Mech. to Hydraulic clutch conversion?

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82_454_shorty

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I'm building an '82 Silverado and I'm putting in a Richmond T10. The truck had a stock bull low 4 speed in it so my mechanical clutch set up won't work, plus I'm going with Chevelle headers and a custom crosss member.

I'm thinking of going to a hydraulic clutch.

I can only find 1 company that sells a kit (American Powertrain).

Has anybody done this? Any suggestions?
 

HotRodPC

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I will be converting from Automatic to Hydraulic Clutch for a New Process A833, 4 speed with 4th being an OD. I've got the bell housing and transmission already. Waiting on funds to be able to go to Pull A Part and get the pedal assembly.

So what's a Richmond T10? Why won't the mechanical clutch work? Is this a 2wd or a 4wd truck?
 

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Don't buy a "kit", use stock parts. I have an illustration at home worth the proper location of the holes in the firewall to mount the master cylinder for proper geometry. I'll try to remember to post it up later.
 

HotRodPC

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Don't buy a "kit", use stock parts. I have an illustration at home worth the proper location of the holes in the firewall to mount the master cylinder for proper geometry. I'll try to remember to post it up later.

Yeah, please do post that up. I figured the firewall might be marked with a knockout or something since 85 is a year that Hydro was OE, but no, I"m not seeing it. A template of location measurements would be great.
 

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I've seen them as early as 82 with the dimples for the master cylinder mounting, in an 85, they're definitely there. I had a 79 with cutouts and even the screw holes for the 3.5" speakers in the corners of the dash... An option that didnt appear until about 84.
 

HotRodPC

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I've seen them as early as 82 with the dimples for the master cylinder mounting, in an 85, they're definitely there. I had a 79 with cutouts and even the screw holes for the 3.5" speakers in the corners of the dash... An option that didnt appear until about 84.

Then I'm probably looking in the damn wrong place. I need a good pic showing the location, but I thought I had one already. IIRC, I fired up a thread for Z bar and Hydro pics to be posted and I don't think anyone posted up pics, but it could sure be a big help for conversions, either Auto to Manual, or Z bar to Hydro.
 

82_454_shorty

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I will be converting from Automatic to Hydraulic Clutch for a New Process A833, 4 speed with 4th being an OD. I've got the bell housing and transmission already. Waiting on funds to be able to go to Pull A Part and get the pedal assembly.

So what's a Richmond T10? Why won't the mechanical clutch work? Is this a 2wd or a 4wd truck?

Thanks guys.

A T10 is like an aftermarket Muncie. Given my headers, cross member, and a remote oil filter setup, things are tight. I figured a hydraulic setup would be an easier way to go.
 

HotRodPC

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Grease Dog, Come in GD !!! Can we get that illustration location when you get a chance? For the Master Clutch Cylinder Location... Thanks


So what did you decide here Steve? Did you convert to Hydro or leave it Manual Linkage. Now that I know a bit more about your truck, if you haven't done it yet, I'd leave it manual linkage unless you have to change it. Obviously with that trans, and the motor you have, you'll be racing. If you're fast enough at shifting, believe it or not, you can be faster than the hydro fluid will flow and get air trapped in the slave cylinder. Also when clutch adjustment gets way out there, or using a tad shorter rod, you can even spit the slave piston out the cylinder, lose all your fluid, and with the piston cocked it can't go back in so you're stuck with a depressed clutch. I've done it twice on 1 vehicle. Just sayin, IMO, for racing, I think a manual clutch is quicker and more dependable. Also, the hydraulic clutches usually are not adjustable. You're going to want to be able to adjust your clutch for a nice launch.

Now sometimes, you don't have a choice, but if you do, I'd sure keep the mechanical. The hydro is good, but mechanical is better IMO.
 

RetroC10Sport

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All I've got to help with...
 

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HotRodPC

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All I've got to help with...

Damn !!! :leghump: That's all huh??? Just missing the hose and slave. Big whoop. I'd want that new anyway. The pedal pads are even in good shape. Damn !!! :drool:

I like those strut support rods to the master. Great design. I have seen firewalls blow out before. That won't happen with that design.
 

HotRodPC

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Moved to Proper Manual Trans & Clutch Category. Reset your bookmark if this was bookmarked as the addy will now change with no redirect in an hour from now.
 

82_454_shorty

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Grease Dog, Come in GD !!! Can we get that illustration location when you get a chance? For the Master Clutch Cylinder Location... Thanks


So what did you decide here Steve? Did you convert to Hydro or leave it Manual Linkage. Now that I know a bit more about your truck, if you haven't done it yet, I'd leave it manual linkage unless you have to change it. Obviously with that trans, and the motor you have, you'll be racing. If you're fast enough at shifting, believe it or not, you can be faster than the hydro fluid will flow and get air trapped in the slave cylinder. Also when clutch adjustment gets way out there, or using a tad shorter rod, you can even spit the slave piston out the cylinder, lose all your fluid, and with the piston cocked it can't go back in so you're stuck with a depressed clutch. I've done it twice on 1 vehicle. Just sayin, IMO, for racing, I think a manual clutch is quicker and more dependable. Also, the hydraulic clutches usually are not adjustable. You're going to want to be able to adjust your clutch for a nice launch.

Now sometimes, you don't have a choice, but if you do, I'd sure keep the mechanical. The hydro is good, but mechanical is better IMO.

HotRod, sorry for the long delay in responding. I just checked back in on this thread.

Thanks, that's great advice and I will stick with the manual setup. I'm no Ronnie Sox but I do plan to run this thing through the gears in a hurry :)
 

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