Front axle off set to passenger side

[Bextreme04]

My rag joint looks perfect in all honesty, it’s not all cracked or frayed, looks fine overall. But with the wheels on the ground I can rotate the steering shaft probably 20% of a rotation pretty easily.

Yes, the steering box adjustment is specifically to take the slop out of the steering gear itself.

I highly recommend you take the front hubs apart and regrease the bearings and locking hubs and then properly set pre-load on them. It's quick and easy. You will need to rent a GM 4wd socket from a box auto parts store or just buy one, they are about $20. You will need to tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the hub, then back off until loose, then tighten again to 30 ft-lbs while rotating hub, then back off 1/8 turn. Put on the locking washer, then tighten the outer nut to something like 120 ft-lbs. You should feel a very slight click if you push the hub in and then pull it back out again. This shows that you have enough clearance without it being excessive. If you can feel your tire wobble in and out at the top when you had it off the ground, you have most likely found your shaking issue. Fix it before the bearings completely come apart and the wheel/hub decides to completely leave the vehicle, at speed, on the highway.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The wheel-column is tight yes, and regarding wheel bearings the whole reason I even tried moving the tire was because when lifting the truck the tires toe? in, opposite of camber, the bottom came in. I have a 4 peg socket I used on the k10 if they’re the same size socket. What’s the best grease? For the k10 I used red high temp bearing grease from oreillys. I’ll cheap out on the blue truck but the red one I actually like so I’d like to do it right.

 

[Bextreme04]

The wheel-column is tight yes, and regarding wheel bearings the whole reason I even tried moving the tire was because when lifting the truck the tires toe? in, opposite of camber, the bottom came in. I have a 4 peg socket I used on the k10 if they’re the same size socket. What’s the best grease? For the k10 I used red high temp bearing grease from oreillys. I’ll cheap out on the blue truck but the red one I actually like so I’d like to do it right.

I use either Lucas Red n tacky or a moly HD lube. It honestly doesn't matter much as long as it is a high quality chassis or wheel bearing grease. If you could see the wheels sag when you lifted it up.... they are WAY too loose.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’ll look into getting new ones and replacing them and getting an alignment.

 

[AuroraGirl]

The wheel-column is tight yes, and regarding wheel bearings the whole reason I even tried moving the tire was because when lifting the truck the tires toe? in, opposite of camber, the bottom came in. I have a 4 peg socket I used on the k10 if they’re the same size socket. What’s the best grease? For the k10 I used red high temp bearing grease from oreillys. I’ll cheap out on the blue truck but the red one I actually like so I’d like to do it right.

I mean, some of the tire not being compressed may change appearance but if you mean the actual assembly, hub, had a noticeable shift then yeah...

I have an original lightly used 1981 truck bearing, its yours, 200$ USD(joking lol)I think it even has a matching companion and I dont know where or why I have it but my gpa must have gotten a truck with an accident or something and saved its bearing. ON the good side. Weird

 

[AuroraGirl]

I’ll look into getting new ones and replacing them and getting an alignment.

Also be sure to get new seals while youre in there and be sure to use new race. if you want to keep it cleaner, you can buy a greaser thing that you pump grease into a bearing with it. you sandwich a bearing between two surfaces and then grease in the center, it pressure finds its way into it. hand greasing is fine, just mentioned because you want to keep less grease on you lol

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go big or go home(Im being playful but this is apparently a good grease)

Also here is a chart that could be meaningless since it was internally done by amsoil

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Oh its from 99 even, sweet lol

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Do new wheel bearings come with races? Do I need tapered or what looks like flat? I assume tapered, the k10 had tapered.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Do new wheel bearings come with races? Do I need tapered or what looks like flat? I assume tapered, the k10 had tapered.

Im pretty sure most wheel bearings are tapered at least when its coming to spindle type. Becuase they work as a pair , thats why I understand that they are used but I could be wrong. yes they should come with race, but I meant more like dont reuse yours since you are not changing the hub.

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this is what the AC delco catalog says. I dont know much persoanlly its been too long since i was doing it. also, the only reason I was there was for your exhaust donut thing which I posted here as you can see. It looks like it says "optional" with that gasket number which is a exhaust manifold gasket I looked up. Not sure. also I didnt see any flange gaskets sold either so I assume that the donut is the only necessary one but idk

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Alright I’ll try and get some bearings ordered up, assume AC Delco is the way to go? Or does MOOG or a similar brand make such parts?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Alright I’ll try and get some bearings ordered up, assume AC Delco is the way to go? Or does MOOG or a similar brand make such parts?

Moog is hit or miss quality and during pandemic supply times I wouldnt pay premium for what people are now frequently reporting getting , and this is before covid.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’ll check partgeek prices for ac deal o because I assume I need to get 2 inner and 2 outer, since nothing on oreillys states anything about the race being included.

 

[CalSgt]

Alright I’ll try and get some bearings ordered up, assume AC Delco is the way to go? Or does MOOG or a similar brand make such parts?

Its not a bad idea to get bearings ordered from a local parts house that will let you bring them back if not needed. Get your current bearings out, detail clean all of the grease out of them with solvent (gas) or whatever and inspect them closely. Damaged bearings will usually be pitted, galled, or obviously damaged. If there is no visible damage repack them with grease and re assemble everything like bextreme said.

Since you are breaking it down that far its a good idea to pop the spindle off and inspect and repack the needle bearing inside there too.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Will just oreillys wheel bearings be fine, they’re still gonna cost about $100 for bearings. I’ll go buy them right now it says they have them in stock at my local oreillys, and start taking everything apart. I need two inner and two outer I suppose. And a tub of grease and then get an alignment.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Will just oreillys wheel bearings be fine, they’re still gonna cost about $100 for bearings. I’ll go buy them right now it says they have them in stock at my local oreillys, and start taking everything apart. I need two inner and two outer I suppose. And a tub of grease and then get an alignment.

I was posting that for cross reference. I mean they arent great, likely, but I am not one to say that those ac delcos are great either.. who knows

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[CalSgt]

Will just oreillys wheel bearings be fine, they’re still gonna cost about $100 for bearings. I’ll go buy them right now it says they have them in stock at my local oreillys, and start taking everything apart. I need two inner and two outer I suppose. And a tub of grease and then get an alignment.

I've had good luck with Timkin, Koyo, and SKF bearings but wouldn't hesitate using anything over a damaged bearing.

Get a set of seals too, the only ones you typically "need" are the spindle seals that press into the back side of the hub assembly. All of the spindle seals on the inside of the spindle are usually reusable. You cant get the inner bearing and race out without removing the one seal. They're hard to remove without damaging them but it can be done.