BryanS
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That’s where I’m at. Plus it give me an excuse to buy pretty stainless hoses
Engine oil lines.
- Thread starter BryanS
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Ricko1966
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As for your flexplate cover,a 4x4 cover is cast and has bosses for braces to attach to. Your missing the braces also. At this point a 2wd cover is better than nothing,until you find braces and a 4wd cover. I actually ran with no cover in the past,I ran over a basketball I didn't see and wound it up in the flex plate,yes,something is better than nothing
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BryanS
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Describe said braces
they go on the outside of the cover and attach to what?BryanS
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This them? https://www.ebay.com/itm/197038280045Describe said braces
chris3353
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I run rubber the entire length,, Used automotive flare fittings at the cooler and filter.. Installed Gates hose rated for oil and pressure.. been that was for 200K miles
Ricko1966
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Dead link here's a pic I stole from @SquareRoot
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I am in the camp that the oil cooler is overkill unless you plan on doing heavy hauling. I did an LS swap on my blazer and deleted the oil cooler. I feel my application is a lot lighter than what that application was originally designed for. If you plan on keeping the cooler, I would change the fittings to AN and make AN lines to the cooler.
Old Guy Bill
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Lots of info out there on those old big blocks with those fittings.
Small plugs (like freeze plugs) or tapping them for threaded fittings was usual way back in the day.
Small plugs (like freeze plugs) or tapping them for threaded fittings was usual way back in the day.
BryanS
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Thank you
Yes that’s it. What are the braces bracing? Like keeping the cover in place? Or supporting the weight of the tranny?
Looks like they bolt to the frame or crossmember? I would think the 6 bolts would hold the cover on?
YakkoWarner
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My 1989 big block has the factory oil cooler hoses attaching to fittings on the filter assembly not directly into the block, but the correct lines are metal with a properly rated rubber section in the middle (hard lines all the way end to end would be prone to fatigue/breaking). The factory oil cooler lines on the British sports cars are the same way - metal fittings and short pipe on each end, rubber in the middle. So having rubber hose in the circuit isn't always wrong, but I'd want to see how these are attached - if its just a smooth metal end with the hose clamped on that could be bad. If those are the original metal parts there should be a barb at the end (and the remnants of a metal collar), where the original rubber hose would have been pushed on and then the crimping tool would have crushed the collar down similar to how hydraulic lines for heavy equipment are made (and those hoses take fantastically higher pressures than what our engine oil pumps could develop).
If there IS a barb on each end, good quality hose clamps would be OK if double clamped (similar to how below-waterline fittings on boats are done). I ran an MGB that way for years without problems when proper replacement parts were not (at the time) available. Those engines will build up to 80-90 PSI oil pressure, and the double clamp method worked just fine so I can't see why it wouldn't work on the 30-50 PSI we normally see on these Chevrolet engines (as long as there IS a barb present at the end of the metal part).
Based on how twisted that one end is, I'd still be inclined to replace because that metal has been stretched and stressed. Losing an oil line is never fun and certainly can get exciting (which is how I ended up with clamped on replacements with the MGB mentioned above).
