gasoline drainback

[80BrownK10]

first i ever heard too! im guessing some kid put a big ol pink and green one on his honda to match the fart pipe and it got out on the interwebs that it was a major performance boost. ?
a perfectly dry pump out of a new box from the chinese parts store will, and does, pull fuel from the tank and fill the carb. !

Haha I call the fart mufflers too!

 

[Rusty Nail]

When I imagine some folks installing regulators or check valves in places The General did not determine as necessary or acceptable, I picture rubber hose and worm gear clamps running over exhaust manifolds.
If you have good parts, they aren't necessary . It's a band-aid to cover up boo-boos.

I said some on purpose.
I have also been witness to some of the outright autrocity levied to many of the fine trucks on THIS MSB.

You have seen it too.

They create fire hazard and show it off like they want a cookie.
Not gonna support that, not sorry either.

SirRobyn makes a brilliant point.

I dont talk **** about weber carbs because they kick ass, I think they suck ass. It is a common thread amongst fuel pressure problems HERE in this MSB but you all keep buying them anyway...
Still junk.
Buy a Holley or rebuild the Quad. That's really the only two reasonable options TO ME. I've had them all.

**** a fuel pressure regulator, they are often hazards and they fail.
I buy better parts.

To his credit:
I only worked as a wrench HALF THE TIME he did, I just talk twice as much **** than him.
hope this helps.

 

[SirRobyn0]

dont know about aftermarket mechanical pumps anymore, my experience since the 70's was a gauge woud always read at 3-4 psi. delco was common replacement item. gotta remember the material back when carbs were king was not viton! it was worse, and still NO carb problems ever from too much pressure because of mechanical stock pumps. carter afb's and their copycats included!
you never touched on why her fuel is drained back and her truck wont start!
oh, btw, dont expect ethanol to last that long in the south. it eats the fuel tanks on boats back home in lowsyana. it shrinks and twists and deforms carb floats too. but in only a few months, it will EAT a float valve and stick it in position like gorilla glue!

Yes delcos were great, at least in the nw they are completely obsolete now. Technically your right I did not give a reason why her fuel is draining back but I did give a reason why it doesnt build back up in a timely fashion. It has always been my thought that drain back doesnt matter to much if the pump is strong. All I can really say is practically speaking at the shop I've fixed apparent drain back issues by replacing the pump. That seems to do the trick.

 

[AuroraGirl]

new in august aint new anymore.
5hrs in 8 months and ethanol is a carb rebuild needing to happen.

stock mechanical pumps do not make enough pressure to bleed past ANY float valve on ANY carb. those fart pipe guys have other issues.
your see thru filter is empty after a big temperature change because there is contraction. and /or a leak.
if the fuel were to drain all the way back to the tank, everytime you turned off the truck, it would still start and run normally........f there were no other problems. the carb bowl holds enough fuel to start and run for a lot of seconds. will idle over a minute.! so pump has plenty of time to refill line. perfect world: your see thru filter would stay full. if the carb bowl is not staying full, its because there is leaking past something like a power valve or checkball or whatever, there is some evaporation, but slow, as the bowl is vented. give a pint of gas an only opening the size of a small straw, and see how long it takes to evaporate, in the shade. hope that helps.

Not a single drop of ethanol gasoline has hit the carburetor since new out of the box.

I use 91 in all applications because my two cars require it and my lawn mowers and equipment can have gas sit longer. I also fill the truck up with gasoline i buy for yard equipment. im also in the northern midwest, in Wisconsin, near canada. Ontario, Canada to be exact.

I feel there is some miscommunication here. Im asking if a 1 way check valve could help the fledgling pump in its current state AS WELL as help a new pump, from a couple answers it seems to be unknown, which is fine. This carburetor runs just fine and I believe, after reading another forum, part of my problem could be the constant ignition-power to the electric choke, rather than off the oil pressure bypass thingy. I misunderstood how an electric choke worked till I was learned(nice english there) by some educmicated folks on another thread. Albeit, the choke should still be closed, and is, for a bit at very first start up, but as I said,

I will only need a pump or two after a cold start when the temperature is warm, hot. As, in this state, fuel stays in the carb and line for a good amount of time, letting it get going versus when cold having to crank for a few seconds to get gas up into the filter as starting the engine will run for 5 seconds and then it will be out of gas, requiring more cranking and eventually a pump to get gas again, then it runs good.

