Front axle off set to passenger side

[iamtherealJayy]

I plan on replacing the seal on the back of the rotor I just couldn’t figure out what it was called lol. Oreillys bearings are master pro, and if it fixes it for now it’s worth it, the truck doesn’t get tons of miles or any long traveling.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I plan on replacing the seal on the back of the rotor I just couldn’t figure out what it was called lol. Oreillys bearings are master pro, and if it fixes it for now it’s worth it, the truck doesn’t get tons of miles or any long traveling.

I've had good luck with Timkin, Koyo, and SKF

^this

These are probably the only bearings I'd get unless in a pinch. Some National bearings are reputed to be quality, but typically if you see a Timken, Koyo or SKF; they are going to have decent quality standards.

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You've had quite a long saga trying to get the front end on this truck right. Hopefully you do soon. If the frame is bent enough, you may not get the desired effect changing parts. It may be that now knowing there is an issue, is constantly drawing your attention to something that was previously unknown and not bothering you. Ignorance is bliss, or something like that.

Though, I really have no room to speak on the matter. My way of fixing problems involves throwing every part at it until you have a new truck. Works almost every time.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

So far it’s been worth dumping money into lol I kinda want this truck in the end to be a weekend “show” level truck. Small lift time correct wheels overall just a good looking truck. The truck is never going to see interstate or long journeys. I just want it to be reliable when I need it. I’m getting new wheels bearings right now and spindle seals

 

[Bextreme04]

You likely won't need to replace the bearings. You should only have to do that if they are damaged, same with the races. I would have them on hand, just in case, and then return what you don't have to actually use. Replace all seals and replace the internal shaft needle bearings(they cant be adjusted when they wear). Then clean the heck out of everything and repack the bearings before putting everything back together and properly adjusting them. The tapered wheel bearing will last a VERY long time with just regular repacking of grease and adjustment.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The one bearing I didn’t get is the only one I really need to replace? Figures, I asked for front wheel bearings and I ended up with three different sets of bearings and she told me I had a set of races to pick up tomorrow, I got(for some reason) two inner bearings and two different sets of outer bearings, one has race already attached and one doesn’t so I assume they’re different? They’re both called front outer on the oreillys website. I also got seals for the front. But did not get the little needle bearing.

 

[AuroraGirl]

You likely won't need to replace the bearings. You should only have to do that if they are damaged, same with the races. I would have them on hand, just in case, and then return what you don't have to actually use. Replace all seals and replace the internal shaft needle bearings(they cant be adjusted when they wear). Then clean the heck out of everything and repack the bearings before putting everything back together and properly adjusting them. The tapered wheel bearing will last a VERY long time with just regular repacking of grease and adjustment.

I thought we were looking at a damaged bearing ? Or is it possible its still ok?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m currently taking the hub apart… it’s way different than the k10 so far..

 

[Bextreme04]

I thought we were looking at a damaged bearing ? Or is it possible its still ok?

We don’t know, just that it AT LEASt needs to be tightened. You can’t know if they are damaged until disassembly and cleaning.

The one bearing I didn’t get is the only one I really need to replace? Figures, I asked for front wheel bearings and I ended up with three different sets of bearings and she told me I had a set of races to pick up tomorrow, I got(for some reason) two inner bearings and two different sets of outer bearings, one has race already attached and one doesn’t so I assume they’re different? They’re both called front outer on the oreillys website. I also got seals for the front. But did not get the little needle bearing.

There is an inner and outer bearing and race on the rotor. There is also a seal that goes into the back of the rotor and seals on the spindle. This is the rear seal on my 1980 K25 10 bolt front.

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IF you choose to take the spindle off, you should replace the needle bearing and seal in there as well. This is the only kit I could find with all the parts to do that. Napa had them in stock too.

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[iamtherealJayy]

Finally got the ring out, go to put my socket on and the nut moved.. it was hand tight, maybe, so I’m definitely just going to repack and torque down

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m not going that deep, I wasn’t taking any further than the rotor off.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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So uh how do you remove this seal? Neither one of the axle nuts were more than hand tight… I removed both of them by hand with the socket.. but I have no clue how to remove this seal to check out the inner bearing.

 

[Bextreme04]

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So uh how do you remove this seal? Neither one of the axle nuts were more than hand tight… I removed both of them by hand with the socket.. but I have no clue how to remove this seal to check out the inner bearing.

Well... that rotor looks TERRIBLE!!! Not that I wouldn't still run it, but man

There are two ways to do it, One is to get a pry bar or big screwdriver and just pry up on the inside of the seal until it pops out.

The other way is to flip it over onto something, get yourself something softish that will fit through the center and give the inner bearing a gentle whack with a hammer. It will push the seal out with the bearing. I generally only do #2 if I'm replacing the bearings. If you just want to repack and properly tighten, do #1.

 

[Bextreme04]

In leu of using a screwdriver or pry bar, you can also buy the correct tool. I bought one a while back and it makes it much easier. They are only $8 at harbor freight and a bit more at most parts stores. https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-...s_XFTG9bdG9ByLtIMT7AgqQh5LEDS1LoaAj93EALw_wcB

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I did a mixture.. tap to get started then grabbed it with pliers. How can I tell if the bearing is bad? They’re both dirty(not greasy but gritty) I’ve wiped a lot of grease off but should they buy tight? Or have some wiggle to them

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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And the rotor doesn’t look too bad :/ the truck sat for six years before I got it lol