Has anyone done the $50 Rustoleum Paint Job on their Square???

[HotRodPC]

Just curious to see some. For my 4x4's I can't see spending big bucks on a high quality paint job when I fully intend to have scratches and brush scrubs.

I was told this truck was rolled with thinned Rustoleum.

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[eskimomann209]

I’m no paint guy. But from what I have heard Rustoleum causes issues when going to normal paint later. Something about fish oils in the mix and if ever returned to normal paint it’ll need to be sanded to bare metal.

 

[HotRodPC]

I’m no paint guy. But from what I have heard Rustoleum causes issues when going to normal paint later. Something about fish oils in the mix and if ever returned to normal paint it’ll need to be sanded to bare metal.

I'd say that's probably true. I hear the same about Maaco Paint Jobs. Has something to do with all the enamel or whatever hardner they use. But, I'm really not to worried about that. I don't see me going to a thousands of dollars paint job later on. I just want sanitary looking, not showroom car show paint job.

 

[C10MixMaster]

i did one on a 73 cj5. thinned it and sprayed it. biggest complaint was it does not resist uv well. It got chalky with age.

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[HotRodPC]

i did one on a 73 cj5. thinned it and sprayed it. biggest complaint was it does not resist uv well. It got chalky with age.

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I've heard that too. I was told if you buff it out 2 or 3 months later and put a good coat of wax on it every year you can prevent that from happeneing. I've also heard if after a couple months you buff it out, then spray it with clear, you can also avoid that too. That's kinda why I started this thread. Was to see if anyone could verify these things I've heard.

 

[Big Chip]

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/1988-c1500-silverado.28500/#post-555313

 

[QBuff02]

As with any type of paint job, the key is in the prep. It's been years but I have done a couple of paint jobs on vehicles with cheap supplies and I've learned that even if you use el'cheapo products and paint, if you spend a little extra time on the surface before you start painting you can make a paint job go from a "50 footer" to a "20 footer" pretty easy. And always figure out your reductions and gun pressures on something else (scrap) before you start painting whatever it is that you're painting. Years back when I worked at the John Deere dealership, we would always take the rented/used/traded in corn heads and grain tables and clean them up and paint them when they came in. We'd pressure wash them and prep them and let them sit for a few days to dry when they came in to the store out of the field and were still "shined up". Then when we'd paint them, we'd take a gallon of regular John Deere green paint right off the shelf, cut it 50/50 with thinner and then add a couple ounces of hardener to the mix and shoot it on with a gravity feed/hvlp gun and when it dried you could tell the time on your watch in the paint. It looked like a factory finish, and when customers came in to look at trading pieces they always commented how nice the line of used equipment always looked. Don't forget about the temperature either, there's a big difference in painting something at 50 degrees vs painting something at 75 degrees. If you take your time you can make anything look good.

 

[jjester6000]

I have done it on 3 different trucks.

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My '74 GMC

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My '95 Suburban

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And my '88 Chevy

 

[jjester6000]

I have done it on 3 different trucks.

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My '74 GMC

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My '95 Suburban

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And my '88 Chevy

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I just did the '88 this week, and it is a nice cheap way to make your truck look nice semi decent.

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I spray it, not roll it.

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(except for the '74 that I originally did roll, then resprayed)

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You don't just have to do this to a truck that is solid, you could do it to any rusty pit of bondo.

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All you need are a couple of old license plates and a rivet gun.

 

[RoryH19]

I've seen several YouTubes with the rattle can paint job.
As mentioned before put the time in to prep and after painting use 2k urethan clear coat. Also from a rattle can.

 

[legopnuematic]

I did my 76 with rustoleum, Its one of those things that it had so many previous paint jobs and quite a bit of sinful bodywork that had been done years prior so for 16 year old me it was the best choice at the time. Never wet sanded, cut, or buffed it. I've washed the truck maybe twice since I painted it in May of 2017.

Right after I painted it, hadn't even got the trim on yet.

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At the ZipTie drags 3 months later.

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Three coming up on three years.

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After doing a little touch up on the bedside to fix the cracking that was occurring in the old, old paint so I could put my other lets boogie sticker on.

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I should add that the truck has lived outside the entire time and driven year round and used as a truck.

 

[legopnuematic]

This K5 was done with rustoleum, and the effort to wetsand and buff it was put into it.

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https://www.cartalk.com/blogs/craig-fitzgerald/how-paint-car-bucket-rust-oleum-and-roller

 

[HotRodPC]

I did my 76 with rustoleum, Its one of those things that it had so many previous paint jobs and quite a bit of sinful bodywork that had been done years prior so for 16 year old me it was the best choice at the time. Never wet sanded, cut, or buffed it. I've washed the truck maybe twice since I painted it in May of 2017.

Right after I painted it, hadn't even got the trim on yet.

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At the ZipTie drags 3 months later.

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Three coming up on three years.

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After doing a little touch up on the bedside to fix the cracking that was occurring in the old, old paint so I could put my other lets boogie sticker on.

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I should add that the truck has lived outside the entire time and driven year round and used as a truck.

So it's still holding up fairly well for over 3 years. The other good take away would be, even if the paint isn't looking all that great, it doesn't rust right?

 

[legopnuematic]

So it's still holding up fairly well for over 3 years. The other good take away would be, even if the paint isn't looking all that great, it doesn't rust right?

For what it is its holding up good, some issues are coming through but it's primary in the bed where the most of the old cave and pave bodywork was done likely before I was even born, but the fenders I stripped to bare and haven't had any rust issues with them so far (fwiw one is aftermarket and the other gm reproduction). The toolbox I built for the bed in early 2018 is hot rolled steel that I did zero prep and no primer, just straight rattle can Rust-Oleum and other than the places I have gouged in my parts acquisition adventures, has held up very well.

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[legopnuematic]

Here's a 77 that was done with the Canadian equivalent of Rust-Oleum (tremclad)
https://www.gwellwood.com/project-cars/the-crusty-chevy/tremclad-and-a-roller/

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