I guess I give up on the windows

[BigBob757]

My 84 has this issue also. One suggestion is to check all the electrical grounds to every thing related to the window circuits especially the door grounds to he truck.Hope this helps
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[mibars]

I'd try to connect the voltmeter in parallel to the motor and check for the voltage when the windows go up and down. If it is dropping significantly to couple of volts -> electrical issue.

How is your relay mod done? Where did you ground the relays? How did you wire the power? I just did a relay mod for a 2nd window and I'm getting away with using original pink power wire and just adding a new ground on a B pillar. It was enough to fix the window that stalled on me when using driver switches to the nice and fast both up and dow.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

I'd try to connect the voltmeter in parallel to the motor and check for the voltage when the windows go up and down. If it is dropping significantly to couple of volts -> electrical issue.

How is your relay mod done? Where did you ground the relays? How did you wire the power? I just did a relay mod for a 2nd window and I'm getting away with using original pink power wire and just adding a new ground on a B pillar. It was enough to fix the window that stalled on me when using driver switches to the nice and fast both up and dow.

I've determined it's the wire that runs between the two switches. Seems to work fine when you roll it up or down from the passenger side. I'd put it at close to factory speeds. 10.45v during operation, even with the truck not running. It's only slow (up or down) when operating the window from the driver's side. Everything is new, even the switches. The relay mod has it's own fuse box. I did everything cause I was also doing relays for the headlights at the same time. Got the manual off another site that tells you exactly which wire is for what, so that made it a lot easier.

Gonna be a good while before I feel like running a new wire between those two switches. I may wait until I hand the truck over to the shop for a medium restoration. "Here, you fix it"

 

[Redfish]

I've determined it's the wire that runs between the two switches. Seems to work fine when you roll it up or down from the passenger side. I'd put it at close to factory speeds. 10.45v during operation, even with the truck not running. It's only slow (up or down) when operating the window from the driver's side. Everything is new, even the switches. The relay mod has it's own fuse box. I did everything cause I was also doing relays for the headlights at the same time. Got the manual off another site that tells you exactly which wire is for what, so that made it a lot easier.

Gonna be a good while before I feel like running a new wire between those two switches. I may wait until I hand the truck over to the shop for a medium restoration. "Here, you fix it"

I have to ask, have you ohmed the wire from switch to switch? Is there any chance that the contacts in the driver's door switch are the problem? I would put a meter across the driver's door switch contacts and measure that resistance and I would measure the voltage exactly the same way you measured it on the passenger's side.

Regardless, you are getting closer to getting it resolved. That is Good News.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

I have to ask, have you ohmed the wire from switch to switch? Is there any chance that the contacts in the driver's door switch are the problem? I would put a meter across the driver's door switch contacts and measure that resistance and I would measure the voltage exactly the same way you measured it on the passenger's side.

Regardless, you are getting closer to getting it resolved. That is Good News.

Yeah I checked them last week when I took the driver's door panel apart. The contacts were all good except one that was full of green gunk. Not sure what that gunk is, or why it's green. I don't think the actual contacts are copper. It didn't want to roll down (at all) and cleaning that contact fixed it. Hopefully the silicone paste keeps it away. The switches themselves are new.

But yeah the antique truck is forcing me to get better at electrical. I always wanted to be really good at it.

 

[Redfish]

Yeah I checked them last week when I took the driver's door panel apart. The contacts were all good except one that was full of green gunk. Not sure what that gunk is, or why it's green. I don't think the actual contacts are copper. It didn't want to roll down (at all) and cleaning that contact fixed it. Hopefully the silicone paste keeps it away. The switches themselves are new.

But yeah the antique truck is forcing me to get better at electrical. I always wanted to be really good at it.

Boats in a saltwater environment forced me to learn electrical troubleshooting.

My bosses in my plant are trying to force me to get better at electrical. I always try to avoid work though...

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Boats in a saltwater environment forced me to learn electrical troubleshooting.

My bosses in my plant are trying to force me to get better at electrical. I always try to avoid work though...

When I was 20 I was a security guard, and I avoided a lot of work simply by avoiding the bosses! LOL

 

[Scott91370]

Yeah I checked them last week when I took the driver's door panel apart. The contacts were all good except one that was full of green gunk. Not sure what that gunk is, or why it's green. I don't think the actual contacts are copper. It didn't want to roll down (at all) and cleaning that contact fixed it. Hopefully the silicone paste keeps it away. The switches themselves are new.

But yeah the antique truck is forcing me to get better at electrical. I always wanted to be really good at it.

The green is corrosion. It'll be on the ends but unless the wire is sealed it will creep up under the insulation.

 

[emoze]

It appears the window motors ground to the door probably through the window motor body itself like a starter. On another post I told you where the most important 3 grounds are battery to body so the entire body is a ground for anything attached to it. Battery to frame so the entire frame is a ground for anything attached to it battery to engine so anything attached to the engine has a ground.Notice your starter doesn't have a ground, to the battery it grounds through the block to the battery. Notice your headlights don't have a ground wire going to the battery they ground to the body. Everything on that truck grounds through the body, the frame or the engine.

- since the window motors grd to door, the only hard connection of door to body is thru the hinges or door latch - seems like a good thing to try would be a grd wire twixt the door & body to rule out poor grd thru those aged components ?