Rims won't fit on rear with drums.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TotalyHucked

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Posts
3,671
Reaction score
11,854
Location
Auburn, Georgia
First Name
Zach
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra 1500
Engine Size
5.3
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
 

mlsceo

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Posts
399
Reaction score
1,187
Location
Kingsburg California
First Name
Manuel
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
That's not the issue at all.
 

mlsceo

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Posts
399
Reaction score
1,187
Location
Kingsburg California
First Name
Manuel
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
Look at the pic in post#76. The wheel is 2 parts welded together, the barrel of the wheel and the wheel center. There are 4 welds that join the center to the barrel. In between the welds there are open areas. The wheel center on his new wheel is shaped a little differently than the center on a factory wheel. The factory wheel center fades away between the welds, the new one does not. See the small paint nicks about 3/8" from the end of each weld? Cutting back the raised portion of the lip between the welds provides the needed clearance. I bought the same wheels and made that simple mod, easy. Funny thing is at the time I thought about posting the issue and fix just in case anyone else ran into the same thing, I didn't, and BAM! Here we are.
 
Last edited:

TotalyHucked

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Posts
3,671
Reaction score
11,854
Location
Auburn, Georgia
First Name
Zach
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra 1500
Engine Size
5.3
Look at the pic in post#76. The wheel is 2 parts welded together, the barrel of the wheel and the wheel center. There are 4 welds that join the center to the barrel. In between the welds there are open areas. The wheel center on his new wheel is shaped a little differently than the center on a factory wheel. The factory wheel center fades away between the welds, the new one does not. See the small paint nicks about 3/8" from the end of each weld? Cutting back the raised portion of the lip between the welds provides the needed clearance. I bought the same wheels and made that simple mod, easy. Funny thing is at the time I thought about posting the issue and fix just in case anyone else ran into the same thing, I didn't, and BAM! Here we are.
Ohhhhhhhhhhh I see. Yeah that would be tedious but not terrible to remedy. It also looks like it hit the barrel of the wheel, hopefully that was just dropping it coming off or on at some point. If it's hitting the main barrel, that's a bigger problem
 

squaredeal91

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Posts
2,534
Reaction score
4,579
Location
Cave junction Oregon
First Name
Greg bush
Truck Year
1991 SB
Truck Model
K30
Engine Size
5.9 Cummins 12 valve
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
I was confused for a bit myself lol
 

mlsceo

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Posts
399
Reaction score
1,187
Location
Kingsburg California
First Name
Manuel
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
Ohhhhhhhhhhh I see. Yeah that would be tedious but not terrible to remedy. It also looks like it hit the barrel of the wheel, hopefully that was just dropping it coming off or on at some point. If it's hitting the main barrel, that's a bigger problem
No, it won't hit the barrel. And the mod isn't visible from the outside of the wheel either. Small cutting wheel on an angle grinder is the best bet. then just a little clean up. In my introductory post someone asked about my 15x10s, and I noted the mod but didn't describe it at any length.
 

Redfish

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2021
Posts
2,644
Reaction score
14,262
Location
Prairieville, LA
First Name
Andrew
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500
Engine Size
350/5.7
As it is a spacer would not work as the rim cannot get the studs through to have any threads to use.
I don't think you understand how the spacer is built. The spacer would have its own studs. The existing wheel studs use conventional lug nuts to hold the spacer onto the drum. The spacer has its own studs that you then use as you normally would.

I do not advocate using spacers when you could easily and cheaply just grind out the inner part of the new wheel. I confess that I do not understand how you have the energy to post your complaint but have no interest in using a grinder to just fix the issue with the wheels as @mlsceo has repeatedly stated will work.

We are all sorry that you paid for something that didn't fit correctly and we all want your problem fixed. This forum is very helpful and useful and you have been given some good and easy options.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,970
Reaction score
12,220
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
I don't think you understand how the spacer is built. The spacer would have its own studs. The existing wheel studs use conventional lug nuts to hold the spacer onto the drum. The spacer has its own studs that you then use as you normally would.

I do not advocate using spacers when you could easily and cheaply just grind out the inner part of the new wheel. I confess that I do not understand how you have the energy to post your complaint but have no interest in using a grinder to just fix the issue with the wheels as @mlsceo has repeatedly stated will work.

