What have you done to your square lately??

[tater dog]

I bought a NOS off EBay and upon taking it out of the package, the needle snapped off. Thankfully I didn’t spend much- but I was able to cobble one good one together with both parts. Man, they are delicate!

Ugh that sucks . They are only about $30 but I already had two working ones , just both needles missing

 

[Grit dog]

Prior to above....these are the dually kit spacers.

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@AyWoSch Motors
Yeah from an engineering perspective that dually kit is more show than go.
Stability? Yes.
But those outer wheels won’t take a lot of load and not “move” a little imo.
Makes for a cool unique look though.

 

[82sbshortbed]

This should point you in the right direction. You can see the cable with the mounting bracket/bolt hole that bolts to the steering column part that turns when you pull the shift handle, right? Ok, underneath the tachometer, you’ll see a piece moulded into the blue/green plastic. That is the part that the cable slides through and acts as a pulley/guide. Then there should be a fairly obvious place on the steering column where the clip bolts to, and at least on mine, I was able to adjust it back or forth to line up the shift indicator needle for where it needed to be relative to the gear it was in.

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I like this cluster set way better than mine! Rather have the big tachometer and small fuel gage.

 

[ChuckN]

I like this cluster set way better than mine! Rather have the big tachometer and small fuel gage.

I highly recommend it! Pretty easy install too. If you’re looking for a higher rev count, I think LMC had a tach that goes up to 7k with the yellow and red warning lines if I’m not mistaken.

 

[bucket]

Guess these pointers on the gear selectors break off easy . Used a pen top to replace an otherwise working part .

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Looks like the cap for a Super 8 or a Days Inn pen.

 

[Ajax19]

Been working on the Jeep and the truck is about to get some more steel I have a idea to possibly hide the bars behind the stock bumper to keep the look while adding some beef kinda a cross between a cucv brush guard and a steel tube bumper, tubes are 2x4 and 4x4 3/16 some 3" channel upright bars and 2x2 top bar

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[tater dog]

Looks like the cap for a Super 8 or a Days Inn pen.

No comment

 

[ChuckN]

@82sbshortbed this one’s for you. I like the tach. If you turn up the volume, you can hear the new Flowmaster 40s. Just make sure you ignore the cracked windshield I haven’t gotten to yet.

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[DoubleDingo]

Replaced the old vacuum canister, which I assume is the factory unit, with a new NAPA vc1852. I checked the old one, it comes in at 5Hg and is fully advanced at 15Hg, and it does actually hold vacuum. That means I had more vacuum leaks than I thought I did. The new one comes in at 6Hg and is fully advanced at 10Hg. This morning experimented with vacuum hose routing.

 

[Catbox]

Ordered a new mini starter for it from Rock Auto.
The one I ordered is for a 1995 1/2 ton truck with the 5.7, but the same one is for the 7.4.
No problemo as we all have Chevorlets and the parts interchangeability is awesome.

The one on it now is from the junk yard and the solenoid decided to get sticky.
Max had to beat it with a hammer at the store to get it to start.
So for the grand sum of $73 shipped to my door, I will have one.

It is a Wai Global unit and has a 12 month warranty on it.

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[Camar068]

started looking at 2" filler necks for the bed to replace the F*rd (floating in a hole in the bed lol) filler neck. Any suggestions to flatten out the ribs around the hole in the bed? Be cool if there was some strong steel adapter you bolt up thru the hole and run an impact to flatten it out to 2 1/2".

 

[PrairieDrifter]

started looking at 2" filler necks for the bed to replace the F*rd (floating in a hole in the bed lol) filler neck. Any suggestions to flatten out the ribs around the hole in the bed? Be cool if there was some strong steel adapter you bolt up thru the hole and run an impact to flatten it out to 2 1/2".

Two heavy chunks of steel and some all thread through the middle. Hell, you could just use a regular large bolt. And a large breaker bar.

 

[Ricko1966]

@PrairieDrifter @Camar068 the problem with trying to smash the ribs flat is flat the metal is to big for the space you want it to occupy. Let's say you just want to smash 1 rib say it's 2 inches wide 1/2 inch tall.That's 3 inches of material,it will not fit in a 2 inch spot. There is going to be cutting and welding involved. I'd cut my hole in my bed and weld a flat sheet metal bridge across the ribs. That's where the filler will be the middle of the bridge, On the ends of the bridge pie cut fingers on the bridge to bend down into the recesses a gradual taper instead of a 90 would look good.

 

[Mr Clean]

started looking at 2" filler necks for the bed to replace the F*rd (floating in a hole in the bed lol) filler neck. Any suggestions to flatten out the ribs around the hole in the bed? Be cool if there was some strong steel adapter you bolt up thru the hole and run an impact to flatten it out to 2 1/2".

I would get a piece of old bed. Cut out a chunk and weld in a raised section. That way the floor is even at that spot. You could use a flush mount filler neck.

I could send you a piece of bed if you wanted to go that route. Just pay the shipping.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Took it to drop off the water bill at city hall night drop box. On the way home I stopped at the light and belt started squeeking. Couple of revs and it stopped. Got it home parked it.

Open the hood last night and guess what?

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It threw the fcking belt because the alternator was locked up. Wtf it's brand new! I think it was my fault tho. I had to switch out the pully and tightened it too tight. I had to back off the nut a bit because it wouldn't turn. I've looked for receipt but haven't found it yet. My luck. But have old one and it still works. So fir now I'll get a new belt and put old one back on for now.

I'll be careful not to get it too tight this time. Is there a torque setting for these I wonder?