Has anyone done the $50 Rustoleum Paint Job on their Square???

[mcarlo86]

Looks like they sprayed it in primer. Unless that's what you mean and the whole top coat is gone.

Yeah, the whole topcoat is gone on the hood and top of the cab.

 

[crazybob]

I rolled on a couple of coats of rust oleum in 2016. My 500.00 C20. Looks like hell now, but fits my personality. My avatar was taken yesterday 6/22/20. Thanks!

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[Bextreme04]

I rolled on a couple of coats of rust oleum in 2016. My 500.00 C20. Looks like hell now, but fits my personality. My avatar was taken yesterday 6/22/20. Thanks!

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I love it

 

[80BrownK10]

I rolled on a couple of coats of rust oleum in 2016. My 500.00 C20. Looks like hell now, but fits my personality. My avatar was taken yesterday 6/22/20. Thanks!

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Dang man I would of kept that Chevy orange!

 

[Ricko1966]

Okay anyone who is still reading this and considering this.FWIW I was actually pretty pleased when I did my 85 c10 with rustoleum and rollers, for the time and effort the truck looked way better.O had forgotten I also sprayed a 1990 s10 with rustoleum cut with acetone, before I ever heard of the 50 dollar paintjob thing.The paint was there the rusty truck was there and I didn't even mask it just used a paint shield and siphon gun then wiped off any overspray immediately.Both trucks looked good for the time and effort, but if I were ever to do it again I'd just use real Automotive enamel, or at least add Japan or Valspar hardner to the rustoleum.The durability of the rustoleum just isn't great because its not hardened.For the time and effort the sprayed rustoleum was better, literally done in under an hour start to finish.Oh and I shot it outside.

 

[Raider L]

I repainted mine some years ago with spray cans. I used Krylon acrylic enamel. I searched and searched for a green metalic and finally found one that nearly matched my Kelly Green metalic and a color that looked similar to a pearl white. I never did find out exactly what it was, the code just said "white" and as you know there's a million whites. And as it was said, I think it was HotRodPC, that prep is everything. He's right.

At the time I worked for an airline and I went over to the paint shop, not ever painting anything as big as a pickup truck before, and ask them what to do for prep. So I did that, after taking off all the trim, taped it all off, and started painting. It was a two tone paint scheme as '74 C10's mostly were and it took 13 spray cans of green metalic, and 11 cans of white, all gloss colors. And I don't know about some people's experience but it dried even and keeping a close eye on it did not have any thin spots form it drying uneven. Follow the directions to the letter. It dries fast so you have to work fast, but not to fast or you will get a thin place, to slow and, god forebid a RUN! I hate runs and sags. And I have painted plenty of motorcycles and tons of car parts and even bicycles to for many, many years in every color but never a whole vehicle. But I ran into a wall on the left front fender where I ran out of green.

So I went back to where I had found that perfect color and they were out. So I looked for something as close as I could find and the nearest thing was in laquaer. Well, know one told me you have to clear coat laquaer or it will turn dull on you within a few days of drying. Well, it sure did and that was the only part of the whole truck that didn't look great. The guys at the hanger couldn't believe I painted the truck with spray cans. I never had the money for a compressor so I had to learn with spray cans and got pretty good with it. I ain't no LA Lowrider painter by anymeans.

 

[HotRodPC]

If ever I have to rattle can anything big, I always bought 4-6 cans more than I needed. Same with tile or grout for that matter. I always look at the dye lot # on the box, can or bag too to make sure they matched. I've had a bad experience with spray primer one time. I bought enough to do the whole car so I thought. I was 3 cans short. A week later I go back to the same store, bought 4 cans to come and see they didn't match. It was darker this time. Lucky for me, I talked to someone at this store and told them what was up. He asked if I by any chance had the case box or a can the original paint came in. I went home and got it and brought it back to the same guy who acted like he knew what he was talking about. He showed me a #, then we started going through the stock they had left. Way in the back, they had 2 cases of 6 with the same # I needed. So I bought a case of 6 to have 2 or 3 extra and he let me exchange the 4 cans, 2 of which I had used.

Moral of the story, ALWAYS buy 3-4 more cans than expected. You may need it for touch up later on, or to sand out a run and repaint anyway. 2nd point, always pay attention to dye lot #'s if pulling from different cases even if the color name and part # are the same.

