This is a coolant leak right?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
I just want to verify this is the radiator leaking coolant. I drained coolant and ran a system cleaner. Drained again. Replaced both hoses, radiator cap, and thermostat (195F). Refilled with fresh coolant and ran until no more bubbles, about 30 min. Took a quick 5 min trip and popped the hood. I’m assuming this means I need to replace the radiator. If so, what are the best brand options? How do you tell if what you have is original?

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,751
Reaction score
18,197
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
That's what it appears to be. Find a repudable radiator shop near you, drain and save your new fluid and pull the rad yourself. You'll save a ton of $$ on labor.
Personally, I despise aluminum radiators and prefer brass.
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
That's what it appears to be. Find a repudable radiator shop near you, drain and save your new fluid and pull the rad yourself. You'll save a ton of $$ on labor.
Personally, I despise aluminum radiators and prefer brass.
Okay thanks for confirming. Oh I would plan to swap it all myself…what is the radiator shop going to do, fix this one? Where do u find a good quality radiator that isn’t aluminum?
 

fast 99

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
2,029
Reaction score
2,936
Location
Spokane, Washington
First Name
Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
That's what it appears to be. Find a repudable radiator shop near you, drain and save your new fluid and pull the rad yourself. You'll save a ton of $$ on labor.
Personally, I despise aluminum radiators and prefer brass.
Other than an originality standpoint why do you dislike aluminum rads? From what I have seen they transfer heat much better.

There used to be around 10 radiator shops in this area. Now were down to 1. Getting radiators fixed and sourcing cores isn't cheap or fast.

OP, appears it may be leaking at the header and will need a core. Hopefully I am wrong and all it needs is resolder of the tanks. I was able to recore a 70 Mustang radiator a few years ago. The shop wouldn't guarantee it because of all the small tank cracks from age. I was also unable to find a copper brass rad for an 85 SB 2 years ago.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Meh.
I loathe the fact we must have this discussion. Please don't get me wrong - I think the factory did it right but this is 2024 and things change??

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

In my experience, there came a time when I made a conscious decision to become more willing to go with the flow.

That applies heavily to Classic trucks :imo:

Sure you MAY BE ABLE TO get your old ass radiator rebuilt but at what cost? How long do you want or have go spend doing it?
Ya like playin mechanic a bunch do ya?

Look. There may come a time when you decide to choose your fights more wisely. It's very simple, quick, and easy to run to the store and bring home another unit then install it before supper and it'll probably have a warranty.
Probably in stock.

I had such trouble getting my oe part repaired I got a plastic one and didn't look back. Hope this helps. Sure, I could have forced it.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 
Last edited:

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,751
Reaction score
18,197
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
Okay thanks for confirming. Oh I would plan to swap it all myself…what is the radiator shop going to do, fix this one? Where do u find a good quality radiator that isn’t aluminum?
Corrosion. No offense to @fast 99. I've seen more on aluminum than brass. Types of anti-freeze, no anti-freeze? I don't know.
A radiator shop will pressure test it to find the leak, tell you whether or not it is repairable; if so they can boil it, rod it out, fix the leak, pressure test it again and paint it.
 

fast 99

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
2,029
Reaction score
2,936
Location
Spokane, Washington
First Name
Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Corrosion. No offense to @fast 99. I've seen more on aluminum than brass. Types of anti-freeze, no anti-freeze? I don't know.
A radiator shop will pressure test it to find the leak, tell you whether or not it is repairable; if so they can boil it, rod it out, fix the leak, pressure test it again and paint it.
Interesting, do you suppose part of that could be from numerous electrons passing to and from nearly every part of later vehicles that have OEM installed aluminum rads? Just a thought.

Haven't seen to many rotted out cores. More often tanks either denature from excessive heat
[low coolant] or tank seals themselves leak.

