5.3 LM7 going in my 87

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fried_daddy

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Got the rattle cans out and went wild!!! I painted over everything except the cylinder heads. This brings us to where we are today. I have to get push rods and lifters installed then I can put the valve covers on for good.

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fried_daddy

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Couple tips.

go ahead and get a chevy 350 test stand like the one below. When you get your harness done you'll be able to start it on it. I used dirty dingo mounts and had to flip them L/R to make it fit but it was easy.

https://www.amazon.com/1000lb-Engin...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Also, if you don't want to rig up a fuel pump for the test when you get to it, get a gas (oxygen, air, helium...whatever) cylinder and put a fitting at the top with a regulator so you can hook up an air compressor to it. Drill a hole in the bottom of the cylinder to run to your fuel rail. Hook up your compressor and adjust it to the psi for your fuel. Then fill it with gas, hook up the compressor and there's your temp fuel pump.

On the same theory above, to prime the engine with oil do the same thing but at around 10 psi with all sending ports plugged....I learned the hard way and got about half a gallon of oil on the house floor. The plug to hook up to is on the drivers side front below the exhaust if I remember correctly. this will prime the engine with oil to everywhere it needs to be before you fire it up.

Take the exhaust and spray them with Ospho and let sit over night. Wipe them down with a new/clean rag and paint with Rustoleum Extreme high heat spray paint. Mine still look good.

Looks good, keep the pics coming.


Thanks for all the pointers and advice. I could find a old tank easy to do that fuel system test. Probably safe to use the same tank for priming and fuel as long as the oil priming is done first then its cleaned well. I'm leaning towards ordering some Speed Engineering long tube headers for my exhaust unless there is a really good reason not to. Would this work as well for a test stand? It already is supposed to have the LS bolt pattern.

https://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Rollin...XPSJMSRW6TS&psc=1&refRID=3ZKJXE20RXPSJMSRW6TS

Looking good. Keep up the good work!!!

Thanks!!
 

Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
Thanks for all the pointers and advice. I could find a old tank easy to do that fuel system test. Probably safe to use the same tank for priming and fuel as long as the oil priming is done first then its cleaned well. I'm leaning towards ordering some Speed Engineering long tube headers for my exhaust unless there is a really good reason not to. Would this work as well for a test stand? It already is supposed to have the LS bolt pattern.

https://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Rollin...XPSJMSRW6TS&psc=1&refRID=3ZKJXE20RXPSJMSRW6TS



Thanks!!


I wouldn't. Looks pretty flimsy and there's no support that bolts where the trans would. i started mine with a screwdriver.....don't think I'd touch those post with a screw driver with that setup lol.

After all the pics you've posted after i commented, I'm obviously a novice compared to you.....do ur thing lol.
 

Josh Helm

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Nice looks good for sure ... and that's the oddest tourqeing tool I seen ... never seen that style... and I build transportation eltric motors for a living and we have lots of different tourqeing tools ...
 

fried_daddy

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I wouldn't. Looks pretty flimsy and there's no support that bolts where the trans would. i started mine with a screwdriver.....don't think I'd touch those post with a screw driver with that setup lol.

After all the pics you've posted after i commented, I'm obviously a novice compared to you.....do ur thing lol.

Good points. I'll figure something out when I get to that point. I'm not sure how long it's gonna take me to re-work the harness. I have a few things to put on the motor then I will be starting the harness work. I also still haven't made my mind up on if I'm going to use my existing TH400 or if I'm going to go put in the 4L60E I got with the motor. I just did a full rebuild on my TH400 a few months ago with some minor upgrades and it has been working beautifully.


Nice work for sure.

Thanks.

Nice looks good for sure ... and that's the oddest tourqeing tool I seen ... never seen that style... and I build transportation eltric motors for a living and we have lots of different tourqeing tools ...
Thanks. It is an angle torque gauge. You torque the head bolts in sequence with a reqular torque wrench, then you torque them X degrees in sequence. Then X degrees in sequence again. Here is a link to it on Lisle website. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/torque-angle-meter
 

fried_daddy

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Got the harmonic balancer installed yesterday along with all of the pushrods and rockers. Put the valve covers on to keep dust out. They won't get their final tightening ubtil I verify good oil flow everywhere.

I decided to go ahead and replace my sensors(crankshaft position, oil level, oil pressure, camshaft position) while I was at it.

The adapter plates bolt onto the block just fine but there is going to be a clearance issue on the passengers side if I go with the low mount A/C compressor and its bracket. I have to check with one of my friends and see what he did for his low mount compressor.

