Rims won't fit on rear with drums.

[Cyrillious]

no, my 3/4 ton is a 1980, which is 8 lug , and it has the large 13 inch drums for the 14 bolt axle

The drum in your picture, is 5 lug, I have a 5 lug drum like it on a scrap pile
I doubt there will be anything significant learned from checking for a lip, but id guess the drum is OEM because of the similaritieis here(this drum was likely taken off a truck in the 80s or 90s)

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6 lug is mine. K10

 

[Cyrillious]

A small spacer would solve your problem, but use longer studs to be safe. Those rims must be made to fit a different style drum.

I wonder if a drum like this would work? Or cheaper to have my surface lip machined down?

 

[Ricko1966]

I need to see both sides of this rim and from a little further back. To me in that Pic that looks like it's supposed to be the outside,not touching the drum.

 

[mlsceo]

That would be an easy relief of a fix however c10's are 5 studs and my k10's are 6 studs.

I was referring to the outer edges of the drum.

 

[mlsceo]

Take a wheel and a drum to your local fab shop. Let them have a look. Take one of your factory wheels as well for comparison. I won't cost you anything to have them look at it and you do not want to machine down your factory drums. Buying different drums without test fitting will very likely reveal the same issue because it's the aftermarket wheel center that is different from the factory wheel center.

 

[mlsceo]

I wonder if a drum like this would work? Or cheaper to have my surface lip machined down?

This drum appears to have the same lip, looks like the two notches are the only difference.

 

[bucket]

This drum appears to have the same lip, looks like the two notches are the only difference.

I believe the notches are there just for balancing.

 

[mlsceo]

What amazes me is the amount of wheel weights you have. Can you post a better pic of that? Something is VERY WRONG if I am seeing that correctly.

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OP, how did the fresh paint around all six wheel stud holes get so dinged up? What surface did that mounting face contact? The chipped paint on the edges of the wheel center openings are exactly what I experienced, But the mounting surface of the wheel never contacted the drum until after I trimmed back those lips between the wheel center welds.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Because of the tires there are an excess of weights. 33 12.5 R15's. To help solve the mystery

the weights should be balanced betwene the other side, take 2 of the outer ones and put them on the inside (or other side) of the rim, across from them, so they arent so far away.

And if that is what a balancer asked for, the tire needs to be match-mounted no the wheel, the low point of the wheel (usually valve stem hole but not always) to the corresponding paint mark on the new tire, if not a new tire, then just rotate the tire a decent amount from where it is now then try to rebalance, if still bad, try a third spot

 

[bucket]

the weights should be balanced betwene the other side, take 2 of the outer ones and put them on the inside (or other side) of the rim, across from them, so they arent so far away.

And if that is what a balancer asked for, the tire needs to be match-mounted no the wheel, the low point of the wheel (usually valve stem hole but not always) to the corresponding paint mark on the new tire, if not a new tire, then just rotate the tire a decent amount from where it is now then try to rebalance, if still bad, try a third spot

Normally yes, weights on both sides. But some goofballs such as myself don't like weights on the outside. Not just because of looks, but also damage to the exposed rim surface.

But, that is a lot of weight for just a 33" radial. I'm guessing a combo of a heavy sided tire and a rim that doesn't spin very true.

 

[mlsceo]

OP, how did the fresh paint around all six wheel stud holes get so dinged up? What surface did that mounting face contact? The chipped paint on the edges of the wheel center openings are exactly what I experienced, But the mounting surface of the wheel never contacted the drum until after I trimmed back those lips between the wheel center welds.

I repeat the question. Did you take a hammer to the raised areas around the stud holes thinking they were causing the issue?

 

[Redfish]

Because of the tires there are an excess of weights. 33 12.5 R15's. To help solve the mystery

I am not trying to make this worse for you but I am running 33x12.50 mud grips and they don't need that much weight. If you have that much lead on that wheel something is wrong.

 

[bucket]

I repeat the question. Did you take a hammer to the raised areas around the stud holes thinking they were causing the issue?

Likely just from contact on the wheel balancer hub. There's also evidence of a center cone used to hold the wheel on the balancer.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Likely just from contact on the wheel balancer hub. There's also evidence of a center cone used to hold the wheel on the balancer.

a wheel thats lug centric should use a lug centric mounting adapter and not a cone, i know its not nearly common because a cone is faster for people, btu that would be more accurate.

and the weight problem you brought up about the outside,you can remedy that with pound on weights on the inside but use stick on weights as close to the outside , but in the outer part of the wheel by the brakes , across from the pounded in ones.

And like I said, match mounting is a good way to get the part needing "s omuch weight" to another place on the wheel where they can balance eachother some what

 

[Bennyt]

Can't help with the rim issue but would definitely try rotating the tire to see if that helps reduce the weights or switch to airsoft beads.