dana 44 or 60 for my crewcab

[Frankenchevy]

uno tonelada ejes del camión familia por vida, eses!

 

[climb-101]

So you're thinking 4" spring and 1" zero-rate? That's a good combo, and with the zero rate you can move your front axle forward an inch and half. This will give you a bit more tire clearance to the back part of the fender opening.

I will never recommend any more than 1" body lift. Any more and eventually the cab will start to jiggle around cause drama, including wearing out the cab mounts. One inch is perfect! You can wash the mud and grit off your frame better, there is more room for pulling the dizzy when that needs to happen.

In order to run 38s you would need drastic fender trimming, sorry to say. With the shape of your truck and all that trim, it would be a crime to chop it up.
You can however run 35s with the 'adjustments' I have suggested. Don't use rims with any more backspacing than 4" or rim width over 8.5" Wider rims and/or less backspacing will only help rubber meet metal.
But even with all this, if you get the truck twisted up and turn the wheel at full stuff you will have metal to rubber grief.

yep 4” lift and the zero rates. only reasoning for the 2” body lift was everything i have seen said you have to do that to fit the 4wd stuff under the 2wd cab. but then again i could always just drop the motor/trany down a little and just make my own mounts and cross members. i’m not afraid of a little fab work.

here is the last thing i built. it’s all on a 2001 suburban frame with 35” tires. still running all factory electrical, used the chevy interior, sealed the firewalls so all the AC brake booster/master/pedals all just bolt in.

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[bucket]

yep 4” lift and the zero rates. only reasoning for the 2” body lift was everything i have seen said you have to do that to fit the 4wd stuff under the 2wd cab. but then again i could always just drop the motor/trany down a little and just make my own mounts and cross members. i’m not afraid of a little fab work.

here is the last thing i built. it’s all on a 2001 suburban frame with 35” tires. still running all factory electrical, used the chevy interior, sealed the firewalls so all the AC brake booster/master/pedals all just bolt in.

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You should probably post more about this in the "other vehicles" area

And I like how you did the cluster bezel, it resembles the original.

 

[shiftpro]

You should probably post more about this in the "other vehicles" area

Like a Ford forum for example?

 

[bucket]

Like a Ford forum for example?

Haha, no. It's on a Suburban frame and the 70's furd trucks weren't awful looking.

 

[Craig 85]

i knew the frames were not the same from the 4x4 to the 2x4. What i didnt know is that the crew cabs have more of a 1 ton frame. Im not opposed to trimming fenders a little to get 38s to fit but i dont really want to cut up the truck. what size tire do you think i can fit under it if i have 5" of suspension lift and 2" body lift?

My K30 is the first 1 ton I've had. I just put on a 3" lift I my truck and compared to the '79 K15 with a 4" lift I had prior to this, my K30 is an inch taller in measurement from my axle centers to the longitudinal body line than the K15. So basically, my 3" lift is more like a 5" lift compared to a 1/2 ton 4" lift.

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[Battlac40]

3in lift? From where? 2in shakle flip, 1in hanger?? Or a 3in body lift??

 

[Craig 85]

3in lift? From where? 2in shakle flip, 1in hanger?? Or a 3in body lift??

Tuff Country makes 3" front springs in soft or HD. I'm running an HD spring with a 3" block in the rear. I did not see the springs listed on their web site. I actually found them on ORD's. Also @climb-101, you will need shocks that are 2-3 inches longer than a standard K20 when you lift your truck. I had to use a shock designed for a 6" lift.

 

[climb-101]

Tuff Country makes 3" front springs in soft or HD. I'm running an HD spring with a 3" block in the rear. I did not see the springs listed on their web site. I actually found them on ORD's. Also @climb-101, you will need shocks that are 2-3 inches longer than a standard K20 when you lift your truck. I had to use a shock designed for a 6" lift.

ya i know i will need longer shocks. i figured once i got the lift all don’t i would figure those out and get some good ones.

 

[climb-101]

any body got any info on steering. i’m looking at doing the cross over with high steering and hydraulic assist.

 

[77 K20]

any body got any info on steering. i’m looking at doing the cross over with high steering and hydraulic assist.

This will show why a D60 was easier to do cross over steering vs a D44:

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana44crossover.htm

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60CrossoverAndHighSteer.htm

I have a D44 on my truck and wish I had a D60. I keep getting it into rough spots and haven't broken anything yet, but it is on my mind.