Scores from DIY Parts Yards, Pull A Part, U Pull It etc

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78C10BigTen

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I went to the you yank it yesterday in search of an alternator for my gfs traverse. I found 2 and bought both. Autozone wanted $160 + a $60 core!! I got 2 for $50!! plus got a real nice full sweep gauge cluster for my s10! I was super excited about that! Plus on a side note i got the barn door strikers that @TubeTruck was looking for!

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AuroraGirl

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But what I bought for me was a set of small block valve covers.
They were in a small block converted 1985 Jaguar.
Somebody pulled them off the engine and just laid them there....
$12 whole dollars for the pair.
Just need some cleaning.

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i need to find me this salvage yard. I wish our area had more u-pull-it yards. The only one in any remote distance thats reasonable doesnt have a huge yard and Im not giving that clown any business, hes a joke and so is his behavior. Smh cant convince me hes older than 3.
 

AuroraGirl

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I went to the you yank it yesterday in search of an alternator for my gfs traverse. I found 2 and bought both. Autozone wanted $160 + a $60 core!! I got 2 for $50!! plus got a real nice full sweep gauge cluster for my s10! I was super excited about that! Plus on a side note i got the barn door strikers that @TubeTruck was looking for!

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you said you found two alternators. often times on these newer vehicles, the overrunning clutch can fail and the alternator doesnt spin or spin enough or cant keep up with load and makes a good alt seem bad. IF you have them off, I would suggest testing them at an auto store and throwing a new pulley on since you have it off the vehicle. they can be replaced with regular pulleys but the design of the belt drive might inhibit it, or it may just transfer vibrations that are felt, depending on how it was made. A lot of the newer ones dont even have a tensioner... the belts are special and the the lack of a tensioner means those shock loads of high speed engine then letting off would eat the bearings of the other devices... its insane.

otherwise the one pictured looks like a modern era AD230
 

78C10BigTen

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you said you found two alternators. often times on these newer vehicles, the overrunning clutch can fail and the alternator doesnt spin or spin enough or cant keep up with load and makes a good alt seem bad. IF you have them off, I would suggest testing them at an auto store and throwing a new pulley on since you have it off the vehicle. they can be replaced with regular pulleys but the design of the belt drive might inhibit it, or it may just transfer vibrations that are felt, depending on how it was made. A lot of the newer ones dont even have a tensioner... the belts are special and the the lack of a tensioner means those shock loads of high speed engine then letting off would eat the bearings of the other devices... its insane.

otherwise the one pictured looks like a modern era AD230
This 3.6L does have a tensioner. What is an overrunning clutch? I think i know based on what i felt when i spun the alt looking for noises but im not 100%. And no the one i took off dont seem bad in terms of slop or noise when spinning but it was not charging for sure.
 

AuroraGirl

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This 3.6L does have a tensioner. What is an overrunning clutch? I think i know based on what i felt when i spun the alt looking for noises but im not 100%. And no the one i took off dont seem bad in terms of slop or noise when spinning but it was not charging for sure.
when the engine speed decreases but the alternator is spinning, while its activated and charging, would not want to slow down as quickly as the belt is. Those shock loads are traditionally taken by the automatic tensioner in, say, a square. THe overrunning clutches is when the belt is now slowing down but the alternator is still spinnin, it freewheels in the opposite direction of rotation so it doesnt put the wear on the belt/forces on the other pulleys, etc
my 2006 hyundai has one on the alternator i replaced. Its the funny looking pulley you showed
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the clutch can fail, its a mechanical device that wears, some are built better than others, but you can replace them too. If it fails in the sense your alternator pulley spins, but it doesnt turn the actual shaft, that would probably come on gradual with "slipping" and low rpm would have low output with high rpm barely cutting the cheese. They can fail like bearing seize and then no turning happens.

notice the funny aspects of the pulley compared to a normal one?

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heres a little synopsis from gates website. They have their place, and you could even put them on an old square 10si if you wanted, and frankly wouldnt be a bad idea for a AD or CS conversion with a serp belt because the brackets can sometimes be pushed past their ability from the forces and the shocks, because they are heavier, turn more mass, and when outputing at their higher ability, sudden slowing would be far surpassed even original CS130 trucks because they didnt have to withstand that stuff. Leading to misalignment and then reduced belt life, bearing life, noise, etc you know the drill. But its not as critical in a large engine even with not the best brackets. Its really noticeable when you factor in modern pulley ratios and small engines with high output alternators, the smaller engines I think usually have a smaller crank pulley or the ratio between accessory is different because of where power is made and with regards to smooth operation, and a lot of vehicles a ac compressor that is fixed displacement that cycles frequently and pulleys that dont overrun would be freqently felt in the cabin and of course there is a drive to have less and less transmitted NVH above all that even, so an AD244 being turned by a 2.2l 4 cylinder at high rpm, high output in a small crossover isnt just gonna accept slowing down without a fight lol


