Lq4 swap question

[rpcraft]

Unless he has revised his mounts it used to have a note on his website specific to clearancing the front cross member so maybe he has changed it. With the motor mount all the way forward the ac compressor will clear but if your oil pan hits you can't slide it anything but all the way backwards, and if you are using a transfer case, stock cross member, and oem driveshafts, you have to slide the engine all the way back to keep all that stuff in place as well, so there you see why I mentioned it being more complicated for 4x4's. I do plan on having AC. That wasn't a show stopper for me though because I'll be using the Vintage Air setup and it uses none of the original parts and they add a high mount AC compressor (and bracket) to the setup so that is why I went ahead and kept the dirty dingo mounts

 

[dcameron787]

I used the DD mounts and they worked great. No issues. I’m 4x4 so not sure on the 2WD. I re-worked my harness based on LT1swaps site and took a few hours but was very easy.

 

[Z7master167]

My truck has a 12 bolt rear end in it, from what I've read it should be a 10 bolt? Is 12 bolt better than 10? Going to put a lsd in it and disk brake upgrade

 

[rpcraft]

My truck has a 12 bolt rear end in it, from what I've read it should be a 10 bolt? Is 12 bolt better than 10? Going to put a lsd in it and disk brake upgrade

Might be a case where someone replaced the 10 bolt before you bought it. Many will profess to it being superior but GM engineers often point out that comparatively the stock 10 bolt is actually stronger. I can't remember the reasons but sometimes people just think because something is old and original it is best. How good it is should be better determined on what you are planning to do with it. If you are just daily driving and doing things that allow for common sense use, I'm sure you will have little to no problems. If you tend to use the gas pedal like a light switch, then neither will last for long.

 

[Z7master167]

Might be a case where someone replaced the 10 bolt before you bought it. Many will profess to it being superior but GM engineers often point out that comparatively the stock 10 bolt is actually stronger. I can't remember the reasons but sometimes people just think because something is old and original it is best. How good it is should be better determined on what you are planning to do with it. If you are just daily driving and doing things that allow for common sense use, I'm sure you will have little to no problems. If you tend to use the gas pedal like a light switch, then neither will last for long.

Are you saying it wont last long stock, or it wont last long after putting in a posi?

 

[rpcraft]

I am saying if you are just driving around and doing normal truck stuff, like hauling trailers with a stock motor and not climbing rock walls. or putting in a 500 HP motor, and then going to the drag races every friday night it will be fine, regardless of posi, open, or limited slip.

 

[Z7master167]

I am saying if you are just driving around and doing normal truck stuff, like hauling trailers with a stock motor and not climbing rock walls. or putting in a 500 HP motor, and then going to the drag races every friday night it will be fine, regardless of posi, open, or limited slip.

Gotcha but how cool can you look doing a 1 wheel burnout?

 

[rpcraft]

REally cool so long as they only stand on the side that is spinning!!!

 

[Z7master167]

Who would you all recommend to send my harness to get reworked and my pcm flashed/tuned?

 

[dcameron787]

This is not an answer to your current question but wanted to Clarify my previous post on the DD Mounts. They worked great for my application as I’m running the original tranny and t-case in the stock position which makes the engine sit all the way back on the mounts. If it were to go forward it would not clear the cross member. It currently sits about 3/4” behind the cross member. I also added a 1/4” spacer on the clamshell mounts to get the motor up a bit to help with some extra clearance.

 

[rpcraft]

Who would you all recommend to send my harness to get reworked and my pcm flashed/tuned?

LSX Specialties does them (again you will have to look there on facebook). I think their price for rework is around 450 USD or so and it is top notch work. There is also Lonestar Dyno (In Spring Branch, TX http://www.lonestardyno.com/pricing.html )- The do new harnesses only for third gen LS motors, no re-works only and those are around 1000 USD. I think they are doing some rework on 4th gen still but according to Terry (the owner they are running a few weeks out on turn-arounds Frankly they are some of the best that I have seeen, likewise also available for trouble shooting and always stand behind their product. Both of those companies give you back a harness that is either new or like new and it is finished in the nice fabric style braided flex loom. Anyone that charges you less is probably going to send you your original harness back with some wires deleted and put it in nasty plastic loom, or even worse. and I am not an advocate for either company. I just went the cheap route and thought I was getting a good deal, turns out I wasn't. I'm probably going to get a new harness eventually, but for the mean time I am just using an engine cover to hide the ugly work that was done on mine, lol.

