Do I rebuild my SBC or swap for an LS3?

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Ricko1966

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Edelbrock 7116 has a cross over passage. 77k20 wrote about it ,he plumbed it as his coolant bypass. What I did was modify the factory heat stove for the air cleaner for a bigger duct so I had to draw warm air exclusively. I think his solution is better.
 
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Ricko1966

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@DoubleDingo my pea brain got thinking a water heated carb spacer would do the same thing,ford used them on some applications and boats use them.
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Dude.
Ima Jegs guy , dont shop at Summit but both companies sell their own casting aluminum heads now for CHEAP. Assembled with springs n stuff for less than $400 each.
Heck you could get World Products SR heads and work em like I did of you want iron. Not much of a wash after the time/stress and additional expense of rebuilding your own unless you simply want to - and I get that - but its not like it used to be anymore. The good old boy cylinder head dudes are long gone in most cases ... Now your build hinges on some guy that DOESNT have 30 or 40 years experience with building SBC heads.
Sucks yeah but time marches on.
They closed the Politics thread here because of one new guy who isnt even a member anymore.

We fight the system now and all that greenpeace treehuggin hippy ship is over one mile per gallon.
Make it easy on yourself.
I speak of the military industrial complex for cars. It's only spending digital dollars that dont exist and youve got to see that. The money in your wallet represents no gold in the bank.

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The Summit and JEGS aluminum heads are basically an identical knockoff to the AFR Enforcer heads... and they are almost identical price wise to the link I gave to the Skip White ones. There was an Engine Masters episode where they ran all of the cheap summit, promaxx, and AFR enforcer heads back to back on the same engine and the price to performance went to the AFR Enforcer heads hands down.
 

Ricko1966

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There's a bunch of them on ebay and already figured out how to make one for spread bore if you can't find one.
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Bextreme04

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@DoubleDingo my pea brain got thinking a water heated carb spacer would do the same thing,ford used them on some applications and boats use them.
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They do different things. The heated carb spacers keep the carburetor from freezing up when there is moisture in the air, similar to how carb ice forms in aircraft engines. The heat crossover in the intake warms up the floor of the intake manifold so that it doesn't condense the fuel out of the air/fuel mixture and form droplets of liquid fuel along the bottom of the manifold.
 

Ricko1966

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Good to know,the problem I was having was carburetor icing,at temperatures just above freezing
 
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DoubleDingo

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Edelbrock 7116 has a cross over passage. 77k20 wrote about it ,he plumbed it as his coolant bypass. What I did was modify the factory heat stove for the air cleaner for a bigger duct so I had to draw warm air exclusively. I think his solution is better.
He did but was never happy with the way the truck ran in the cold. I followed his thread to see what he did.

Mine is great in the warm months. Dang near undriveable during the wintertime for the first 5 minutes or so, and then it has started to diesel when turning it off. It has never done that. All the factory items are on the engine except vortecs and spreadbore vortec intake, so it gets the warm air from the exhaust heat stove tube that goes to the air cleaner assembly. I guess I could spend $$$$ and get a MPFI unit, but I really don't want to. I'll look into different heads, and if we are able to move to a place that never gets cold, I can reinstall the vortecs.
 

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He did but was never happy with the way the truck ran in the cold. I followed his thread to see what he did.

Mine is great in the warm months. Dang near undriveable during the wintertime for the first 5 minutes or so, and then it has started to diesel when turning it off. It has never done that. All the factory items are on the engine except vortecs and spreadbore vortec intake, so it gets the warm air from the exhaust heat stove tube that goes to the air cleaner assembly. I guess I could spend $$$$ and get a MPFI unit, but I really don't want to. I'll look into different heads, and if we are able to move to a place that never gets cold, I can reinstall the vortecs.
Yeah- I was hoping that coolant passage on that manifold under the TBI would solve my problems. It just created new ones. I have tried TWO of those manifolds and both have porous castings. Both let coolant creep thru and onto the floor of the intake manifold. And until you get some coolant temps then you still get fuel puddling in the intake manifold. And since I have a TBI fuel injection the O2 sensor doesn't put up with it for long. I have had 3 go bad. Most recent one was just a few days ago.
My options are change to the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, or finding some "old style" aftermarket heads with heat crossover that works with a roller cam, or LS swap. All are $$$.
 

