Planning summer small block build

[Iowan]

Thanks for the advice, il defiantly get a new oil pump, didn't eve, think about it. And il be honest, I thought longer rods and shorter pistons would put the piston down deeper in the hole, but niw that you say that it makes sence that the only thing affected is dwell time. Although I'm not sure how its affected or what i stand to gain by more or less.

Il lool at 77 bearings too, ive got a little list put together of recomended companies and upgrades to do, they'll go on

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More means the fuel can burn longer.

 

[Obwonkonobe]

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More means the fuel can burn longer.

Would that then safely allow you to ruin more advance?

 

[Obwonkonobe]

Scratch my previous post, after some research I think il stick with the stock rods, since this is going into something I hope to daily on the street, I don't think the benefit I'll see at high rpm is going to justify buying new rods and pistons. However if I can't find a short block and have to buy one bare, I may revisit the subject

When you guys say 5.7 rod, do you mean a 5.7liter rod, or a literal 5.7inch rod

 

[4WDKC]

Scratch my previous post, after some research I think il stick with the stock rods, since this is going into something I hope to daily on the street, I don't think the benefit I'll see at high rpm is going to justify buying new rods and pistons. However if I can't find a short block and have to buy one bare, I may revisit the subject

When you guys say 5.7 rod, do you mean a 5.7liter rod, or a literal 5.7inch rod

5.7 inch rod... the longer rods arent for high rpm benefit, as said they hold the dwell longer and change the geometry of the angles the rod cycles through to reduce side load on the cylinders and allow the engine to last longer. It does help with performance but it also helps the block live longer.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

5.7 inch rod... the longer rods arent for high rpm benefit, as said they hold the dwell longer and change the geometry of the angles the rod cycles through to reduce side load on the cylinders and allow the engine to last longer. It does help with performance but it also helps the block live longer.

On the contrary.......a longer rod will allow for less rod lay over and less cylinder wall wear and better high rpm geometry. And damn you @4WDKC for getting me in this thread. Lol

 

[Rusty Nail]

Yep. I believe the benefit is in reduced oil temps too and it's difficult to find where all of that benefit ends. Long rods force the piston to spend more time at the top (and conversely) the bottom of the cylinder. There is a couple -a couple- of ponies there but as stated, longevity skyrockets (I believe) from decreased side loading pressures = reduced internal friction. There are many benefits to that but one is NOT primarily horsepower. Hope this helps!

@Iowan- dude i'm a fan of yours it's not my intention that you think otherwise. We're all on the same team here Brother. It's an "all for one / one for all" deal.
Your input is valuable and your presence is wanted here.

Moving on. When we speak of 5.7 rods the answer is both? Connecting rods in a 5.7L engine are 5.7 inches long. A stock cheby 350 rod is longer than a 400 rod because stroke. And they ARE longer..oh yeah!
3.48" vs 3.75". Sure they'll fit because cheby interchangeability pwns.

BUT as with the aforementioned wrist pin location differences between 350 and 400 pistons, this is something that demands attention.

Hate to see that piston peeking out the bore lol...not a lot of room up there! The ring pack locations must be considered as well as the pins.
You'd hate to get that top ring too hot!
Ch (compression height) is an important spec of a piston to consider.
But it's not like you are inventing something new.
The answers are out there. An off the shelf piston IS available. Maybe you want to shave your piston tops though...lol wtf do I know.
Ever heard of that haha?

Scat (among others) probably sells an entire rotating assembly that you can get delivered to your front door balanced already.

All we are REALLY talking about is MONEY.

I believe the standard 9.025" deck height will leave enough room to switch to 5.7 rods with the pistons already in the engine...if that's your plan, measure carefully.
Even then you'll have to put it together and see!

400s aren't famous for core shift for no reason. It could be hit or miss with any given block!
Again with the MONEY.

 

[Rusty Nail]

On the contrary.......a longer rod will allow for less rod lay over and less cylinder wall wear and better high rpm geometry. And damn you @4WDKC for getting me in this thread. Lol

Yeah....when I started readin it....i thought "oh no! What an abortion! Why am I reading this?"

Omfg. RUN AWAY! @Honky Kong jr

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[Honky Kong jr]

Yeah....when I started readin it....i thought "oh no! What an abortion! Why am I reading this?"

Omfg. RUN AWAY! @Honky Kong jr

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My exact thoughts

 

[4WDKC]

On the contrary.......a longer rod will allow for less rod lay over and less cylinder wall wear and better high rpm geometry. And damn you @4WDKC for getting me in this thread. Lol

not like you were tagged in it... maybe I should have worded it differently but my point was it will benefit his engine block in the long run to use the longer rods.

 

[4WDKC]

Moving on. When we speak of 5.7 rods the answer is both? Connecting rods in a 5.7L engine are 5.7 inches long. A stock cheby 350 rod is longer than a 400 rod because stroke. And they ARE longer..oh yeah!
3.48" vs 3.75". Sure they'll fit because cheby interchangeability pwns.

Scat (among others) probably sells an entire rotating assembly that you can get delivered to your front door balanced already.

All we are REALLY talking about is MONEY.

I believe the standard 9.025" deck height will leave enough room to switch to 5.7 rods with the pistons already in the engine...if that's your plan, measure carefully.
Even then you'll have to put it together and see!

400s aren't famous for core shift for no reason. It could be hit or miss with any given block!
Again with the MONEY.

Scat is the crank and rods I have in my 406 with forged Probe ICON pistons, The cast crank was $50 more than turning the old so I went with new, rods needed to be reconditioned so I went with new and new pistons, tanking the block, machine work, new rotating assembly assembly including ring filing, new cam set up heads/springs and port job was $2100. Start saving. Say what you want about letting someone else build your engine but if you dont have the tools and a clean environment to build your own what would you do?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

not like you were tagged in it... maybe I should have worded it differently but my point was it will benefit his engine block in the long run to use the longer rods.

I was just busting your balls man.

 

[Rusty Nail]

True.
There is no good reason to reuse 5.565 inch rods.

Srsly?

Srsly.
New parts are too cheap and plentiful.

There is no need to spend a bang either. Stock replacement type parts are adequate for power levels to like 500? horsepower?

All of that said, when you are planning, decide between 5.7 or 6.0 inch rods assuming you want to use a 3.75" stroke crank? I suggest 5.7" rods to keep a tight leash on COST.
BECAUSE if you are really going to use vortex heads, you will need the money later to do THAT.

Now all you gotta do is find a block! And have it tested...and machined.
Line-honing is your friend.


The higher you can get this number, the better your life will be.

http://spicerparts.com/calculators/rod-ratio-calculator

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Sounds like one hell of a deal @4WDKC !

 

[Iowan]

My exact thoughts

how’s that engine of yours coming along? If my memory serves me correctly 427 tall deck? Breathing through the absolutely most amazing exhaust!
I read in the old Hot Rod forum that 1.6 is an ideal ratio.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

how’s that engine of yours coming along? If my memory serves me correctly 427 tall deck? Breathing through the absolutely most amazing exhaust!
I read in the old Hot Rod forum that 1.6 is an ideal ratio.

It’s a 407 the TD is in hibernation And mine is 1.7 being it’s a big block.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

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