Likewise you can go to the lt1swap site and read their instructions for diy harness modification and take some time and do it for free. Once you get into it and follow the instructions you can see it is pretty easy. The hardest part is being able to depin the connectors so you can slide new flex loom over it and keeping track of the wiring. I have no patience for that kind of thing so I know when to farm out work.

 

[Camar068]

Who would you all recommend to send my harness to get reworked and my pcm flashed/tuned?

After doing my own, I'm glad I did. That way any mistakes that were made were mine. Not saying someone else can't get it right, but once you've been there, it's easier to trace stuff down because you did it...that and you can only blame one person lol. Just look at the chart and get a full understanding of what your doing, make room on the floor or a table and take your time. Save all the stuff you take out in case you make a mistake.

Honestly the hardest part is wrapping everything back up the way you want it in the vehicle. If your on any kind of budget, do it yourself the first time. Otherwise let someone else do it and risk troubleshooting afterwards.

Just my opinion

Another thing to keep in mind is where your pcm is going to be located in your vehicle. While you have all the tape n such off it, lay it out and start looming it together. I found it easier to start from the end of each ckt and work towards the pcm. I'd leave the PCM end open and ugly until your satisfied that everything is running correctly and your done troubleshooting for a long time lol.

DO NOT MISS ANY GROUND WIRES!! MAKE SURE THEY ARE ALL HOOKED UP SOMEHOW! I MISSED 5....AND STILL CAN'T SEE HOW BUT I DID.

 

[Camar068]

sorry for going on and on lol.

Anyway, after you've got everything hooked up and your ready to start it, take a meter to your PCM connectors and ohm all the grounds to make sure their good. This step would have saved a few hours on the 5 wires mentioned above.

If you don't know how to use a meter let us know. No offense intended.

 

[rpcraft]

sorry for going on and on lol.

Anyway, after you've got everything hooked up and your ready to start it, take a meter to your PCM connectors and ohm all the grounds to make sure their good. This step would have saved a few hours on the 5 wires mentioned above.

If you don't know how to use a meter let us know. No offense intended.

Good advice. I did the same thing with mine after getting it back from the hack who did my harness just to verify continuity and that there was no cross grounding.

 

[Z7master167]

LSX Specialties does them (again you will have to look there on facebook). I think their price for rework is around 450 USD or so and it is top notch work. There is also Lonestar Dyno (In Spring Branch, TX http://www.lonestardyno.com/pricing.html )- The do new harnesses only for third gen LS motors, no re-works only and those are around 1000 USD. I think they are doing some rework on 4th gen still but according to Terry (the owner they are running a few weeks out on turn-arounds Frankly they are some of the best that I have seeen, likewise also available for trouble shooting and always stand behind their product. Both of those companies give you back a harness that is either new or like new and it is finished in the nice fabric style braided flex loom. Anyone that charges you less is probably going to send you your original harness back with some wires deleted and put it in nasty plastic loom, or even worse. and I am not an advocate for either company. I just went the cheap route and thought I was getting a good deal, turns out I wasn't. I'm probably going to get a new harness eventually, but for the mean time I am just using an engine cover to hide the ugly work that was done on mine, lol.

Likewise you can go to the lt1swap site and read their instructions for diy harness modification and take some time and do it for free. Once you get into it and follow the instructions you can see it is pretty easy. The hardest part is being able to depin the connectors so you can slide new flex loom over it and keeping track of the wiring. I have no patience for that kind of thing so I know when to farm out work.

So I spoke with lsx specialties.. there are 2 of them one is out of Oregon and the other out of California.. I spoke with the California one and have yet to get ahold of the oregon one.
Do you know which one I need to get ahold of..
And sorry for all the stupid questions but I'm totally new at this