Faulty rigged

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Camar068

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Posts
4,322
Reaction score
3,371
Location
Kentucky
First Name
David
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
Yeah, it looks like the truck had a 6-port valve and they couldn't find one, so they used a pair of 3-port valves. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

However, I do see a glass fuel filter that absolutely has to go. If it's not leaking currently, it will be.
Agree, if your going to use that type of filter, it needs to be up by the carb where you can see it easily....and you be under the hood a lot to check it. Got rid of mine the first time it failed.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,563
Reaction score
28,644
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Of those parts that were removed, just for clarification, those are valves... not pumps.

Using them is still perfectly safe, but tidying up the hoses and leaky connections obviously is a good idea.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,563
Reaction score
28,644
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Agree, if your going to use that type of filter, it needs to be up by the carb where you can see it easily....and you be under the hood a lot to check it. Got rid of mine the first time it failed.

I had one of those glass filters about 25 years ago. One day it was fine, the next day it was spraying fuel all over my intake manifold. The sad part is, they still make them and the quality is even less than it used to be.
 

Craig Nedrow

NADAR UNDER THE RADAR
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Posts
1,079
Reaction score
2,289
Location
Washington State
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1973 (have two), 1985
Truck Model
K10, K20, C20
Engine Size
350, 454, 6.2 Detroit
I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
 

jonbgood

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2024
Posts
15
Reaction score
6
Location
east bay area , California
First Name
Johnny
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
454
Of those parts that were removed, just for clarification, those are valves... not pumps.

Using them is still perfectly safe, but tidying up the hoses and leaky connections obviously is a good idea.
Ok got it, thanks so much for the clarification. I’m starting to understand better now they used two because the 6 port is basically discontinued. Is there any way to test those before putting back together? Is it safe to run all hoses in rear end or do I need to use cross over hard lines from tanks?
 

jonbgood

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2024
Posts
15
Reaction score
6
Location
east bay area , California
First Name
Johnny
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
454
I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
Yes it has an original looking switch on dash with a 5 wire plugged into back.
 

jonbgood

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2024
Posts
15
Reaction score
6
Location
east bay area , California
First Name
Johnny
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
454
I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
Craig, I checked that thread didn’t see nothing about the 6 wire. That info would be helpful tho. Appreciate ya trying to point me in the rite direction
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,563
Reaction score
28,644
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Ok got it, thanks so much for the clarification. I’m starting to understand better now they used two because the 6 port is basically discontinued. Is there any way to test those before putting back together? Is it safe to run all hoses in rear end or do I need to use cross over hard lines from tanks?

Apply a ground wire to the mounting tab, and 12v to the harness connection. If they click, they work. At rest, the fuel flows through one inlet port. With 12v applied, the solenoid moves to let fuel flow through the other port.

Running rubber hose across the frame, while technically not "correct", is ok to do with proper routing.
 

jonbgood

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2024
Posts
15
Reaction score
6
Location
east bay area , California
First Name
Johnny
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
454
Apply a ground wire to the mounting tab, and 12v to the harness connection. If they click, they work. At rest, the fuel flows through one inlet port. With 12v applied, the solenoid moves to let fuel flow through the other port.

Running rubber hose across the frame, while technically not "correct", is ok to do with proper routing.
Thanks bucket. Now thinking of it that might have been the problem, when it was all connected there wasn’t a ground and it wasn’t bolted to frame it was just hanging,the return side valve
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,347
Posts
954,966
Members
36,590
Latest member
yonewstepdaddy
Top