My assumption, whiuch may be incorrect, is that gasoline flows slowly from the filter, as its a high point in my fuel line, down through the pump and back to the tank, which is a slight downhill flow on flat ground. And in most places I park, at an incline, makes it even more sloped back.

Because my carb runs great when its on, knowing others need FPR for the same carb and engine, I assume it means my pump is making the ideal PSI without having a regulator.

So, I will replace the fuel pump. But Im going to need to put a regulator in for that first, which I would like to install before or at the time of my fuel pump as to avoid issues with high pressure.

And, it just hit me, I think I have a fuel pressure regulator meant for a race car... sbc or 351 fords... in my shop.. my uncle said he didnt need it.
I need to go see. I shall later. If I do, thats cool because I didnt want to drop big bucks on a regulator.

You must be registered for see images attach

This is the setup I run, the only difference is the filter is the high point rather than a low point(relative to hose from fuel line) I have 1 way valves from guys recommending it before between the filter and carb, but I have yet to install one. I have 2 of them.

 

[Rusty Nail]

rubber hose and worm gear clamps running over exhaust manifolds.
fire hazard
Not gonna support that, not sorry either.
I buy better parts

Maybe those dudes from the other website can help you, I cannot and will not answer one of your threads again.

There is nothing you can do about it.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Maybe those dudes from the other website can help you, I cannot and will not answer one of your threads again.

There is nothing you can do about it.

Dude, you need to seriously chill. You are going all ape on multiple threads for no reason. We are here to help eachother, not tear eachother down. I value every word you have said to me because I want to learn, not because im trying to prove you wrong. You can take your attitude elsewhere. And if you feel like being civil and engage in conversation again you will be welcomed back. Im sorry you feel that way.

If someone else wants to answer potentially on his behalf on the fuel vent questions, I would very much appreciate. Im just trying to understand an issue that I do not grasp, so kid gloves may be necessary. As well as wipes. Dont forget the wipes....

 

[broketiredugly]

Yes delcos were great, at least in the nw they are completely obsolete now. Technically your right I did not give a reason why her fuel is draining back but I did give a reason why it doesnt build back up in a timely fashion. It has always been my thought that drain back doesnt matter to much if the pump is strong. All I can really say is practically speaking at the shop I've fixed apparent drain back issues by replacing the pump. That seems to do the trick.

roflmao, so, we are back to no check valve, and a good fuel pump will fix her problem. lolololol you really straightened that out for us. thanks.

 

[broketiredugly]

Dude, you need to seriously chill. You are going all ape on multiple threads for no reason. We are here to help eachother, not tear eachother down. I value every word you have said to me because I want to learn, not because im trying to prove you wrong. You can take your attitude elsewhere. And if you feel like being civil and engage in conversation again you will be welcomed back. Im sorry you feel that way.

If someone else wants to answer potentially on his behalf on the fuel vent questions, I would very much appreciate. Im just trying to understand an issue that I do not grasp, so kid gloves may be necessary. As well as wipes. Dont forget the wipes....

cant buy wipes, the hoarders got em all. lol i think the rusty nail was referring to the fire hazzard of spewing fuel all over your truck and bursting into flames while going down the highway. it happens. the way your truck is designed from the factory works good, and is as safe as the NHTSA can make then make it altering the fuel system from oem is a good way to go down in flames. to alter needs a reason. and that reason is to make it better than oem. so the question arises, why do you need it better than oem? what is its purpose? in your case, the alterations are not better than oem, and can cause a hazzard. and the potential alterations you mention, and other(s) are mentioning, are not better than oem, so whydo them? this seguays to my recommendations as i too am concerned about the same things as above.......did you alter it to make it better? did you inquire about altering it to make you better?

the question i always asked my customers when they asked about performance mods, was this. would you do this to an airplane you ride in? most would comprehend. some violated the code and i had nuthing to do with the machine they left in! at service schools, there was a constant reminder of liability. liability to the mechanic, the shop, the principle bussiness, and on up the ladder. there are also responsibilities. one, and the biggest responsibility is to the customer. would you recommend they do that to their airplane? would you do that to their airplane? then by all means, tell them you will not do any mods that will cause them harm!

