Sorry. Another Charcoal Canister Question

[Big Chip]

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1A and 2A get teed together and go to a ported/timed vacuum source
2A and 2B get teed together and go to the manifold vacuum shared with the pcv
3A and 3B go to the tanks

if you are using a carb with the bowl vent
4A goes to manifold vacuum can be teed into 2A 2B
5A goes to the bowl vent

if not using a carb with a bowl vent cap off 4A and 5A

Did you mean to say 1A and 1B are teed and connected to timed vacuum?

 

[C10MixMaster]

Did you mean to say 1A and 1B are teed and connected to timed vacuum?

oops yes , just corrected that

 

[Big Chip]

oops yes , just corrected that

I assumed that’s what you meant and I hooked all that up on Friday. Thanks again!

 

[Catbox]

I have the two canisters as well.

Is it possible to remove one from the system and just run everything off one canister?

 

[C10MixMaster]

I have the two canisters as well.

Is it possible to remove one from the system and just run everything off one canister?

my 77 only has one canister and dual 16 gallon tanks and works fine . two canisters give the system more capacity for bigger gas tanks. You will see labels on some emissions tags giving the maximum fuel tank capacity for the canister size. So to your question probably yes but possibly no. If you are running dual large 20 gallon tanks I might consider keeping both of the canisters.

 

[Catbox]

Good point.
I will have to look at the emissions tag to see.
Perhaps I will just clean up all the line mess that makes them work.
Eliminate all the redundant tubing to make the cleanest routing I can.

We are in the process of moving stuff all around in the engine bay to make room for a new radiator puke tank that feeds it back into the radiator.
A previous owner has bastardized the one on the truck, so we picked out a new one at the junkyard.

In the photos you can see all the tubes running across the engine to the drivers side where the canisters are. I am pretty sure all the loose connections are not a great thing for the engine.

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[Joshua Keith]

I did this exact setup, but now the engine bogs down when I hit the gas. So ported vacuum seems to be the issue. Is it sucking fumes into the ported vac? I don’t really know where to go from here

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For your application
#4 is a vent to open air , a filter like a fuel filter would help keep dust n crud out of the canister
#5 to the tanks
#6 #7 should be capped (#6 has to be capped or it will vent vapors to the engine compartment)
#8 goes to timed ported vacuum
#9 goes to manifold vacuum (pvc/purge port)

 

[C10MixMaster]

I did this exact setup, but now the engine bogs down when I hit the gas. So ported vacuum seems to be the issue. Is it sucking fumes into the ported vac? I don’t really know where to go from here

it's not sucking fumes into the ported vacuum unless the valve is bad, you should be able to pull and hold a vacuum on #8. #8 opens the valve and the vapors vent through #9 into the engine. I can only speculate on the bog. Possibly the can is saturated from not being hooked up to the carb and is now causing a rich condition when purging? If that the case the bog might just go away with use. My other thought would be to richen or lean the idle mixture and see what effect that has on the bog.

 

[AuroraGirl]

anyone think any old gm canister from the time would work/still be good? I have 3 carrs with canister just rotting away, id like to put one in my truck. obv plumb it correctly but maybe i should buy a new one?

 

[AuroraGirl]

anyone think any old gm canister from the time would work/still be good? I have 3 carrs with canister just rotting away, id like to put one in my truck. obv plumb it correctly but maybe i should buy a new one?

i should add i have 4, technically. 1 is a electrically operated one out of an 88 lesabre, but the rest are vacuum.