Fixing a jimmy rigged electrical system

[jfrancom101]

Sorry, that was a very confusing message. There is only one engine. I meant going to the back of the engine, not another engine. and yes there is a plow mounted on the front, I'll get a picture in a bit, no salt spreader yet. And I'll look into the mechanical pump as well. If it isn't too expensive then I could do it sooner then later and just solved the issue with the electric pump wiring,
The mess of wires reffered to al the wires on teh secondary batter, most of them go towards the back of the egine. I include that same picture again so that you know which one I'm talking about.

 

[jfrancom101]

This is what I use, I prefer the naked butt splices and shrink wrap to keep everything clean. The connectors with the colored plastic insulators look crappy and don't crimp as well. One more tip, when you are replacing wires or connectors it is less confusing if you correct one wire at a time instead of pulling everything apart all at once. Start where ever you feel comfortable. If it's in your budget, a colored wiring diagram as reference will save you time and aggravation too. If you have the option of diesel diagram and regular, get both. That way one diagram shows what you have and the other shows where you want to end up. It will help you know what to remove and what needs to be changed.

The dual battery setup was to power the glow plugs on the diesel engine for starting, if you are going to use it as a spare battery it will be wired a little different than the diesel configuration. Or the second battery and the extra wiring can be removed.

Those definitely look like better crimp connectors to me. You just pick those up at an autoparts store? I'll look for a diagram as well

 

[jfrancom101]

There is a mechanical fuel pump in these first pictures. What is it connected to and where are the fuel lines routed?? Is the electric pump PULLING from the tank or a gas can somewhere?

Please do nothing but remove that electric pump from the engine bay. If you intend to run electric that's fine but put it next to the tank. You may also need a pressure regulator with a carburetor setup and an electric pump.

If I had to guess this electric pump hacking setup was proof it could run so it could be sold... Now that we've done that let's put a mechanical pump on and get rid of the wiring that shouldn't be there and is only causing issues.

The pump right now pulls from one tank. I assume the other tank isn't set up because the refill cap is screwed into the truck so I can't open it. That's something I'll wan to fix later for sure

 

[jfrancom101]

There is a mechanical fuel pump in these first pictures. What is it connected to and where are the fuel lines routed?? Is the electric pump PULLING from the tank or a gas can somewhere?

Please do nothing but remove that electric pump from the engine bay. If you intend to run electric that's fine but put it next to the tank. You may also need a pressure regulator with a carburetor setup and an electric pump.

If I had to guess this electric pump hacking setup was proof it could run so it could be sold... Now that we've done that let's put a mechanical pump on and get rid of the wiring that shouldn't be there and is only causing issues.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DFPMF0004?impressionRank=15

Would this pump be a good option?

 

[SirRobyn0]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DFPMF0004?impressionRank=15

Would this pump be a good option?

It's okish. The problem we see with most of the over the counter auto parts pumps is that they sometimes run to high of fuel pressure and create issues. Getting a Edlebrock or Holley pump would likely be a better option, but I know you want to keep it cheap and I understand that. So given that I'd say go for the pump you quoted and either grab a pressure regulator right off the bat or at least keep in mind that you might need one. There are some really great regulators out there, but they'd be to expensive for what your trying to do, so you could put one of these in there. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7357298 The Mr Gasket regulators are not known to be the best in the world but it'll get the job done and I think fit your budget, plus they are readily available at pretty much any auto parts store.

 

[Grit dog]

^You're saying standard mechanical fuel pumps are now known for putting out too high of pressure?

 

[SirRobyn0]

^You're saying standard mechanical fuel pumps are now known for putting out too high of pressure?

Yes and no. I'm saying the standard ones seem to have gotten unpredictable in recent years, I don't think they are checking and calibating the economy pumps at the time of manufacturing. Some seem to be fine others a bit high. I can't remember if he said what carb he is running, Q-jets seem to be fine with the additional pressure for the most part Edelbrocks don't like it. Since his stock metal line from the pump to the carb is gone anyway he's either going to be using bulk rubber hose or bending up a new metal line, so that would be a good time to stick a regulator in there. Again he might get a unit that's just fine. I also know the edelbrock and Holley pumps are calibrated to 6psi.

 

[WP29P4A]

It's okish. The problem we see with most of the over the counter auto parts pumps is that they sometimes run to high of fuel pressure and create issues. Getting a Edlebrock or Holley pump would likely be a better option, but I know you want to keep it cheap and I understand that. So given that I'd say go for the pump you quoted and either grab a pressure regulator right off the bat or at least keep in mind that you might need one. There are some really great regulators out there, but they'd be to expensive for what your trying to do, so you could put one of these in there. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7357298 The Mr Gasket regulators are not known to be the best in the world but it'll get the job done and I think fit your budget, plus they are readily available at pretty much any auto parts store.

I agree and if I may ad something to think about. You have to figure out the math that works for you. In my opinion the price of a cheap fuel pump $21.00 is what you will save by purchasing a better pump to begin with. I can't count how many times I have bought the cheaper model only to have it fail prematurely or not work well enough and then I have to purchase the one I should have bought the first time. The point is, if you buy the cheapest parts you WILL replace them more often and the vehicle will be less dependable. The one below would be adequate if you need to keep it under $100.00 Napa has one for $50.00 model NNP-B0006P. It comes down to gambling, do you want to fix the odds where you get to repeat this adventure in a year or two, or would you like the set the odds so you don't have to do this again for 5 to 10 years. Again, this is just info to help you decide, you do whats best for you.