a real mechanic takes in a lot of data and processes it before ever opening a tool box. for example. what does edelbrock say is spec for fuel pressure requirements for your particular carburetor? what is pressure coming from your fuel pump? are these two parts compatible? if yes, no need to install anything else in the fuel system. if no, then one of those components has to be changed. which one? the no brainer is to NOT use the part that is not better! a real mechaic would make a better decision. are there replacement parts that ARE better? yes. so the decision is made based on specifications, liabilities, and responsibilities.

i never typed so much in m life! and hope that it helps answer your question.
short story........no one would ever manufactor a oem replacement part and advertise it as an oem replacement and it not work with all other oem parts on that vehicle. it would bankrupt them after the first accident lawyer got wind of it. no other mods required. if it aint working right, diagnose and repair. period

 

[gotyourgoat]

Not a single drop of ethanol gasoline has hit the carburetor since new out of the box.

I use 91 in all applications because my two cars require it and my lawn mowers and equipment can have gas sit longer. I also fill the truck up with gasoline i buy for yard equipment. im also in the northern midwest, in Wisconsin, near canada. Ontario, Canada to be exact.

I feel there is some miscommunication here. Im asking if a 1 way check valve could help the fledgling pump in its current state AS WELL as help a new pump, from a couple answers it seems to be unknown, which is fine. This carburetor runs just fine and I believe, after reading another forum, part of my problem could be the constant ignition-power to the electric choke, rather than off the oil pressure bypass thingy. I misunderstood how an electric choke worked till I was learned(nice english there) by some educmicated folks on another thread. Albeit, the choke should still be closed, and is, for a bit at very first start up, but as I said,

I will only need a pump or two after a cold start when the temperature is warm, hot. As, in this state, fuel stays in the carb and line for a good amount of time, letting it get going versus when cold having to crank for a few seconds to get gas up into the filter as starting the engine will run for 5 seconds and then it will be out of gas, requiring more cranking and eventually a pump to get gas again, then it runs good.

My assumption, whiuch may be incorrect, is that gasoline flows slowly from the filter, as its a high point in my fuel line, down through the pump and back to the tank, which is a slight downhill flow on flat ground. And in most places I park, at an incline, makes it even more sloped back.

Because my carb runs great when its on, knowing others need FPR for the same carb and engine, I assume it means my pump is making the ideal PSI without having a regulator.

So, I will replace the fuel pump. But Im going to need to put a regulator in for that first, which I would like to install before or at the time of my fuel pump as to avoid issues with high pressure.

And, it just hit me, I think I have a fuel pressure regulator meant for a race car... sbc or 351 fords... in my shop.. my uncle said he didnt need it.
I need to go see. I shall later. If I do, thats cool because I didnt want to drop big bucks on a regulator.

You must be registered for see images attach

This is the setup I run, the only difference is the filter is the high point rather than a low point(relative to hose from fuel line) I have 1 way valves from guys recommending it before between the filter and carb, but I have yet to install one. I have 2 of them.

Well, I don't know how a fuel pressure regulator is going to help a mostly stock square. Seems unneeded and unnecessary with a mechanical pump.

As far as check valves, the one that was on my truck did nothing more than add more fittings and connections to the line. It did not stop the gas from draining back.

From the pump to the carb was a mess of different lines and fittings. Pulled it all out and went with original hardline. 2 fittings now compared with I want to say 8 between the different line material, valve and filter. I still have the cobbled together line around here somewhere, I'll check later. There is a pic of the mess in the 'what have you done to your square' thread from last summer/fall if you can't wait.

 

[AuroraGirl]

cant buy wipes, the hoarders got em all. lol i think the rusty nail was referring to the fire hazzard of spewing fuel all over your truck and bursting into flames while going down the highway. it happens. the way your truck is designed from the factory works good, and is as safe as the NHTSA can make then make it altering the fuel system from oem is a good way to go down in flames. to alter needs a reason. and that reason is to make it better than oem. so the question arises, why do you need it better than oem? what is its purpose? in your case, the alterations are not better than oem, and can cause a hazzard. and the potential alterations you mention, and other(s) are mentioning, are not better than oem, so whydo them? this seguays to my recommendations as i too am concerned about the same things as above.......did you alter it to make it better? did you inquire about altering it to make you better?

