Planning a ls swap in my 87 r10

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NCTyphoonKid

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I have been going back and forth and think this is the route I’m going to take instead of doing a crate tbi I think the ls would be more fun. I found a 5.3 complete motor for a reasonable price and already have the dirty dingo swap mounts from another square that I sold before starting that. With mine being a 87 I should just need to update the fuel pump correct? I plan on doing a stand alone harness does anyone have any recommendations on who sells a good one? Also should I try and find a good 4l60e or try and make my 700r work? Would like to keep it a more simple swap Incase in the future they become super duper rare it can be swapped back.
 

bucket

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I think an E trans would be the better way to go. You will have the modern pcm for the engine, might as well benifit from modern transmission tuning also.
 

Camar068

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with urs being 2wd, I'd sit on it a bit until I read up on the LS/6l80e swaps. You'd have to have one driveshaft cut if at all (not sure). In a 4x4 you'd have to do both I know. Imagine 6 gears.....no strung out long ass second gear.

I'd compare the crate 350 with what you have as a trans, LS and your trans, an LS/4l60e combo, and an LS/6l80e combo. Put it all on a spreadsheet with estimated cost and compare. If you can afford it, go for the LS w/6l80e. Look for engines with 80-120k miles. Seems to be where the sweet spot is on price for value.

When doing the combo's, it's normally best to purchase the engine/trans/harness/pcm that came out of the same vehicle. That way everything is already matches or is already "married" to each other.

Keep in mind you can do the harness yourself. So if one swap is only off by about $600-1,000, do the harness yourself and go up to the next level engine/trans combo. You can also pay someone locally to do your harness....prices here start at roughly $250 including a base tune on your PCM.

220k is the ballpark mileage I've read these will last without knowing how hard it was driven.

Don't forget to get the pedal, cable assemblies, and the TAC module if it's drive by wire.

You prolly already knew most if not all I mentioned.....but just in case lol. Hate to see you half way through the install and see a deal on an LS/6l80e combo cheap and regret it cuz funds are tied up.
 

Camar068

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never answered your question about the pump. Yes you'll need to change the pump on your sender, your tank should already have baffles in it (brain fart if they're called something else). But....if for some reason your going to put in a new tank, read up on the gas tank relocation with a 25/31 gallon tank under the bed. The price difference between the 16 gallon tank and the 31 gallon burb tank is only $10. You will need to get a sender for that tank though. Link below for the tank relocation.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/write-up-gas-tank-relocation.663/
 

74propu

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I did my own harness when I did my 5.3 twin turbo . It took me about 7 hours to do it start to finish . I used http://lt1swap.com/index.htm for the pin out and he dose vat and base tune for $75 . that will save you some cash for other goodys
 

NCTyphoonKid

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One thing that really just has me worried is plumbing fuel lines and the wiring side. Not so much worried about mounting and everything since I already have those parts and I’m ok with wiring as long as I have good diagrams. Never messed with the earl fittings or anything like that. Has anyone used these manifolds? Or recommend a set? I believe I’ve read somewhere that the factory truck manifolds won’t work unless you do some frame cutting and I do not want to do that
 

NCTyphoonKid

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Also not really worried about the 6 gear trans I love the 4l60 in my 2wd Tahoe it’s not skipped a beat and it’s hard finding the 6l trans near me for reasonable prices let alone newer engines
 

Jrgunn5150

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Keep it simple I always say.

Use a 4L60, or 80 since the ECM can control them, if the donor is drive by wire it's extra complicated to make a 700R4 work.

Use AC Delco EP381 for your fuel pump, use stock everything else. Adapt the lines to the 5.3 rails and done.

Once you have your donor follow the diagrams at LT1 swap.com, it's super easy when it's in front of you. It's moronically simple, all pinks go to 12v switched, orange to 12v constant, vroom, it runs.

Manifolds that I know work with no shenanigans are Trailblazer SS and 2010 Camaro.

Dirty Dingo mounts won't clear the AC compressor if you care about that.
 

ajd89

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Being a 2 wheel drive you should be able to use the Tejas mounts and keep the low mount air conditioner and not have to notch the frame
 

4WDKC

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Being a 2 wheel drive you should be able to use the Tejas mounts and keep the low mount air conditioner and not have to notch the frame

Guess that means those things have to be done to put a ls in a 4wd?
 

Jrgunn5150

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Guess that means those things have to be done to put a ls in a 4wd?

No, 4wd's are pretty drastically different. 2wd's have a big stupid crossmember.

The Tejas mounts move the engine up and forward, allows the stock LS AC truck bracket and compressor to clear the frame.

The interference is between the compressor and frame, I'm not sure if it's an issue on 4x4's or not. But either Tejas mounts, relocating it up high, or not using it all solve the problem lol.
 

ajd89

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I think for the most part the 4 by 4 guys use a dirty dingo mounts and set the engine back 1inch or 1 1/2 inchs. Then you don' have get driveshaft made. And either no air or use a high mount bracket. At least this was my plan
 

NCTyphoonKid

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I’m not fully worried about the air at the moment I just want to be able to drive it it’s been parked with no motor for several months now
 

Honky Kong jr

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I’m not fully worried about the air at the moment I just want to be able to drive it it’s been parked with no motor for several months now
I’m gonna derail for a second if I may.....post a pic of your Ty in the other vehicles section I wanna see it lol.
 

NCTyphoonKid

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I’m gonna derail for a second if I may.....post a pic of your Ty in the other vehicles section I wanna see it lol.

Here’s a recent picture just put the cowl hood on not long ago

You must be registered for see images attach
 

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