My 454 build

[74 Shortbed]

After thinking about it, it happened at idle. So it's probably not stressed at all , and it unlocked the slightest press of a pry bar

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Heck, clean it up and use it, you wouldn't believe some of the blocks I've reused, lol..

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd have the main webs magged, if it passes nothing wrong with it for general usage..

Yep. I'd mag it all but if that's all the damage I'd use it for a stock stroke peanut headed engine.

After thinking about it, it happened at idle. So it's probably not stressed at all , and it unlocked the slightest press of a pry bar

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That makes it even better. So if you don't need it, give it to someone willing to use it. If it's standard bore, someone who has a wore out .020 - .040 overbored engine can use their overbore pistons and crank, have that one magged and bored to match their pistons and run it.

I had a recent scare this past winter with very low antifreeze in my rebuilt overbored engine. Had it cracked my block, this block here would have been the hot ticket to patch it up provided the mag turned out good.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Yep. I'd mag it all but if that's all the damage I'd use it for a stock stroke peanut headed engine.

There ain't nothing wrong with that block, I'd build a 468 with 781 heads for the street with that..

 

[HotRodPC]

There ain't nothing wrong with that block, I'd build a 468 with 781 heads for the street with that..

I'd imagine it could be done. I've seen quite a bit taken out of lower ends of cylinders to clearance the block for stroker crank throws.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I'd imagine it could be done. I've seen quite a bit taken out of lower ends of cylinders to clearance the block for stroker crank throws.

Might be just the pic, but it looks to me like too much is gone for a stroker though???..

 

[HotRodPC]

Might be just the pic, but it looks to me like too much is gone for a stroker though???..

I was thinking it might be. As long as the rings have a bit of safety net and don't drop to low to fall out and the skirts don't allow a rock. Pretty sure it would safely do a standard stroke though without anything to worry about.


One way to tell, take 2 of the good rods and pistons without rings, bolt them on and rotate the crank to see how low they drop.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I was thinking it might be. As long as the rings have a bit of safety net and don't drop to low to fall out and the skirts don't allow a rock. Pretty sure it would safely do a standard stroke though without anything to worry about.

Should be plenty there for a stock stroke.

 

[HotRodPC]

Should be plenty there for a stock stroke.

I think so too. I just noticed in the pics, that one rod is stamped 1 and 1. That tells me, it's been rebuilt before. Maybe just rerung and bearinged. Might had a little something something to do why it went **** up too.

I have done rerung and bearing jobs before when the bore was withing spec, but I still plastigauged ALL the journals.

When I went through the expense of a bore and pistons, you can bet I had the crank mic'ed and either polished and or turned. And ALWAYS had the rods reconned. Shot peened, magged, checked for twist, and big end resized. It's cheap insurance considering the cost of building an engine when #1 failure for destroying a rebuild is what? A hinged rod or at least a rod knock. It's not cool playing peek a boo with your con rods out the side or bottom of a pan.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I'd wanna see the magnaflux and or dye pen test results.

 

[rumblebox]

I think so too. I just noticed in the pics, that one rod is stamped 1 and 1. That tells me, it's been rebuilt before. Maybe just rerung and bearinged. Might had a little something something to do why it went **** up too.

I have done rerung and bearing jobs before when the bore was withing spec, but I still plastigauged ALL the journals.

When I went through the expense of a bore and pistons, you can bet I had the crank mic'ed and either polished and or turned. And ALWAYS had the rods reconned. Shot peened, magged, checked for twist, and big end resized. It's cheap insurance considering the cost of building an engine when #1 failure for destroying a rebuild is what? A hinged rod or at least a rod knock. It's not cool playing peek a boo with your con rods out the side or bottom of a pan.

It was built in the 80's sometime, and it looks like. One of the rod nuts just backed out.

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[74 Shortbed]

I think so too. I just noticed in the pics, that one rod is stamped 1 and 1. That tells me, it's been rebuilt before.

Be a real rare thing today to find any of this old **** that hasn't been rebuilt at least once yet, lol..

 

[74 Shortbed]

It was built in the 80's sometime, and it looks like. One of the rod nuts just backed out.

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Either it wasn't torqued right or the bolt was starting to stretch, either way it was inevitable.

 

[vkh]

That's how my origanal motor died, nut backed off a connecting rod and my piston shattered. But I was going quite fast when it happened, probably 90-100 mph. The rod put a nice crack in my bore and that was that. My connecting rods were numbered and oil pickup welded on so I knew it was rebuilt. I figured whoever did it botched the job. And damn did I make a smoke show, scared the **** outta the guy behind me. Pulled over and had coolant dumping out of the dipstick hole. That was a bad day.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I've had them to where I just walked away with the valve covers, lol

 

[rumblebox]

Pennzoil much?

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