 

[shiftpro]

A rattle can tip here,

heat 'em up. I would fill a sink with hot water and float the cans in it. Change it after it cools a bit, like in 15 minutes. It takes a bit to get the paint warm, and shake the hell out of them. The heat increases the pressure and you get better coverage, atomization, and curing.

 

[Ricko1966]

I repainted mine some years ago with spray cans. I used Krylon acrylic enamel. I searched and searched for a green metalic and finally found one that nearly matched my Kelly Green metalic and a color that looked similar to a pearl white. I never did find out exactly what it was, the code just said "white" and as you know there's a million whites. And as it was said, I think it was HotRodPC, that prep is everything. He's right.

At the time I worked for an airline and I went over to the paint shop, not ever painting anything as big as a pickup truck before, and ask them what to do for prep. So I did that, after taking off all the trim, taped it all off, and started painting. It was a two tone paint scheme as '74 C10's mostly were and it took 13 spray cans of green metalic, and 11 cans of white, all gloss colors. And I don't know about some people's experience but it dried even and keeping a close eye on it did not have any thin spots form it drying uneven. Follow the directions to the letter. It dries fast so you have to work fast, but not to fast or you will get a thin place, to slow and, god forebid a RUN! I hate runs and sags. And I have painted plenty of motorcycles and tons of car parts and even bicycles to for many, many years in every color but never a whole vehicle. But I ran into a wall on the left front fender where I ran out of green.

So I went back to where I had found that perfect color and they were out. So I looked for something as close as I could find and the nearest thing was in laquaer. Well, know one told me you have to clear coat laquaer or it will turn dull on you within a few days of drying. Well, it sure did and that was the only part of the whole truck that didn't look great. The guys at the hanger couldn't believe I painted the truck with spray cans. I never had the money for a compressor so I had to learn with spray cans and got pretty good with it. I ain't no LA Lowrider painter by anymeans.

Yes lacquer dulls after it dries but color sand it and buff it and it's beautiful.It was factory paint on GM cars for decades and so easy to apply. Not putting clear on it was not the problem. Not knowing to color sand and buff it was the problem.

I've shot lots of paint.For the time trouble and money involved I think any of you looking to do the rustoleum paint job for the money, effort, and durability imron is a way better option.
Lacquer is easy and forgiving you could put it on with cheapest paint gun you can find and a cheap compressor as long as you color sand and buff it.I use to tell people I can shoot lacquer with a Windex bottle the downside is it has gotten so expensive, but anyone can do a very impressive lacquer paint job.

 

[Grit dog]

I guess if you’re going to use a roller or rattle cans like a 15year old painting his first junker then anything works.
But there are just too many economical enamel or urethane auto paints out there to spend the time to “do it right” or at least half assed right and not actually use a paint that will hold up longer and look better. JMO

 

[Vbb199]

My big k5 is a rattle can special, but then again, im sure itll get flipped in its lifetime
My concern for paint goes as follows = 20 grand went into a practically in destructible drivetrain, maybe 50$ in a paintjob.


My suburban if i ever did a restoration, yeah, id spend every bit of the 3-5,000 to have it done right.

 

[Grit dog]

My big k5 is a rattle can special, but then again, im sure itll get flipped in its lifetime
My concern for paint goes as follows = 20 grand went into a practically in destructible drivetrain, maybe 50$ in a paintjob.


My suburban if i ever did a restoration, yeah, id spend every bit of the 3-5,000 to have it done right.

^This. Sure if it’s a wheeler, beater truck for dump runs etc. totally understandable.
But for those wanting a bargain DIY paint job and willing to do the prep work (that’s the hard time consuming part anyways), there are any number of brands that are not expensive and far better.
Eastwood, Imron, Tamco to name a few.

 

[Wrenchless]

We used to paint all the work trucks with rustoleum thinned it with acetone, dried fast and pretty shiny to . Mostly white bodies with gloss black for service beds. Acetone is the secret to rustoleum, without it , it takes to long to dry. My 2 cents!

 

[Ricko1966]

We used to paint all the work trucks with rustoleum thinned it with acetone, dried fast and pretty shiny to . Mostly white bodies with gloss black for service beds. Acetone is the secret to rustoleum, without it , it takes to long to dry. My 2 cents!

It's still not Automotive paint. My 2 cents!

 

[mrghostwalker]

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I just did the '88 this week, and it is a nice cheap way to make your truck look nice semi decent.

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All you need are a couple of old license plates and a rivet gun.

I just watched that episode yesterday!! Here's the link if anyone cars to see how it's done...

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