We are all sorry that you paid for something that didn't fit correctly and we all want your problem fixed. This forum is very helpful and useful and you have been given some good and easy options.
Not sure if he knows the difference between the 2 types of spacers I and others think, recommended.
Believing he does, I presume his response to spacers not working was for a thin slip over spacer not leaving enough threads to get proper engagement on the lugs. It would certainly get “some” threads as it engages at least 1/2” with no spacer.
But I also am not sure 1/4” would fix it as he never really helped with details.
Actual bolt on spacers would be fine and also safe but I think the OP wasn’t looking for solutions but rather just venting.
 

mlsceo

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Posts
399
Reaction score
1,187
Location
Kingsburg California
First Name
Manuel
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
Kind of a bullsh!t remedy after spending how much on the wheels that were "supposed" to fit?????
It's the aftermarket. Stuff happens in the aftermarket. If he had test fit the wheels before painting them, as would be normal procedure for most folks, he would've caught the issue and had the option of returning them. Case closed. Now, it's time to make the simple mod I have described. Not the end of the world.
 

idahovette

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Posts
7,269
Reaction score
15,871
Location
Weiser Idaho
First Name
Perry
Truck Year
1975-1979
Truck Model
K20-K10
Engine Size
350
OK just went thru the whole thread and @misceo ,Manuel, had the problem solved on the first page?? Why did the OP NOT go back to Summit when he found a problem....paint or no paint they should have done something about this problem? I can't find anywhere that says he has contacted them? It's STILL a bullsh!t solution to grind on new wheels when they were SUPPOSED to fit!!! It could possibly decrease the integrity of the wheel
 

Cyrillious

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Posts
139
Reaction score
111
Location
Toronto
First Name
Cyril
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K10 Suburban
Engine Size
350
I don't think you understand how the spacer is built. The spacer would have its own studs. The existing wheel studs use conventional lug nuts to hold the spacer onto the drum. The spacer has its own studs that you then use as you normally would.

I do not advocate using spacers when you could easily and cheaply just grind out the inner part of the new wheel. I confess that I do not understand how you have the energy to post your complaint but have no interest in using a grinder to just fix the issue with the wheels as @mlsceo has repeatedly stated will work.

We are all sorry that you paid for something that didn't fit correctly and we all want your problem fixed. This forum is very helpful and useful and you have been given some good and easy options.
I have other repairs that needs addressing for me to get working to drive on the road. I have alternative wheels on that I can test drive and enjoy my project for now. When I feel the urge and motivation to machine down the inner lips interfering with the fit and I get it on I will post on here.

Yes I forgot about those spacers with the built-in studs. I am not a fan of the wide stance spacers and rather keep my tires in tight unless its a minimal lug_shim 1/4"? I do not know if such a thing exists. This is my first project which happens to be a truck, 1980 GMC Suburban. I have my method of madness working on this thing. So yes this is my first rodeo, err trying to get there. It's my way of keep momentum going like a squirrel, all over the place. I hope you understand my thought process. I apologize for rambling here.
 

Cyrillious

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Posts
139
Reaction score
111
Location
Toronto
First Name
Cyril
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K10 Suburban
Engine Size
350
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
It's not even touching the housing. I was conversing with @mlsceo on the mod that needs to be done. One of them is machining down the outer lip with GM stamping of the brake drum because the inner rim is interfering it. It will clear the hub but it has clear the studs.
 

Cyrillious

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Posts
139
Reaction score
111
Location
Toronto
First Name
Cyril
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K10 Suburban
Engine Size
350
You must be registered for see images attach
after ruminating on this conversation I feel I have no choice but to help calm people's anxiousness, I decided to post a pic what it will pretty much look like on the road (minus the paper bags and green tape). I'm about 95% done. Yes this is my Frankenstein Monster of a mess with the alternative wheels I mentioned. Rough looking but it got the job done and it's back on the ground.
 

mlsceo

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Posts
399
Reaction score
1,187
Location
Kingsburg California
First Name
Manuel
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
OK just went thru the whole thread and @misceo ,Manuel, had the problem solved on the first page?? Why did the OP NOT go back to Summit when he found a problem....paint or no paint they should have done something about this problem? I can't find anywhere that says he has contacted them? It's STILL a bullsh!t solution to grind on new wheels when they were SUPPOSED to fit!!! It could possibly decrease the integrity of the wheel
Wil not hurt the wheel. it is a MINOR modification.
You guys are gonna make me go pull a wheel off my truck when it's totally unnecessary for me to do that. Again, it's a SIMPLE solution. Good golly. Yes, it SHOULD'VE fit. But it doesn't, It's the aftermarket! I fixed mine without any drama, he can too if he so chooses.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,157
Posts
950,592
Members
36,271
Latest member
jstewart7501
Top