Huck's daily - 2005 Z71 crewcab

[TotalyHucked]

Maybe cuz the front diff isn't always spinning so the bearings dry out and it's rough on them the first few seconds of engagement? Or maybe the PO used Auto4wd more than he should have? I know that's hard on the bearings. Idk...

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Another shot of some of the engagement/long side stuff

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I couldn't get the long axle to release out of the circlip. I need it out so I can replace that side axle seal. I may have to see if I can pry the circlip up onto the splines and pull it completely off

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Then I took some preliminary measurements on the side adjusters so I have a starting point there at least

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[TotalyHucked]

Couldn't hold everything and take a picture but using a straight edge got me much more reliable measurements than off the case openings

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Then drove the adjusters out with a brass drift. I didn't adjust them at all, so between eye-balling the new ones to get them close to what these are and the measurements, I should be close

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[TotalyHucked]

Driver's side race had not fallen out yet so it came with the adjuster

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Pass side race had fallen out earlier just by me setting the case on the bench

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Then drove the pinion races out with a punch. Both case halves are completely stripped at this point

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[TotalyHucked]

So now it's time to remove bearings. This is the tool Spencer (@legopnuematic ) suggested I pick up and I'm so glad he did. This is so much less sketchy than normal "bearing splitters". You figure out what clamshell combo fits best around the bottom of the bearing (this kit came with 3 different ones) and set everything in one half of it, then run the center screw shaft up high enough that the main body can sit flat on the top of the bearing.

Then adjust the lower collar until it touches the bearing (being careful not to adjust it too far and push the main body up off the bearing), then adjust the upper collar until it gets hard to move. Then go just a little more to put everything in a tad bit of tension.

Once you put the other half of the clamshell on and it's retaining collar, everything should fit in there nice and tight. This basically stabilizes everything and pulls the bearing out with no damage. This isn't a super expensive tool, but it's not cheap either. I think it was $140 off Amazon. But even if this is the last pair of axles I ever do, it more than paid for itself already, it's so easy to use.

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Once I'd done it a couple times, I found it easier to do it all standing up on the bench, but the process is the same.

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And here we have a 99.9% disassembled GM 8.25 IFS diff. I need to go get some all thread and washers to help seat the pinion races and I can start reassembly

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[Chevrolado]

Wow... you are deep into that thing ("That's what she said").

Also, don't tell me that...

Or maybe the PO used Auto4wd more than he should have? I know that's hard on the bearings. Idk...

I use mine all the time. The truck always feels more solid to drive with it on.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Wow... you are deep into that thing ("That's what she said").

Also, don't tell me that...

I use mine all the time. The truck always feels more solid to drive with it on.

Haha yeah and I've never done any of this before lol

Yeah, auto4wd is really hard on the transfer case and front axle from what I've always been told. I've used it in my old trucks a couple times and agree, it feels very hard on the truck so I never used it again. If it's snowing/icy, I just use 4hi. Otherwise it stays in 2wd unless I'm on dirt.

 

[Chevrolado]

My biggest thought was if I run it in Auto and my gas mileage drops a bunch.. I know its working extra hard. And actually, gas mileage has been totally normal. hah. So then I started thinking.. well, maybe its not bad.
And then I just read what you said. hah. Now I'm really curious..
I thought the design was that it's running in 2WD, but then once it loses traction, it engages the front. So in theory, that would mean if we're just road cruisin, it shouldnt be wearing on the front right? hah. Who knows.
Thanks for all the detailed pics on your process here.. looks like you are doing some great things. Crazy - but great.


Edit - after doing more and more google searching, general consensus out there in the interwebs is you shouldnt use Auto on dry normal conditions as it does "partially" engage things still. Its not like driving in 4HI all the time, but GM recommends only using Auto when conditions are variable and you may need 4WD.. Guess I'll stop doing that. :/ hah.

 

[Ricko1966]

I've done those bearings different. Didn't touch the adjusters, I split the diff laid the 1/2s open side down on a cookie sheet placed them in the oven,and waited until I heard the races fall out onto the cookie sheet. Turned the 1/2s over and dropped new races in that I had waiting in the freezer. That way everything is set just like it was new.

 

[bucket]

Is that the Vevor brand puller?

 

[TotalyHucked]

Is that the Vevor brand puller?

It's actually a "West Origin" but looks identical to the Vevor

 

[TotalyHucked]

My biggest thought was if I run it in Auto and my gas mileage drops a bunch.. I know its working extra hard. And actually, gas mileage has been totally normal. hah. So then I started thinking.. well, maybe its not bad.
And then I just read what you said. hah. Now I'm really curious..
I thought the design was that it's running in 2WD, but then once it loses traction, it engages the front. So in theory, that would mean if we're just road cruisin, it shouldnt be wearing on the front right? hah. Who knows.
Thanks for all the detailed pics on your process here.. looks like you are doing some great things. Crazy - but great.


Edit - after doing more and more google searching, general consensus out there in the interwebs is you shouldnt use Auto on dry normal conditions as it does "partially" engage things still. Its not like driving in 4HI all the time, but GM recommends only using Auto when conditions are variable and you may need 4WD.. Guess I'll stop doing that. :/ hah.

Oh yeah, definitely not something to do in the dry. The couple times I used it were when it was sleeting some, but not enough to use 4wd. The main thing it's hard on is the bearings and u-joints, it's rough of them engaging/disengaging all the time. It's like when you ride a roller coaster and you get slung side to side real violently on the turns, the bearings are getting beat.

 

[TotalyHucked]

I've done those bearings different. Didn't touch the adjusters, I split the diff laid the 1/2s open side down on a cookie sheet placed them in the oven,and waited until I heard the races fall out onto the cookie sheet. Turned the 1/2s over and dropped new races in that I had waiting in the freezer.

If I had access to an oven, that's exactly how it would go back together at least. But the GF already said no lol. I will be using a toaster over to put the bearings back on at least

 

[CountKrunk]

I wouldn't do anything automotive related in my cooking oven, that's for sure. Never know what could linger behind and get into your food. We all have enough BS in our bodies already.

I had to google auto 4wd. I remember when men were men and could use their judgement for 4wd!! Haha.

 

[Ricko1966]

Here's what I use for pulling pinion bearings,diff bearings,crank gears, just about everything. Dirt cheap and super versatile.

 

[legopnuematic]

One thing to note with the clamshell pullers, is that they are meant to pull on the cage with the outer race in place. The first time I used mine I did not do that, but now I do (pull on the cage w/outer race).

Kind of voodoo but it works and doesn’t hurt the bearing.

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