Fuel return diy

[projectmidnight74]

Chevrolet started running 3 line bypass pumps with a return to the tank on nothing crazy,stone stock, carbureated small blocks in 1979. There is no reason that good bypass regulator would be any more liable to fail than the regulator you put on there. @Bextreme04 gave you good advice and good reason why you should run a bypass. There is one more reason and maybe even one of the problems you are having. With a 2 line pump,fuel pressure is held against the needle and seat when you park. As the fuel heats in the line in a hot soak,it explains the extra pressure blows the needle and seat open,extra fuel spills into the bowl and floods the manifold. On a hot restart you have too much fuel,not enough air you pump the pedal and it starts,because of the extra air,and the black poof out the tail pipe is too rich mixture. With a bypass the extra fuel bleeds back to the tank

Got it. Feed me links to good bypasses for a carb system. Edelbrock based. Lol

 

[projectmidnight74]

On second thought. I think I got it. Thanks for the advice and I will provide updates. Soon.

 

[Ricko1966]

On second thought. I think I got it. Thanks for the advice and I will provide updates. Soon.

See if you can exchange the 803 for an 803bp. If not I can explain a different method. I do not know if you will understand it or be able to accomplish it. Get another fitting like the one you have on the bottom of your regulator, solder the opening shut and drill a .060 orifice in it or see if you can tap it and put a carbureator jet with a .060 orifice in it. Now put that where your gauge ispresently,that will be your return. Move the gauge to the other side mounted on a tee. If you cant the whole mess a few degrees so the return port is the higher than the pressure port it will also bleed out vapor. Do not get me wrong. I still think a purpose built bypass regulator would be better. I am just using an approximate orifice the builders would know what actual diamension would work best.

 

[Bextreme04]

On second thought. I think I got it. Thanks for the advice and I will provide updates. Soon.

Why are you running an electric pump at all? Is this a high HP engine with no mechanical pump provisions or something?

 

[AuroraGirl]

If OP is open to using a mechanical fuel pump, then edelbrock sells a mechanical pump that is internally regulated to the proper pressure for edelbrocks. Insulating the fuel lines near the engine/exhaust, and having a heat shield of some kind to deflect some road heat on the long sections will help with the fuel issue. The electric fuel pump can still be used, but it has to be one that the mechanical pump can "Suck through" , or else the pumps might fight eachother possibly.

 

[projectmidnight74]

So, here is where we are. After buying the moroso fuel return line kit for $75 bucks, I attempted to install it and failed. 1 reason was because the adapter hoses were too thick to get on the filler neck and secure properly and 2 because the filler neck is the wrong size. I now have an in line fuel pressure gauge after removing the filter on the engine bay and have a full 3/8 return line running to the rear of the truck. The plan is now, with the correct filler hose, to use this 90 degree 3/8 barb and plumb it into the filler line and plug that return into that and it will dump directly into the tank. Wish me luck.

 

[Tonimus]

If it's stupid but it works, it isn't stupid.