Had one case where a 93 GM truck was rotting out heater cores [aluminum] in a month. After 3 of them [flushes each time] added a ground. Ran wire through the same opening as the hose, grounded to the firewall. Never had another problem with it.
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
Corrosion. No offense to @fast 99. I've seen more on aluminum than brass. Types of anti-freeze, no anti-freeze? I don't know.
A radiator shop will pressure test it to find the leak, tell you whether or not it is repairable; if so they can boil it, rod it out, fix the leak, pressure test it again and paint it.
And what does something like this cost….also how do I tell if u even have an original radiator? How do u measure what you have installed. Mine is the 3-row version inside
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,751
Reaction score
18,197
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
And what does something like this cost….also how do I tell if u even have an original radiator? How do u measure what you have installed. Mine is the 3-row version inside
That is a question best answered by the shop. All I can suggest is that you not lose the rubber mounts and if possible, replace them. I don't think the shop can help you there. I suggest you check out LMC.
 

82sbshortbed

Fuckemall!!
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Posts
15,828
Reaction score
53,159
Location
SE Texas
First Name
Doug
Truck Year
1982, 1984
Truck Model
1500 shortbed, 1500 longbed
Engine Size
454, 305
If you can find the leak yourself there's some radiator puddy I got from Walmart or parts house that works really well. I put it on the 82 and it has held up well. I was gonna buy a new one but tried that first and it's help up ever since. Just another option for you. I'll take a picture of it when I get home if you want me too.
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,450
Reaction score
8,688
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
Corrosion. No offense to @fast 99. I've seen more on aluminum than brass. Types of anti-freeze, no anti-freeze? I don't know.
A radiator shop will pressure test it to find the leak, tell you whether or not it is repairable; if so they can boil it, rod it out, fix the leak, pressure test it again and paint it.
Corrosion. No offense to @fast 99. I've seen more on aluminum than brass. Types of anti-freeze, no anti-freeze? I don't know.
A radiator shop will pressure test it to find the leak, tell you whether or not it is repairable; if so they can boil it, rod it out, fix the leak, pressure test it again and paint it.
Aluminum radiators will destroy themselves if they become a battery, yes they do this. Put a positive lead from a multimeter into the radiator and ground the negative lead to battery. Check for voltage,engine running,loads on, headlights,heater blower etc. Shouldn't be any, I am not sure if the antifreeze becomes acidic or not but stands to reason it would. Anyway it's something to check. They also like to have a sacrificial rod in them,just like a water heater,so the sacrificial rod gets eaten instead of the radiator. Look up water heater sacrificial rod and read about it,it's usually the difference in a longer warrantied water heater,2 sacrificial rods instead of one. Thanks for reminding me I should probably change mine as maintenance.

Aluminum radiators will destroy themselves if they become a battery, yes they do this. Put a positive lead from a multimeter into the radiator and ground the negative lead to battery. Check for voltage,engine running,loads on, headlights,heater blower etc. Shouldn't be any, I am not sure if the antifreeze becomes acidic or not but stands to reason it would. Anyway it's something to check. They also like to have a sacrificial rod in them,just like a water heater,so the sacrificial rod gets eaten instead of the radiator. Look up water heater sacrificial rod and read about it,it's usually the difference in a longer warrantied water heater,2 sacrificial rods instead of one. Thanks for reminding me I should probably change mine as maintenance
 
Last edited:

malibuman402

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2015
Posts
45
Reaction score
40
Location
nc
First Name
Larry
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C10 Silverado
Engine Size
BB 402+.060 = 413.8CI
try champion radiators, worked for me. and maybe a 180 thermostat.
 

72velle

Junior Member
Joined
May 19, 2019
Posts
25
Reaction score
31
Location
29910
First Name
Kevin
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
OK, if you have an old parts store in town just drop by and see what they have in stock. Costs you nothing but your time. The radiator in my 72 Chevelle started to give me problems. I called the local parts store that had been around forever and they had a brand new, heavy duty radiator in stock for $120. Pulled the old one and replace it by myself while my leg was in a cast. Best $120 i spent on that car.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Look I'm not talkin chit (much) but you could have fixed it that day - A WEEK AGO.
Ye olde radiator repair shoppe and them "good olde days" are long gone even though the truck remains.

You're the only guy that is gonna make it easy on you..tryin to help. :shrug:
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,164
Posts
950,695
Members
36,277
Latest member
chevyBlu
Top