What have you done to your square lately??

[Sgt Gus]

I'm just getting caught back up here on the gas tank discussion. Are you saying your senders are under the bed? Every shortbed 16 gallon tank I've ever seen has the sender under the cab like soundmound's truck. Mine are that way as well. Only the longbed trucks got had the sender under the bed (20 gal tank, not sure where it landed on longbeds optioned with the 16gal tank/tanks)

On our 87 silverado (two 20's) the senders are pretty much between the cab and bed. So far, pulled down and fixed drivers. Whew doggies!

 

[Sgt Gus]

Y'all are bad influences.. all this tank talk..

Just placed an order for 2 new ones.

How do I tell my wife what I've done?

New tanks? 16 or 20's. Metal or poly?

 

[Ajax19]

I just removed the pos edelbrock carb and it looks like i won't need the adapter for the quadrajet like I thought I would. It looks like a spread bore intake is already on it. Right?

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The quadrajet should bolt right up I'm thinking. Or would it hurt to use the adapter plate?

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Id try with that's a cool looking adapter and yea that's a dual plane manifold perfect for daily truck dutys

 

[Ajax19]

Condensed video from the other day better quality and some front cam footage of the rescue lol

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[Rustisbest]

355 SBC, about 10:1. Cam unknown, runs about 15-16 mmHg at 750 rpm. Timing is set to 35 total at about 3000, initial is 14 deg. Edelbrock 650 CFM AVS2. 461 60s era Camelhump heads.

Will it rev clean in park/neutral?
What converter and trans?
Just my opinion but you're missing 3 or more degrees of timing with those heads

 

[Ajax19]

I know someone was watching for the bull bar build and I have not forgotten I'm working on it today some changes I have some leftover 4x3" 1/4" angle to upgrade the brackets and some 2" .120 Dom and some 6" 1/4" plate and I have some extra 5/8" grade 8 bolts that I think I will use so this should be a stout unit im about 80$ into it for the steel and bolts I will get some measurements and entire thing can be built with just a few tools vise grips,angle grinder a drill and welder

 

[ChuckN]

Will it rev clean in park/neutral?
What converter and trans?
Just my opinion but you're missing 3 or more degrees of timing with those heads

The stall is too tight and stock. That’s for sure.

Three degrees? Which direction?

I called Edelbrock and they told me to put it back to ported timing, and back the advance off to 10-12 initial. Snowing and cold here, no way to test on street for a while. Mostly, I think he was just trying to get me off the phone.

Edit- yes it revs clean, but since it has no drag on it in park, I’m not sure I can really discern that.

 

[Ajax19]

Measurements so far won't know the bar length until I get the brackets on the truck

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[Rustisbest]

The stall is too tight and stock. That’s for sure.

Three degrees? Which direction?

I called Edelbrock and they told me to put it back to ported timing, and back the advance off to 10-12 initial. Snowing and cold here, no way to test on street for a while. Mostly, I think he was just trying to get me off the phone.

Edit- yes it revs clean, but since it has no drag on it in park, I’m not sure I can really discern that.

I would experiment with 3 degrees more and see how it drives when weather clears. It should raise the idle speed and allow you to close up the throttle plates to lower the idle...giving you more transition fuel. Might wind up resetting mixture screws also. If its better but you get some knock you'll have to limit the total advance with springs/weights or adding a stop. Never had anything run better on ported but every engine is different. What I do when messing with this stuff like this is write all my settings down so I can just go back to where i started if it gets worse. It's free other than your time.

Stock cam is gonna make torque right off idle where the bigger cam the torque is shifted up. A looser stall will the engine to accelerate quicker since its not loading the engine as much and let's it "flash" over the dead spot....similar to revving in neutral. Just my opinion. Sorry for the long winded response lol

 

[ChuckN]

I would experiment with 3 degrees more and see how it drives when weather clears. It should raise the idle speed and allow you to close up the throttle plates to lower the idle...giving you more transition fuel. Might wind up resetting mixture screws also. If its better but you get some knock you'll have to limit the total advance with springs/weights or adding a stop. Never had anything run better on ported but every engine is different. What I do when messing with this stuff like this is write all my settings down so I can just go back to where i started if it gets worse. It's free other than your time.

Stock cam is gonna make torque right off idle where the bigger cam the torque is shifted up. A looser stall will the engine to accelerate quicker since its not loading the engine as much and let's it "flash" over the dead spot....similar to revving in neutral. Just my opinion. Sorry for the long winded response lol

That’s a great response, I’ll give that a try. A looser converter is on the list as well.

 

[Ajax19]

Bullbar update cut and bent the new brackets made some rubber washers from some old truck tires to go in-between the bullbar and the chrome to protect and make up for the hump in the bumper tomorrow I will pull the 4 bolts and fit the brackets from there it's a few tack welds and I can cut and fit the bars

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[bucket]

Bullbar update cut and bent the new brackets made some rubber washers from some old truck tires to go in-between the bullbar and the chrome to protect and make up for the hump in the bumper tomorrow I will pull the 4 bolts and fit the brackets from there it's a few tack welds and I can cut and fit the bars

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Those Widetrack Baja AT's are pretty old. I haven't seen any in a number of years.

 

[Ajax19]

They where on the dually when I got it I don't think they had a date code pretty old set the tread started wearing out super fast surprisingly the rubber is still pliable wouldn't be a proper build if I didn't use some junk I had laying around lol @bucket

 

[JamesSam]

On our 87 silverado (two 20's) the senders are pretty much between the cab and bed. So far, pulled down and fixed drivers. Whew doggies!

My trucks sending units are somewhat visible looking in between the bed and cab. Shortbed, 16 gallons. Not exactly-directly straight down in the gap but they are definitely not under the cab.

 

[JamesSam]

I have never removed a catalytic converter. My trucks cat is mid frame drivers side. It is directly after each pipe from the exhaust manifolds join to feed in to it and then after the cat the pipe Y's out to each side exit at the end of the bed. The cat is joined in between both sets of pipe by the u bolts you can see in the pic. My first thought process is to undo the nuts on the u bolts on both sides of the cat , then try to gently knock the cat loose, back and forth shove until I can pull it down from entrance and exit pipes.
What can I expect here? Should this go as I am imagining or will it be more difficult? Will I have to remove more of the exhaust? I am planning to disconnect the battery. Will I have dash codes after re-connect? Anyone with a similar cat experience please chime in.

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Reminder that I am removing the cat to get access to drivers gas tank brackets and while I have the cat out, if it is not completely destroyed inside, I want to soak it in dish soap overnight to unclog while I drop the old tank and paint the new tank.