if i fix my park avenue im gonna look at putting one on my ad237 when i rebuild it it(bearing is wearign out, original alt tho! 1999) because with the supercharger, its easy to get belt slip and the excessive amount of idler pulleys to accomodate the 2nd serpentine belt and tensioner would prob appreciate not facing as much resistance and shocks when slowiing down, sicne the alternator is toward the higher amp side and is also at the outer edge of the belt routing, with a fair amount of wrap, I would prob extend the life of other devices. And its accessible on that engine, unlike most newer vehicles. If I need to service the clutch it can be done with a 15 mm socket and bar and the special tools to put them on without having to dismount the unit... but thats my car, not everyone would see as many gains in their application I think
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Found this guy at one of my scrap yards a few weeks ago. He was just about to grab it with the claw and crunch it. I said "hold up a minute!!", bought it for its weight in scrap. Paid the man 175$ for it, and towed it home that afternoon.
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Then found this last week at my other junkyard. Same trailer, but flat bed. Got that one for 200$.
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The I though well heck, I'm on a roll, so I bought another one from my boss. This one comes with 2 big Miller 50 generators, a crane, a fuel tank, a tool box, and 2 brand new tires. $900.
Just gotta unbury it.
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Got myself a little collection of military trailers started, hehe.
 

Catbox

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461
By the way, Junior has a birthday this week and all he has talked about is going to the junkyard.
Most of the time this weekend they have a 50% off all parts you pull from the yard.
So hopefully I will have some new junk for this thread next week.

Maybe a fresh roller short block for which to start on building a 355 for my Bel Air.
We shall see and time will tell....
 

waterpirate

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Not a score from the yard, but definately a score! I bought a snapon bottom box for 50 bucks. It is a vintage box for sure, showing her age but still functional. Anybody know f you can still get the drawer glides for these older boxes? I need six and she will be perfect. 8-167 is the glide number. I am going to chase down the snapon man on tues.
Eric
 

Doppleganger

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A few years ago, the wife and I were heading to the store. There was a semi blocking the road we normally took so I went around down another street - past the PnP. Saw the back end of an old car and did a u-turn. They just got it in - I couldn't believe what it was. Asked the fork lift driver when they were putting it out in the yard. He asked me 'when I'd like him to' (lol). I told him to give me 45 min to go get some $$ and come back. He did. My wife and I spent 4 hrs stripping this thing out. The trunk was full of new spares too. Car was so rotted it sagged in the middle. I kicked some mud on the rocker and a 3-4 ft section dropped out.

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1967 123GT. 1 of 52 ever imported to the US (mostly GI's or an occasional immigrant). We paid $380 for the parts.....got back over $7k off ebay. Most were Euro buyers restoring or wanting clones) for their own. If this car had any other badge it'd be 6 figures for the rarity alone. Dual Stromberg carbs, early uber-rare Recaro seats, gauge package, etc. This was the last pic of it after we were done. I took a pic of the VIN (hand stamped on the firewall) and sent it to a registry site that keeps track of them.

Wish I could find another one of those type of hauls.
 

CorvairGeek

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My Dad and I have found the 90s vintage GM port fuel injectors are done right around 200K miles (though the Multi-Tec 1 injectors can be even worse). The wife's '96 Century (we bought new) is now at 202K, but still running well. Got a 2 mile junkyard walk in yesterday and found an obviously elderly owned '95 Cutlass Ciera. Looked like they had pulled out in front of someone and tweaked the whole car pretty hard. It only had 51K miles on it, so I relieved the 3100 V6 of its 6 fuel injectors. My beloved U-Pull-It chain here gets only $4.72 a piece for injectors.
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CRM

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One of my daughters stopped by last week with her '06 Hyundai Sonata. She says there's loud squeeking in the front end and her SRS light stays on all the time. Said that back when she worked at a Ford dealership she had the mechanics look at it but they couldn't figure it out. After 10 minutes of searching U Tube I found out the upper control arms were causing the squeek and the passenger seat airbag sensor was recalled. Went to the U Pull It and found the updated sensor. Installed it in about an hour. SRS light is out. Control arms I got off Amazon. Those took a "little" longer.
 

Catbox

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Spent 2 days in the yard last weekend.
1st day we pulled a set of heads that @Maxwellvis will be refurbishing for his new to him 307.
2nd day, there were 2 350 engines pulled with no engine hoist.
They do not lend them out on the weekends anymore, lame.

So we used ratchet straps and brute strength to pull them from the engine mounts.
Of course that was after we stripped the entire front sheet metal off both of them.
It went pretty simply as there were 4 of us that day.
Two of us worked at pulling the sheet metal and the other two pulled the extra stuff off engines themselves.

Brian paid $148 out the door for his new to him L31 long block roller engine.
 

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Catbox

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Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
461
We sent the young ones to the local McDonalds for refreshments and then lunch later on.
The first engine we pulled out of the white one will go into Brian's White Nova that he loves.
The blue ones engine will end up in my 1954 Bel Air one of these days.
For that short block I paid a whopping $108.
I could get some back, but I am fresh out of cores.
 

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