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fried_daddy

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welcom to the LS club! i used tejas mount fit perfect and look OEM made instalation! :)

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Looks great in there!! Very clean install. What did you end up doing for your driveshaft work? And do you have any pictures of how you mounted your expansion tank on the fender? There is a driveshaft shop within 30 minutes of me that I'm thinking about going to talk to.
 

TPISly-C10

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Looks great in there!! Very clean install. What did you end up doing for your driveshaft work? And do you have any pictures of how you mounted your expansion tank on the fender? There is a driveshaft shop within 30 minutes of me that I'm thinking about going to talk to.
since my truck was a long bed before with a 2 pieces DS, i have to made one new cut in one pieces to fit 4L80E/10bolts yok, don't hava other pic but on thing to be aware, don't put it close to the fender because its gonna it the hood hinge! ;)
 

fried_daddy

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since my truck was a long bed before with a 2 pieces DS, i have to made one new cut in one pieces to fit 4L80E/10bolts yok, don't hava other pic but on thing to be aware, don't put it close to the fender because its gonna it the hood hinge! ;)
10-4. Thanks. I also have the two piece DS in my truck. I'll have to post up what I end up doing for the driveshaft. If I'm super lucky, my old one will slide right into place where I put the motor. I have But I am prepared to go through the process of getting a new one.

I have yet to finalize what I plan on doing for motor mount brackets, which will also have an effect on the final position of the driveshaft. I have some of the flat adapter plates, but don't have the correct clamshells to go with the 2292 body mounts. I have some Dirty Dingos ordered. After I ordered them, I read a bunch of stuff about them not working with factory A/C bracket and oil pan hanging below the crossmember. I have also read about the Tejas mounts but they claim to raise the motor and move it forward. Raising is not an issue with me but the moving forward is. I plan on using a clutch fan and I have a radiator I pulled from a Tahoe at the salvage yard that I plan to use so I can keep all of the coolant plumbing as it was with the motor. The tThoe radiator is massive, width wise.
 

fried_daddy

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I received my Dirty Dingo mounts today. I originally had adapter plates but the motor mount I had didn't for the 2292 mounts. I ordered some replacement mounts from summit and they were also too small to reach across the 2292 mounts. I was stuck between Dirty Dingo and Tejas. I ended up choosing Dirty Dingo because in the Tejas swap guide it says that their mounts are not meant to be used with a clutch fan. I plan on running a clutch fan.

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fried_daddy

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I also have all of the plumbing and fittings for my fuel system now. What I ordered is based on the research I did online and once I get it all in, I'll post up a definite parts list for anyone who is interested. Never hurts to have it posted again in case someone does a search. I went with the AC Delco pump and it hasn't arrived yet. My truck is a 1987 and I recently replaced my fuel tank and sending unit with a brand new Spectra. All I have to do is empty and drop the tank then I can swap the pumps and make up all of my -AN hose connections. I'm running braided stainless -6 AN hose from the tank to the fuel rail along with the 58 PSI corvette style regulator.

The next steps for me in this swap is to get the fuel system plumbed up and to finish up the wiring harness. The yard I got the engine from cut the transmission connectors instead of disconnecting them so I have alot of soldering to do. I also need to solder in the wiring for the TAC module. I am considering buying a replacement harness and using that instead, but that would push my project back a bit.

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RoryH19

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Nice work!
You are reminding me of all the fun I had with my LS swap in my k5.
I didn't go to the extent of installing a new cam but replaced all gaskets, seals, sensors...
I went with shorty SS headers since I have limited space. Was able to run true duals.
I also used the donor overflow tank and radiator with e-fans.
For the motor mounts, I have the stock mounts on the sub frame (k-member) with LS swap brackets. Can't recall the name but they set the engine back 1 inch. This allows the use of the stock driveshaft.
For the AC compressor, not much you can do without a new bracket. I plan to install a high mount one with a sanden compressor. It will basically sits in front of the right head.
For the fuel pump I went with a DeatschWerks. Had many good review and works well for me.
I also built my own lines with An6 and used the vette style pump/regulator.
My harness was intact and removed from a running escalade. I reworked myself and made my own power distribution block with fuses and relays.

For the trans, I like having overdrive. I would go with the new one. There are plenty of people that would buy you TH400 if you wanted to sell.

You can see some of my build in signature.
 

RoryH19

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welcom to the LS club! i used tejas mount fit perfect and look OEM made instalation! :)

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I've been looking for a filler piece to cover the gap between my rad and e-fans.
Where did you get yours? I've seen one from a 454 that might work too.
 

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