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Yea im starting to see a few ways to get around it a little, could I still run 87 on 9.5? Or should I step it up to 91
I've wondered about RPM ranges, some say they aren't very accurate. Someone told me to look at a 4.3 Converter. I stil get confused about these things.
You could try backing off the timing a bit, and cam selection will also make a difference.
I run my truck on 87 and it's 9.5:1
If you had two almost identical engines the only difference being camshaft profile, one that has no overlap and one that a lot of overlap. Overlap is when both the intake and exhaust valve are open at the same time and it gives it that Lopey thudding sound (the sound that makes me all warm and fuzzy inside.)
Good explanation and good read, thanks!
Haha yea pretty much, I'm hoping that by starting early and just buying parts as I go over the months, I spend a little more, go slow, and do it right, no mudding here though, I tried my hand and dug in past my axle once..
So i'm readin this thread right? Well I wasn't gonna say nothin until I got to Iowan's post up there.
Hey dude, please , please tell the class how longer rods equal more cubic inches and compression...?
Inquiring minds want to know!
(they do neither of those)
The only change is dwell.
Outside of that -OP, I believe that a new oil pump is a MUST given the chance. They are super cheap and there is no reason in your scenario to buy anything besides a Melling M55.
400 SBC siamese cylinders and Vortex heads + steam holes?
I do not know what that = but I see a flag on the field there.
There is also no good reason to run 5.65" rods though besides the fact that you MAY have to buy new pistons and then you WILL be forced to balance the rotating assembly. But there is also no good reason not to anyway and it's like changing an oil pump given the opportunity
400 blocks are special enough that it's worth it.
Soooo if you buy new rods OR use some 5.7 rods you got laying around, they'll need "rebuilt" anyway but at what cost vs. NEW rods to end up with stock 5.7 rods?? **** man, if you're gonna get new rods then you might as well get 6" rods and then YOU ARE buying new pistons.
It's a lot to think about and the amount of money you are willing to spend WILL answer many questions.
Deck the block only as much as you need to depending on the rods and pistons you plan to use to end up with a nice squish.
I run '77 bearings.
An SBC 400 makes torque without trying but there is that pesky overheat thing with the cylinder heads I keep hearing about. My machinist was telling me not to look past the fact that 400s make that gob of torque at 8.2:1 compression and combined with the whole siamese cylinder heads and the overheating thing with the steam holes that I REALLY DON'T want to push my static CR too high ESPECIALLY in a daily driven street truck because the ends don't justify the risk of the means.
My 2 cents.
Doowutchalike and i'll holler bout 'Merica!
What did you figure out @Iowan? Longer rods don't move the piston any higher in the bore, they get shorter to compensate. The pin height changes in the piston ...
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Thanks for the call out. I was wrong. Wasnt trying to be a teacher just trying to explain things and help. I'll make sure to check my facts.So i'm readin this thread right? Well I wasn't gonna say nothin until I got to Iowan's post up there.
Hey dude, please , please tell the class how longer rods equal more cubic inches and compression...?
Inquiring minds want to know!
(they do neither of those)
The only change is dwell.
Outside of that -OP, I believe that a new oil pump is a MUST given the chance. They are super cheap and there is no reason in your scenario to buy anything besides a Melling M55.
400 SBC siamese cylinders and Vortex heads + steam holes?
I do not know what that = but I see a flag on the field there.
There is also no good reason to run 5.65" rods though besides the fact that you MAY have to buy new pistons and then you WILL be forced to balance the rotating assembly. But there is also no good reason not to anyway and it's like changing an oil pump given the opportunity
400 blocks are special enough that it's worth it.
Soooo if you buy new rods OR use some 5.7 rods you got laying around, they'll need "rebuilt" anyway but at what cost vs. NEW rods to end up with stock 5.7 rods?? **** man, if you're gonna get new rods then you might as well get 6" rods and then YOU ARE buying new pistons.
It's a lot to think about and the amount of money you are willing to spend WILL answer many questions.
Deck the block only as much as you need to depending on the rods and pistons you plan to use to end up with a nice squish.
I run '77 bearings.
An SBC 400 makes torque without trying but there is that pesky overheat thing with the cylinder heads I keep hearing about. My machinist was telling me not to look past the fact that 400s make that gob of torque at 8.2:1 compression and combined with the whole siamese cylinder heads and the overheating thing with the steam holes that I REALLY DON'T want to push my static CR too high ESPECIALLY in a daily driven street truck because the ends don't justify the risk of the means.
My 2 cents.
Doowutchalike and i'll holler bout 'Merica!
What did you figure out @Iowan? Longer rods don't move the piston any higher in the bore, they get shorter to compensate. The pin height changes in the piston ...
You must be registered for see images attach
