Faulty rigged

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Camar068

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Yeah, it looks like the truck had a 6-port valve and they couldn't find one, so they used a pair of 3-port valves. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

However, I do see a glass fuel filter that absolutely has to go. If it's not leaking currently, it will be.
Agree, if your going to use that type of filter, it needs to be up by the carb where you can see it easily....and you be under the hood a lot to check it. Got rid of mine the first time it failed.
 

bucket

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Of those parts that were removed, just for clarification, those are valves... not pumps.

Using them is still perfectly safe, but tidying up the hoses and leaky connections obviously is a good idea.
 

bucket

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Agree, if your going to use that type of filter, it needs to be up by the carb where you can see it easily....and you be under the hood a lot to check it. Got rid of mine the first time it failed.

I had one of those glass filters about 25 years ago. One day it was fine, the next day it was spraying fuel all over my intake manifold. The sad part is, they still make them and the quality is even less than it used to be.
 

Craig Nedrow

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I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
 

jonbgood

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Of those parts that were removed, just for clarification, those are valves... not pumps.

Using them is still perfectly safe, but tidying up the hoses and leaky connections obviously is a good idea.
Ok got it, thanks so much for the clarification. I’m starting to understand better now they used two because the 6 port is basically discontinued. Is there any way to test those before putting back together? Is it safe to run all hoses in rear end or do I need to use cross over hard lines from tanks?
 

jonbgood

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I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
Yes it has an original looking switch on dash with a 5 wire plugged into back.
 

jonbgood

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I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
Craig, I checked that thread didn’t see nothing about the 6 wire. That info would be helpful tho. Appreciate ya trying to point me in the rite direction
 

bucket

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Ok got it, thanks so much for the clarification. I’m starting to understand better now they used two because the 6 port is basically discontinued. Is there any way to test those before putting back together? Is it safe to run all hoses in rear end or do I need to use cross over hard lines from tanks?

Apply a ground wire to the mounting tab, and 12v to the harness connection. If they click, they work. At rest, the fuel flows through one inlet port. With 12v applied, the solenoid moves to let fuel flow through the other port.

Running rubber hose across the frame, while technically not "correct", is ok to do with proper routing.
 

jonbgood

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Apply a ground wire to the mounting tab, and 12v to the harness connection. If they click, they work. At rest, the fuel flows through one inlet port. With 12v applied, the solenoid moves to let fuel flow through the other port.

Running rubber hose across the frame, while technically not "correct", is ok to do with proper routing.
Thanks bucket. Now thinking of it that might have been the problem, when it was all connected there wasn’t a ground and it wasn’t bolted to frame it was just hanging,the return side valve
 

Craig Nedrow

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Craig, I checked that thread didn’t see nothing about the 6 wire. That info would be helpful tho. Appreciate ya trying to point me in the rite direction
Johnny here is a good source of info on the installation and wiring for the valves etc. Bucket is right, neg to clean bare metal on frame, + to, in my case six wire connector.
 

AuroraGirl

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If the tanks don’t leak now, good chance they’ll be good for years to come. Especially if the truck is also pretty rust free.
On my 86 1 rusted out but from the outside where mud was trapped in the plastic shield. Whatever gets spilled between the bed and cab lands on top of the tank and makes its way down and trapped in by the shield.
The 77 is basically stock but the left saddle tank is a 70s era aftermarket tank in the factory location. (No idea why that was a good idea. It’s a heavy crusty square welded steel tank. Would have seemed easier and more economical to just use OE type parts since it only holds a couple more gallons than the stock tanks. )
It’s just a 1 wire solenoid 3 port valve, no return lines. And it’s new as of a few years ago. Toggle switch in the cab.
I do need to add some more steel line when I remove the bed.
But my point was it’s not hard to keep both tanks even if you don’t use an OE type switching valve. There are many options out there for dual tank valves. Manual or electric.
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Did your aftermarket auxillary tank look like this?
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Grit dog

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Did your aftermarket auxillary tank look like this?
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Yup. Pretty much the same. Holds about 22gal I figure.
 

75gmck25

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My truck had a dealer-installed aux tank and it looked just like the square one in your picture. I got a factory tank, solenoid, hard lines and all the wiring from a truck in the pick and pull, and now mine is a near stock setup.

Still kind of a PIA because there are so many different rubber hoses when you have a six port valve, and they are not all the same size. Lots of hose clamps to potentially loosen up and drip fuel.
 

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