What have you done to your square lately??

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JamesSam

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I started snipping wires out and removed the old switch connector. Started stripping the plastic from new wires, then my kids got home from school and my son and I had a date at the new skatepark. I had to pause. Tomorrow I will likely get started before everyone wakes up. Has anyone had to do this with their power windows? I am just not familiar with splicing wires. This connector came with 6 connecting tubes and it seems pretty self explanatory but I also worry I could screw up something relatively simple. Is every strand of copper wire absolutely necessary or would it be ok if a few were snipped off or folded to the side? Getting the exposed wire in the connecting tubes is a little more intricate than I was anticipating. Still feeling optimistic...:emotions34:
 

PrairieDrifter

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I re-mounted my pump this morning. Now it’s right at the bottom of the tank, but not sticking down below it. The new bracket has an offset in it to move the pump back away from the differential. Lowered it down to verify I had plenty of clearance before tightening everything up. Almost looks like I bolted it to the tank but have about 1/2” clearance between the tank and the bolts that hold the pump.

Last step will be to sleeve and secure the wiring and then this project is done!

Thanks for the feedback on pump elevation. I had read this but then became focused on just finding a place for it that completely forgot its supposed to be near the bottom of the tank. So, you caused me a sleepless night but likely prevented future pump problems so I’ll call us even. :laughing1:

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Hell yeah! You got that done quick lol. At least the suburbans were basically meant for that setup. I hope we BOTH don't have any more fuel pump problems :rofl:
 

Ricko1966

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Oldbear42

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I did a couple things to it. One I am not exactly proud of but it's only temporary.

I installed a saddle blanket seat cover. It actually matches pretty well. I am ashamed to admit that I like it. I always figured that these things were for rednecks that were too broke to have their seat properly re-covered. That is actually sort of almost true here...

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I purchase 4 to 6 trucks every year for work. We install seat covers (or have the dealership do it) right from the start - over brand-new seats. This means the OEM fabric will be in good shape when we sell it.
 

Grit dog

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Working on painting the rear drums and wheels.
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Great idea using visqueen around the rims. I always use tape and it look like sht when I’m done!
 

Grit dog

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I started snipping wires out and removed the old switch connector. Started stripping the plastic from new wires, then my kids got home from school and my son and I had a date at the new skatepark. I had to pause. Tomorrow I will likely get started before everyone wakes up. Has anyone had to do this with their power windows? I am just not familiar with splicing wires. This connector came with 6 connecting tubes and it seems pretty self explanatory but I also worry I could screw up something relatively simple. Is every strand of copper wire absolutely necessary or would it be ok if a few were snipped off or folded to the side? Getting the exposed wire in the connecting tubes is a little more intricate than I was anticipating. Still feeling optimistic...:emotions34:
Dude you got it. Right wires spliced together, well crimped splice and no bare wire exposed is 90% of the procedure.
Did it come with solder tubes or do mean it came with crimp connectors and maybe some shrink tubing?
Either way unless the connectors are also heat shrink I’d heat shrink all the splices for water resistance. Because inside the door gets wet.
If you lose a few individual strands that is not an issue. Think of it this way. You’re making an extra large wire at the splice. So the length of lesser gauge wire (missing strands) is basically zero. And heat/resistance is a function of length of wire.
Good luck. I gotta tear the door back open on the 77 and replace the window motor. Not looking forward to it. Been procrastinating it and now the weather is cooling down so maybe I can wait til next year…lol.
Are your connector plugs wore out or broken? Just wonderin why they need replaced.
 

Grit dog

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I purchase 4 to 6 trucks every year for work. We install seat covers (or have the dealership do it) right from the start - over brand-new seats. This means the OEM fabric will be in good shape when we sell it.
Great idea with work trucks fo sho. The company I work for now does that. And I seen it with the oilfield rental trucks.
 

JamesSam

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Dude you got it. Right wires spliced together, well crimped splice and no bare wire exposed is 90% of the procedure.
Did it come with solder tubes or do mean it came with crimp connectors and maybe some shrink tubing?
Either way unless the connectors are also heat shrink I’d heat shrink all the splices for water resistance. Because inside the door gets wet.
If you lose a few individual strands that is not an issue. Think of it this way. You’re making an extra large wire at the splice. So the length of lesser gauge wire (missing strands) is basically zero. And heat/resistance is a function of length of wire.
Good luck. I gotta tear the door back open on the 77 and replace the window motor. Not looking forward to it. Been procrastinating it and now the weather is cooling down so maybe I can wait til next year…lol.
Are your connector plugs wore out or broken? Just wonderin why they need replaced.
I thought it was the power window motor after trouble shooting so I found one in stock at Advance bought it only to find a wire completely severed leading in to the connector switch. So probably not the power motor but rewiring needed. I ordered a connector switch that I could wire in and replace.
 

JamesSam

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So I got all the wires snipped and stripped. Was trying to summon the SQRBDY power...
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Then spliced in the new connector switch(God, I hope it works) in to the door wires. I forgot to snap a pic of this. After that I began trying to get my new motor mounted to my new regulator and the bolt holes did not line up exactly on the new regulator. The old regulator goes back in now. I forgot to snap pics of this also. I will post more tomorrow or Monday or Tuesday.
 

Blue Ox

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Great idea with work trucks fo sho. The company I work for now does that. And I seen it with the oilfield rental trucks.

Same here. We put a seat cover on ours from almost day one. Except for a seam split the original upholstery is perfect.

When the truck gets redone it's getting fabric upholstery.

And a seat cover.
 
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JamesSam

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VA
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Sam
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1987
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Silverado V10
Engine Size
5.7 L 350 v8
So I got all the wires snipped and stripped. Was trying to summon the SQRBDY power...
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Then spliced in the new connector switch(God, I hope it works) in to the door wires. I forgot to snap a pic of this. After that I began trying to get my new motor mounted to my new regulator and the bolt holes did not line up exactly on the new regulator. The old regulator goes back in now. I forgot to snap pics of this also. I will post more tomorrow or Monday or Tuesday.
Also, I had to puase here again to take care of other things. Kind of annoying but taking it step by step...
 

bunkclimber

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just joined the forum here, Ive been into the US military variant 1984-85 Chevy K-30's (CUCV) squarebody pickups for some time now..I have a stubborn '84 K-30 that has been sitting for 15yrs with no engine,trans or transfer case..got all that rebuilt with a custom 350/TH400/NP205. Issue after issue with electricals from sitting so long, relays stuck, wiring hacked,connection corrosion and tons of issues but making my way thru them..Im sure Ill be using this forum often as I make my way thru it..thanks to all
 

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