Voltage issues

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AuroraGirl

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This is normal. You should always hit the pedal to set the choke on a quadrajet. That will also give it some gas before hitting the key. The carb should hold fuel between start-ups, but it can leak out of evaporate during extended periods of sitting.

There is nothing in the carb that will shoot fuel just because you hit the ignition.
good catch I completely spaced setting the choke. I just assumed he knew that and it was an additional step he took lol.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I mean starting it once warm, I always press it for first crank to set choke. But I shouldn’t have to set choke after I’ve drove it and just shut it off ten seconds prior
 

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I mean starting it once warm, I always press it for first crank to set choke. But I shouldn’t have to set choke after I’ve drove it and just shut it off ten seconds prior
That's true. You shouldn't need to hit the gas when trying to restart it immediately after shutting it down.

Something's not tuned right. Timing or carb could be responsible.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I have no way of currently checking timing, the timing tab is destroyed it’s flattened against front of block. Carb is supposedly freshly rebuilt and I admit it’s the cleanest out of all my vehicles and I’ve tuned on it enough now that it opens the secondaries without issue. Sorry I couldn’t respond to everythint I’m at work. I’ll try to reread everything I just knew I needed to specify it wasn’t a cold start
 

iamtherealJayy

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@AuroraGirl ill check the tank, the pump had two rubber(tank?) and a metal line(to carb) I’m running 8° but I had vacuum advance on manifold, I check mechanical timing and it made it change but when I reconnected the vacuum advance it didn’t change (20inhg at idle)
 

iamtherealJayy

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Im
Home now, I can see atleast 2 lines on the tank, a larger and a smaller. Since I’m home now I can answer questions faster and get photos
 

AuroraGirl

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@AuroraGirl ill check the tank, the pump had two rubber(tank?) and a metal line(to carb) I’m running 8° but I had vacuum advance on manifold, I check mechanical timing and it made it change but when I reconnected the vacuum advance it didn’t change (20inhg at idle)
Vacuum advance doesnt do anything at idle
 

AuroraGirl

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I mean starting it once warm, I always press it for first crank to set choke. But I shouldn’t have to set choke after I’ve drove it and just shut it off ten seconds prior
its sounding like fuel pressure to me
 

iamtherealJayy

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@AuroraGirl on manifold vacuum it should pull timing should it not? Since vacuum is at the highest at idle and at cruising? Too much or not enough fuel pressure? It’s got a new factory fuel pump.
 

AuroraGirl

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@AuroraGirl on manifold vacuum it should pull timing should it not? Since vacuum is at the highest at idle and at cruising? Too much or not enough fuel pressure? It’s got a new factory fuel pump.
my bad, Youre right, I was thinking ported. You said manifold. Yes, at idle you should see some advance. Get a vacuum pump and see if you can apply the canister. maybe its stuck or maybe the hose is collapsing?
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ll hook up my vacuum bleeder tool thingy tomorrow and see if anything happens, I know when I reconnected it the timing didn’t change. There’s no vacuum leak so the diaphragm isn’t blown out it’s just not pulling timing
 

AuroraGirl

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@AuroraGirl on manifold vacuum it should pull timing should it not? Since vacuum is at the highest at idle and at cruising? Too much or not enough fuel pressure? It’s got a new factory fuel pump.
I am still wondering about your return line situation?
You must be registered for see images attach
 

iamtherealJayy

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That’s what the pump look like, two rubber lines and a hard line tank had atleast two visible, a larger and a smaller. I have the steering column apart in the 76 it is currently not driveable but I can start it etc(turn signal switch replacement)
 

iamtherealJayy

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Since I’m not positive if this truck has been shown or not, here’s some photos with the new wheels and tires I just got. 15x12’s with 32x11.50x15.
 

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