Faulty rigged

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Camar068

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Yeah, it looks like the truck had a 6-port valve and they couldn't find one, so they used a pair of 3-port valves. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

However, I do see a glass fuel filter that absolutely has to go. If it's not leaking currently, it will be.
Agree, if your going to use that type of filter, it needs to be up by the carb where you can see it easily....and you be under the hood a lot to check it. Got rid of mine the first time it failed.
 

bucket

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Of those parts that were removed, just for clarification, those are valves... not pumps.

Using them is still perfectly safe, but tidying up the hoses and leaky connections obviously is a good idea.
 

bucket

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Agree, if your going to use that type of filter, it needs to be up by the carb where you can see it easily....and you be under the hood a lot to check it. Got rid of mine the first time it failed.

I had one of those glass filters about 25 years ago. One day it was fine, the next day it was spraying fuel all over my intake manifold. The sad part is, they still make them and the quality is even less than it used to be.
 

Craig Nedrow

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I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
 

jonbgood

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Of those parts that were removed, just for clarification, those are valves... not pumps.

Using them is still perfectly safe, but tidying up the hoses and leaky connections obviously is a good idea.
Ok got it, thanks so much for the clarification. I’m starting to understand better now they used two because the 6 port is basically discontinued. Is there any way to test those before putting back together? Is it safe to run all hoses in rear end or do I need to use cross over hard lines from tanks?
 

jonbgood

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I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
Yes it has an original looking switch on dash with a 5 wire plugged into back.
 

jonbgood

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I did this not to long ago. DO NOT USE the plastic/rubber rock shields. As stated they trap dirt, and cause rust on the outside, mine rusted through. Go here, this may help
Start on page 6 post 87, shows the replacement and wiring, on a six wire system, six port valve. Do you have a switch in the cab?
Craig, I checked that thread didn’t see nothing about the 6 wire. That info would be helpful tho. Appreciate ya trying to point me in the rite direction
 

bucket

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Ok got it, thanks so much for the clarification. I’m starting to understand better now they used two because the 6 port is basically discontinued. Is there any way to test those before putting back together? Is it safe to run all hoses in rear end or do I need to use cross over hard lines from tanks?

Apply a ground wire to the mounting tab, and 12v to the harness connection. If they click, they work. At rest, the fuel flows through one inlet port. With 12v applied, the solenoid moves to let fuel flow through the other port.

Running rubber hose across the frame, while technically not "correct", is ok to do with proper routing.
 

jonbgood

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Apply a ground wire to the mounting tab, and 12v to the harness connection. If they click, they work. At rest, the fuel flows through one inlet port. With 12v applied, the solenoid moves to let fuel flow through the other port.

Running rubber hose across the frame, while technically not "correct", is ok to do with proper routing.
Thanks bucket. Now thinking of it that might have been the problem, when it was all connected there wasn’t a ground and it wasn’t bolted to frame it was just hanging,the return side valve
 

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