Rims won't fit on rear with drums.

[Cyrillious]

no, my 3/4 ton is a 1980, which is 8 lug , and it has the large 13 inch drums for the 14 bolt axle

The drum in your picture, is 5 lug, I have a 5 lug drum like it on a scrap pile
I doubt there will be anything significant learned from checking for a lip, but id guess the drum is OEM because of the similaritieis here(this drum was likely taken off a truck in the 80s or 90s)

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6 lug is mine. K10

 

[Cyrillious]

A small spacer would solve your problem, but use longer studs to be safe. Those rims must be made to fit a different style drum.

I wonder if a drum like this would work? Or cheaper to have my surface lip machined down?

 

[Ricko1966]

I need to see both sides of this rim and from a little further back. To me in that Pic that looks like it's supposed to be the outside,not touching the drum.

 

[mlsceo]

That would be an easy relief of a fix however c10's are 5 studs and my k10's are 6 studs.

I was referring to the outer edges of the drum.

 

[mlsceo]

Take a wheel and a drum to your local fab shop. Let them have a look. Take one of your factory wheels as well for comparison. I won't cost you anything to have them look at it and you do not want to machine down your factory drums. Buying different drums without test fitting will very likely reveal the same issue because it's the aftermarket wheel center that is different from the factory wheel center.

 

[mlsceo]

I wonder if a drum like this would work? Or cheaper to have my surface lip machined down?

This drum appears to have the same lip, looks like the two notches are the only difference.

 

[bucket]

This drum appears to have the same lip, looks like the two notches are the only difference.

I believe the notches are there just for balancing.

 

[mlsceo]

What amazes me is the amount of wheel weights you have. Can you post a better pic of that? Something is VERY WRONG if I am seeing that correctly.

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OP, how did the fresh paint around all six wheel stud holes get so dinged up? What surface did that mounting face contact? The chipped paint on the edges of the wheel center openings are exactly what I experienced, But the mounting surface of the wheel never contacted the drum until after I trimmed back those lips between the wheel center welds.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Because of the tires there are an excess of weights. 33 12.5 R15's. To help solve the mystery

the weights should be balanced betwene the other side, take 2 of the outer ones and put them on the inside (or other side) of the rim, across from them, so they arent so far away.

And if that is what a balancer asked for, the tire needs to be match-mounted no the wheel, the low point of the wheel (usually valve stem hole but not always) to the corresponding paint mark on the new tire, if not a new tire, then just rotate the tire a decent amount from where it is now then try to rebalance, if still bad, try a third spot

 

[bucket]

the weights should be balanced betwene the other side, take 2 of the outer ones and put them on the inside (or other side) of the rim, across from them, so they arent so far away.

And if that is what a balancer asked for, the tire needs to be match-mounted no the wheel, the low point of the wheel (usually valve stem hole but not always) to the corresponding paint mark on the new tire, if not a new tire, then just rotate the tire a decent amount from where it is now then try to rebalance, if still bad, try a third spot

Normally yes, weights on both sides. But some goofballs such as myself don't like weights on the outside. Not just because of looks, but also damage to the exposed rim surface.

But, that is a lot of weight for just a 33" radial. I'm guessing a combo of a heavy sided tire and a rim that doesn't spin very true.