Brakes still dont work.

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randomTruckKid

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I replaced my master cylender when I was doing my cab swap. I have also replaced both rear wheele cylenders and both front calipers. However. My brakes when the truck was on. Didn't work but the last inch. I decided to take the master off and bench bleed it, then re bleed (gravity) the rest.
Now it works a little better but still not very well.

Any solutions?
 

legopnuematic

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Are the rear brake shoes adjusted correctly?
 

randomTruckKid

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Didn't work :/
Though the pedal is pretty stiff when the truck is off.
 

randomTruckKid

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How far out can one of thoes star gears go? I remember yesterday it seemed like neither of my rear drums were properly adjusted.
One had 8 threads out and the other had 10. But I didn't know if you could un screw one of thoes or not.
 

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How far out can one of thoes star gears go? I remember yesterday it seemed like neither of my rear drums were properly adjusted.
One had 8 threads out and the other had 10. But I didn't know if you could un screw one of thoes or not.
If you don’t know that, then great chance the rear brakes are loose and causing a lot of pedal travel (fluid) before engaging. Also if they are not new adjuster wheels, should disassemble them, clean and lube the threads as a matter of course so the brakes can adjust easily and properly over time.
# of threads not being the same side to side is not an accurate indicator on anything except maybe new drums and shoes both sides, but still not how to judge proper adjustment.
Rears should be adjusted until they hang just slightly and then back off just a bit.
 

SirRobyn0

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If you don’t know that, then great chance the rear brakes are loose and causing a lot of pedal travel (fluid) before engaging. Also if they are not new adjuster wheels, should disassemble them, clean and lube the threads as a matter of course so the brakes can adjust easily and properly over time.
# of threads not being the same side to side is not an accurate indicator on anything except maybe new drums and shoes both sides, but still not how to judge proper adjustment.
Rears should be adjusted until they hang just slightly and then back off just a bit.
This is very sound advice.
Get the rear brakes adjusted up properly. Don't matter if the adjusters are out a different amount, could be a lot of reasons and none of them matter.
Once the rear brakes are adjusted properly you should have a good brake pedal.

If you still have a soft pedal after getting the rears adjusted properly then there is either air still left in the lines or the master is defective. Also I will just add that gravity bleeding is ok, but not always 100%, you can sometimes get air trapped in places and it doesn't want to come out without pressure.

So if I were you I'd
#1. Get the rear brakes adjusted up
If pedal is still to soft
#2. Bleed the brakes with an assitant pumping the pedal.
If pedal is still to soft
#3. Get the master cylinder exchanged at the parts store because it must be bad out of the box.

Good luck, hopefully you just need to adjust the brakes.
 

randomTruckKid

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This is very sound advice.
Get the rear brakes adjusted up properly. Don't matter if the adjusters are out a different amount, could be a lot of reasons and none of them matter.
Once the rear brakes are adjusted properly you should have a good brake pedal.

If you still have a soft pedal after getting the rears adjusted properly then there is either air still left in the lines or the master is defective. Also I will just add that gravity bleeding is ok, but not always 100%, you can sometimes get air trapped in places and it doesn't want to come out without pressure.

So if I were you I'd
#1. Get the rear brakes adjusted up
If pedal is still to soft
#2. Bleed the brakes with an assitant pumping the pedal.
If pedal is still to soft
#3. Get the master cylinder exchanged at the parts store because it must be bad out of the box.

Good luck, hopefully you just need to adjust the brakes.
Thank you.
I guess i should've mentioned. I out the thread count of the star gears in case someone was like me and just happend to know how many can come out. The difference is from me messing with one.

I have a feeling the master might be bad (aftermarket one i bought). It has always, no matter how much bleeding, made a goose sound at the end of the stroke.

I've also bled the brakes 2x since the gravity bleed so there isn't anything in the lines.

If the master turns out to be bad I'll just put back on the original one. Maybe spray paint it chrome or smth.
 

SirRobyn0

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Thank you.
I guess i should've mentioned. I out the thread count of the star gears in case someone was like me and just happend to know how many can come out. The difference is from me messing with one.

I have a feeling the master might be bad (aftermarket one i bought). It has always, no matter how much bleeding, made a goose sound at the end of the stroke.

I've also bled the brakes 2x since the gravity bleed so there isn't anything in the lines.

If the master turns out to be bad I'll just put back on the original one. Maybe spray paint it chrome or smth.
Why did you pull the original one in the first place?
 

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If it ain't broke don't fix it. The adjusters thread out almost the whole length of the female part. It's quite a lot.
 

randomTruckKid

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Devised a little plan for tmr:
Going to correct the adjustment on the drums. If that dosnt work. I'm just going to put the old master back in.

I'm tired of this thing not driving. I wanna get it on the road and move on.
 

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Make sure you have the correct brake shoes. Brakes for these trucks range from 11", 11-5/32", and 13". Sizes are based on the width of the brake shoes. 2", 2-3/4", and 2-1/2". Respectively. You can find the correct Service Option Code (RPO) on the sticker located on the glove box door or inner fender panel that will tell you what the original inside diameter of the brake drum is/was. Ref: Chilton Repair Manual.
 

randomTruckKid

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Helped a little but the brakes are still very squishy. Just going to put the old master on. The current one still makes a goose sound
 

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