If it comes down to budget I would use the little pump you have until funds are available to replace and go back to the mechanical pump. But if you can afford the pump, then you don't have to deal with pump wiring. Please do what's best for you and don't let me push you to follow my path if it's not where you want to go. I'll still help even if you don't do it MY WAY. lol

PLEASE check my part numbers for correct fit, I don't know what year motor you have. I guessed it is older due to valve cover bolts.

 

[WP29P4A]

Those definitely look like better crimp connectors to me. You just pick those up at an autoparts store? I'll look for a diagram as well

https://www.wiringdepot.com/...................This is the place where I order from, great selection and good prices compared to auto parts stores. They also have heat shrink in several sizes and colors. It was just a coincidence that they happen to be in my town. They don't do retail, so I have to order like everyone else. They should have everything you need in the "Terminals" section to replace the wire ends that are rusted, corroded or lose. Napa has little spools of automotive wire if you need to replace any wires.

While you're shopping at some point (asap) you will want to replace the terminal/fusible link on the firewall with the rusty studs and nuts, most Chevy restoration parts places have them.

 

[gotyourgoat]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DFPMF0004?impressionRank=15

Would this pump be a good option?

That pump will fit but it might not be the right one for what you have going on. We need some more info.

First that mf0004 is a 2 port pump. I believe the one currently on my truck is a delphi but part number mf0002, which is a 3 port pump, one in and two out.

Look at the pump that is on there. is it connected to anything? Look at the frame rail by that pump. Do you see the two hard lines to and from the tank?

Here's my oil stain showing what it should and should not look like .

You must be registered for see images attach

#1 In from tank
#2 out to carb
#3 out recirculating back to tank
#4 & 5 these are the same lines as #1 & #3 but they are metal and they are attached to the frame rail.

What do we have to work with? Do you see or have any of these lines?

 

[WP29P4A]

Sorry, that was a very confusing message. There is only one engine. I meant going to the back of the engine, not another engine. and yes there is a plow mounted on the front, I'll get a picture in a bit, no salt spreader yet. And I'll look into the mechanical pump as well. If it isn't too expensive then I could do it sooner then later and just solved the issue with the electric pump wiring,
The mess of wires reffered to al the wires on teh secondary batter, most of them go towards the back of the egine. I include that same picture again so that you know which one I'm talking about.

In this picture it looks like the red wire from the Dist with the taped on connector splices to a yellow wire coming from the firewall, next to the hard brake line coils. The pic it's big enough to tell for sure, can you confirm? Or get closer pic?

 

[AuroraGirl]

^You're saying standard mechanical fuel pumps are now known for putting out too high of pressure?

if they dont **** themselves prematurely they may just drown your carb in gas. its kinda like a chaotic evil, its not sure what its doing but its up to nothign good.

 

[jfrancom101]

It's okish. The problem we see with most of the over the counter auto parts pumps is that they sometimes run to high of fuel pressure and create issues. Getting a Edlebrock or Holley pump would likely be a better option, but I know you want to keep it cheap and I understand that. So given that I'd say go for the pump you quoted and either grab a pressure regulator right off the bat or at least keep in mind that you might need one. There are some really great regulators out there, but they'd be to expensive for what your trying to do, so you could put one of these in there. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7357298 The Mr Gasket regulators are not known to be the best in the world but it'll get the job done and I think fit your budget, plus they are readily available at pretty much any auto parts store.

Awesome! And would I need dto install the regulator right away? Or just get to it as soon as possible?

 

[jfrancom101]

Yes and no. I'm saying the standard ones seem to have gotten unpredictable in recent years, I don't think they are checking and calibating the economy pumps at the time of manufacturing. Some seem to be fine others a bit high. I can't remember if he said what carb he is running, Q-jets seem to be fine with the additional pressure for the most part Edelbrocks don't like it. Since his stock metal line from the pump to the carb is gone anyway he's either going to be using bulk rubber hose or bending up a new metal line, so that would be a good time to stick a regulator in there. Again he might get a unit that's just fine. I also know the edelbrock and Holley pumps are calibrated to 6psi.

This is the carb I got. I think just a standard 4 barrel

 

[jfrancom101]

I agree and if I may ad something to think about. You have to figure out the math that works for you. In my opinion the price of a cheap fuel pump $21.00 is what you will save by purchasing a better pump to begin with. I can't count how many times I have bought the cheaper model only to have it fail prematurely or not work well enough and then I have to purchase the one I should have bought the first time. The point is, if you buy the cheapest parts you WILL replace them more often and the vehicle will be less dependable. The one below would be adequate if you need to keep it under $100.00 Napa has one for $50.00 model NNP-B0006P. It comes down to gambling, do you want to fix the odds where you get to repeat this adventure in a year or two, or would you like the set the odds so you don't have to do this again for 5 to 10 years. Again, this is just info to help you decide, you do whats best for you.

If it comes down to budget I would use the little pump you have until funds are available to replace and go back to the mechanical pump. But if you can afford the pump, then you don't have to deal with pump wiring. Please do what's best for you and don't let me push you to follow my path if it's not where you want to go. I'll still help even if you don't do it MY WAY. lol

PLEASE check my part numbers for correct fit, I don't know what year motor you have. I guessed it is older due to valve cover bolts.

For sure. I definitely like fixing things the right way when possible, It always saves a lot of headache in the long run. I'll have to see in the next couple of days, I'd prefer to get slightly better if it makes a difference, especially if to high pressure could mess with the carb, fixing a carb is a whole lot more expensive too.
and yeah I think it is a 78 motor