the question i always asked my customers when they asked about performance mods, was this. would you do this to an airplane you ride in? most would comprehend. some violated the code and i had nuthing to do with the machine they left in! at service schools, there was a constant reminder of liability. liability to the mechanic, the shop, the principle bussiness, and on up the ladder. there are also responsibilities. one, and the biggest responsibility is to the customer. would you recommend they do that to their airplane? would you do that to their airplane? then by all means, tell them you will not do any mods that will cause them harm!

a real mechanic takes in a lot of data and processes it before ever opening a tool box. for example. what does edelbrock say is spec for fuel pressure requirements for your particular carburetor? what is pressure coming from your fuel pump? are these two parts compatible? if yes, no need to install anything else in the fuel system. if no, then one of those components has to be changed. which one? the no brainer is to NOT use the part that is not better! a real mechaic would make a better decision. are there replacement parts that ARE better? yes. so the decision is made based on specifications, liabilities, and responsibilities.

i never typed so much in m life! and hope that it helps answer your question.
short story........no one would ever manufactor a oem replacement part and advertise it as an oem replacement and it not work with all other oem parts on that vehicle. it would bankrupt them after the first accident lawyer got wind of it. no other mods required. if it aint working right, diagnose and repair. period

A lot of replacement pumps say they do about 8psi, and other guys report that its not uncommon even if its rated, say, 6 psi to have fluctuations. And its a common occurance to need a FPR with this carb. One of those things where id like to fix it when i have the fuel line disconnected and im already handling it

 

[broketiredugly]

A lot of replacement pumps say they do about 8psi, and other guys report that its not uncommon even if its rated, say, 6 psi to have fluctuations. And its a common occurance to need a FPR with this carb. One of those things where id like to fix it when i have the fuel line disconnected and im already handling it

hmmmmm. what are specs you need? that is first question. what is your particular carburetor spec at for fuel pressure rating?
THEN, you can find pump that will stay under spec. then you have no worries.
1. make sure (absolute, not internet he/she said) what your particular model number carb is rated for fuel pressure by edelbrock.
2. find pump that works within edelbrocks spec range. and verify that pump does indeed maintain pressure that it specs at.

carbs and pumps are not a critical thang! i guess some of the chinese copycat stuff may actually increase psi because someone started an internet rumor or something, but doubtful. when everyone back in the day tested fuel pump output, it was to make sure there was enough flow, not pressure!

things to ponder. reckon the internet space cadets are running a carb swap on a tbi truck, and running in tank tbi electric pump to said carb? that would be +- 12psi. that would not be good, and would need a regulator, and would be a hazzard, and would cause innocents such as yourself to worry forever about something when the provided info was WRONG again?
hmmmmm.

 

[AuroraGirl]

hmmmmm. what are specs you need? that is first question. what is your particular carburetor spec at for fuel pressure rating?
THEN, you can find pump that will stay under spec. then you have no worries.
1. make sure (absolute, not internet he/she said) what your particular model number carb is rated for fuel pressure by edelbrock.
2. find pump that works within edelbrocks spec range. and verify that pump does indeed maintain pressure that it specs at.

carbs and pumps are not a critical thang! i guess some of the chinese copycat stuff may actually increase psi because someone started an internet rumor or something, but doubtful. when everyone back in the day tested fuel pump output, it was to make sure there was enough flow, not pressure!

things to ponder. reckon the internet space cadets are running a carb swap on a tbi truck, and running in tank tbi electric pump to said carb? that would be +- 12psi. that would not be good, and would need a regulator, and would be a hazzard, and would cause innocents such as yourself to worry forever about something when the provided info was WRONG again?
hmmmmm.

6.5psi is the max end.
this is my current one

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[broketiredugly]

but you didnt finish. who manufacrtured "my current one". you gotta get a little smarter about this stuff if you gonna wear out keyboards.

 

[gotyourgoat]

Many different lines, connections and useless crap vs. straight shot hardline.

The only downside returning to factory (if you can call it that) is it adds a step of removing/loosening the line if you want to pull the carb, just as you would if it was from the factory.

You must be registered for see images attach

That's the cleaned up version of the old fuel line btw..

 

[SirRobyn0]

Nothing to see here. An admin can delete this post, if I can I don't see how.