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Yeah- I was hoping that coolant passage on that manifold under the TBI would solve my problems. It just created new ones. I have tried TWO of those manifolds and both have porous castings. Both let coolant creep thru and onto the floor of the intake manifold. And until you get some coolant temps then you still get fuel puddling in the intake manifold. And since I have a TBI fuel injection the O2 sensor doesn't put up with it for long. I have had 3 go bad. Most recent one was just a few days ago.
My options are change to the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, or finding some "old style" aftermarket heads with heat crossover that works with a roller cam, or LS swap. All are $$$.
What a pain in the a$$
 

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I'd be looking for heads but there is another option TPI off a firebird/corvette/camaro.
 

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I'd be looking for heads but there is another option TPI off a firebird/corvette/camaro.
Interesting, although I have to do more research to see if it meets emissions requirements here. I don't want to have to tinker with something to hope that it'll pass, when I can swap on heads and intake and not have to worry about it. Here, it has to pass sniffer and visual. Since my truck came with a carburetor, it would be easier to just stick with that.
 

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I think heads would be the best choice,unless somebody had a cheap or free tpi setup laying around.
 

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tpi heads are win.

Never heard of no voodoO
"new heads may cause oil to get sucked past the rings. Checking the lower end is advisable when adding new or refreshing old heads. The bores could be out of round, the rings could be worn, etc."
stuff like this though. :rolleyes: wouldnt fret about it much.

Seems to me 500 bucks is a much better option than more than double that to create the same difference.
Not worth it?

Are you sure? Might oughta sleep on it prior to pullin any triggers. Sounds to me like that is your next best cheaper option -that involves no headache, wont put your truck out of commission and wont ever fail.

What else is there? Are there other options? $500 sounds pretty good to me. :shrug:
Be sure to install the copper shim head gaskets and bump the compression what ya can.
 
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77 K20

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tpi heads are win.

Never heard of no voodo
"new heads may cause oil to get sucked past the rings. Checking the lower end is advisable when adding new or refreshing old heads. The bores could be out of round, the rings could be worn, etc."
stuff like this though. :rolleyes: wouldnt fret about it much.
It can happen. On my old 400 I bought it and found out later some lobes on the cam were wiped out. Replaced the cam. Then my dad upgraded the heads on his 290hp 350 crate. They only had a few thousand miles on them so I put them on the 400. Instantly started using a ton of oil. It never leaked, couldn't see it burn, but would use a quart every few hundred miles.
So gave that engine away and bought a crate 383... and then had all new headaches and a money pit. :rolleyes:
 

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tpi heads are win.

Never heard of no voodo
"new heads may cause oil to get sucked past the rings. Checking the lower end is advisable when adding new or refreshing old heads. The bores could be out of round, the rings could be worn, etc."
stuff like this though. :rolleyes: wouldnt fret about it much.

Seems to me 500 bucks is a much better option than more than double that to create the same difference.
Not worth it?

Are you sure? Might oughta sleep on it prior to pullin any triggers. Sounds to me like that is your next best cheaper option -that involves no headache, wont put your truck out of commission and wont ever fail.

What else is there? Are there other options? $500 sounds pretty good to me. :shrug:
Be sure to install the copper shim head gaskets and bump the compression what ya can.
Well, it's $500 for rebuild smogger heads or reworked double humps, or $750 for brand new big valve high flow iron heads with a heat crossover.... I agree, seems like a no brainer to get the new, much better design, iron heads. Those aluminums would be awesome on a TPI system for sure though!
 

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