Rims won't fit on rear with drums.

[Cyrillious]

A small spacer would solve your problem, but use longer studs to be safe. Those rims must be made to fit a different style drum.

They sell oversize studs? I thought they only have the standard size for squarebodies 7/16-20's. And it would be nice if they advertised that part number for that drum too.

 

[Cyrillious]

Looks like you are putting them on backwards or the centers are welded in wrong.

I wish that was the case so I can share in the laugh with you and the others.

 

[Redfish]

What amazes me is the amount of wheel weights you have. Can you post a better pic of that? Something is VERY WRONG if I am seeing that correctly.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mlsceo]

I bought the same wheels. Test fit them before painting and had the same trouble. The wheel inner is manufactured a little differently than the factory wheels. A couple of hours with a Dremel wheel along the edges of the inner wheel openings and all was well. My truck is a 77 c10 and the wheels are 15x10. Not sure if 4x4 drums are the same as mine? Looking more closely at your pics, yes same issue. Just grind down the edges of the lips for clearance. I bought mine from Wheel Vintiques but it's the same manufacturer.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Yours has the stretched lip on the outer edge as well? Mine is a 1980 also. LOL! Wish I can machine it flush without compromising the structural integrity. I'm sure mentioning this thought will fling some angry arms in the air from some group members!

no, my 3/4 ton is a 1980, which is 8 lug , and it has the large 13 inch drums for the 14 bolt axle

The drum in your picture, is 5 lug, I have a 5 lug drum like it on a scrap pile
I doubt there will be anything significant learned from checking for a lip, but id guess the drum is OEM because of the similaritieis here(this drum was likely taken off a truck in the 80s or 90s)

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[AuroraGirl]

I bought the same wheels. Test fit them before painting and had the same trouble. The wheel inner is manufactured a little differently than the factory wheels. A couple of hours with a Dremel wheel along the edges of the inner whe

What amazes me is the amount of wheel weights you have. Can you post a better pic of that? Something is VERY WRONG if I am seeing that correctly.

You must be registered for see images attach

el openings and all was well. My truck is a 77 c10 and the wheels are 15x10. Not sure if 4x4 drums are the same as mine? Looking more closely at your pics, yes same issue. Just grind down the edges of the lips for clearance.

Good point, that is an excessive amount of weight, to the point that the weights are not able to be in the right "spot" because they are so wide, stick ons should be used, if, after match mounting, that area of the wheel cannot go without that much weight.

Also, the weights should be split on the inboard/outboard equally when adding weight to a spot, lets say 4oz is needed in one area, 2 oz on the inside, 2 oz on the outside but in the same spot

 

[Ricko1966]

I wish that was the case so I can share in the laugh with you and the others.

Okay the pic of the rim you are showing us,should be facing out.Why are you showing is that view. And @Redfish is right,what's going on with all the weights?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Okay the pic of the rim you are showing us,should be facing out.Why are you showing is that view. And @redfis right,what's going on with all the weights?

You must be registered for see images attach

I think he was showing us what kind of wheel it was (maybe not?)

 

[mlsceo]

If someone can verify that c10 and k10 drums are the same you'll be in business with the fix I described.

 

[Ricko1966]

You must be registered for see images attach

I think he was showing us what kind of wheel it was (maybe not?)

I thought he was showing us chipped paint where the wheel was contacting the drum

 

[mlsceo]

The issue is simply that the wheel centers on a factory wheel fade away between the welds and the centers on the aftermarket wheels don't. I would take pics of both to show you but I'd have to dismount a wheel, and I know my info is correct. Do you have your old wheels? Compare them and you'll see what I mean. If you don't have the means to open up clearance yourself, take the wheels and a drum to your local fab shop and they can cut those lips down for you.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I thought he was showing us chipped paint where the wheel was contacting the drum

Oh. I thought he meant the outer edge of the drum is giving him issues, my bad

 

[Cyrillious]

Oh. I thought he meant the outer edge of the drum is giving him issues, my bad

It's both. But in this case it would be easier to find a drum that will work for the rim to fit. Or hammer down those tabs where the chipped paint is hitting the drum.

 

[Cyrillious]

If someone can verify that c10 and k10 drums are the same you'll be in business with the fix I described.

That would be an easy relief of a fix however c10's are 5 studs and my k10's are 6 studs.

 

[Cyrillious]

Good point, that is an excessive amount of weight, to the point that the weights are not able to be in the right "spot" because they are so wide, stick ons should be used, if, after match mounting, that area of the wheel cannot go without that much weight.

Also, the weights should be split on the inboard/outboard equally when adding weight to a spot, lets say 4oz is needed in one area, 2 oz on the inside, 2 oz on the outside but in the same spot

Because of the tires there are an excess of weights. 33 12.5 R15's. To help solve the mystery