the firmer shifts
don't bother you. Generally an auto will last longer with a shift kit, depends how you drive it. Some folks can burn an auto in a year and others, who know how to drive, can hammer an auto trans with much less wear than the dolt who just mashes his foot to the floor with the auto in 'D'.
Back to what I was talking about in another thread, about manual shifting an auto tran. I never just throw it in 'D' and mash pedal. I also live in a really hilly town so I want my tran to for example stay in 2nd when facing any hills. Otherwise, in Drive, if I let off for an instant it falls into third gear... then I have to put my foot into it burning more fuel and force the tran to downshift creating heat and wear. And of course, ALWAYS down shift descending. Drive your auto like a clutchless manual for increased 1.performance 2.fuel economy 3.control 4.reliability 5.fun

 

[kctschida]

The last mechanic said it was an automatic and I didn't need to manually shift when I mentioned trying to take it easy, but couldn't do it and dropped in second for a pass. I gave him a confused look and asked, "What do mean?" So strength wise, the 700 is fine, I am gathering. I really think the only reason this transmission survived 15,000 miles after getting the truck, was I just can't drive a truck gently (especially with a 350), and the transmission was just having too much fun. The previous owner was showing off the power as talking about the lack of tranny juice. Not too hard to see where the trouble came from.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Absofrickenlootly!

And an thermostat too. The transmission needs to warm up. Go big on the cooler and use a fan. Select a cooler with large tubes.
Some coolers will neck down the already restrictive I.D. of the stainless lines.

Plate coolers dissipate heat more efficiently then tube coolers.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Plate coolers dissipate heat more efficiently then tube coolers.

X100

 

[Splandman]

Plate coolers dissipate heat more efficiently then tube coolers.

I'm buying a cooler for mine soon. You have a particular one you use? I think someone on here said this one is good:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00803CTDA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3DU8FMKPQTQV2&colid=4GU22WR19FAO

Is this correct or something different? I know this one says it's a plate cooler.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I'm buying a cooler for mine soon. You have a particular one you use? I think someone on here said this one is good:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00803CTDA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3DU8FMKPQTQV2&colid=4GU22WR19FAO

Is this correct or something different? I know this one says it's a plate cooler.

That's a plate cooler. I have a B&M on my truck but that one is the style you want.

You must be registered for see images attach

This is where mine lives.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

If you mount it as I have be sure to put the "out" from the trans on the bottom and the return on the top that way it has to fill the cooler. Or if mountain horizontally fittings up.

 

[Splandman]

If you mount it as I have be sure to put the "out" from the trans on the bottom and the return on the top that way it has to fill the cooler. Or if mountain horizontally fittings up.

Mine is going to a shop on December 19th. Unfortunately, that is this guys earliest opening. My tuck is running and driving but my 3rd and 4th aren't working correctly. Shifts way too early and the whole truck begins to shudder when shifting into 3rd and 4th. Anyway, he is going to pull it out, figure out the issues, put the cooler on, and hopefully I can finally drive this damn thing normally.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Mine is going to a shop on December 19th. Unfortunately, that is this guys earliest opening. My tuck is running and driving but my 3rd and 4th aren't working correctly. Shifts way too early and the whole truck begins to shudder when shifting into 3rd and 4th. Anyway, he is going to pull it out, figure out the issues, put the cooler on, and hopefully I can finally drive this damn thing normally.

For street use it's a good idea to run it into the radiator the out to the auxiliary cooler then back to the trans. It assists in warming the fluid.