Squishy brakes

[justinbrugg]

Based on that part number that is a disc/drum master.

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just ordered a new master thanks for figuring that out for me. Bought the master cyl a long time ago probably before I thought about doing a disc brake swap.

 

[justinbrugg]

I did read your replies, #8 you said you matched it up the best you could online to 7387bb-mc. There are too many things going on here you bought this here,that there, I don't know what parts you have,which ones match wh8ch 9nes are new,which ones were new at one point,and it's hard to get you to answer a question with a straight answer. How many times did I have to ask can you get a pedal parked. It was a yes or no question. I'm done. Good luck.

If I could get a good pedal parked I wouldn’t be here man. Sorry about the confusion with part numbers didn’t mean for that to be confusing. I guess I found my answer though. Thank you for your help.

 

[Ricko1966]

If I could get a good pedal parked I wouldn’t be here man. Sorry about the confusion with part numbers didn’t mean for that to be confusing. I guess I found my answer though. Thank you for your help.

So if you good pedal parked but no pedal on the road,you'd have been happy and never posted? Hmm seems strange. I asked about pedal parked, because it was relevant to diagnose your problem. Good pedal parked,bad on the road I would not be looking at hydraulics first. I'd have been looking at mechanical,pads being pushed in by bad rotors or loose wheel bearings. Wanted to know the master check to check compatibility,didn't even know you bought it from Summit until you got smart on one of your last posts. Tried to find it yesterday typing in cpp and the number you gave to no luck. What vendor helped a bunch letting someone know where you got it and determine it was wrong. Don't get smart with people that are trying to help you,instead be cooperative and give them as much info as you can.

 

[justinbrugg]

So if you good pedal parked but no pedal on the road,you'd have been happy and never posted? Hmm seems strange. I asked about pedal parked, because it was relevant to diagnose your problem. Good pedal parked,bad on the road I would not be looking at hydraulics first. I'd have been looking at mechanical,pads being pushed in by bad rotors or loose wheel bearings. Wanted to know the master check to check compatibility,didn't even know you bought it from Summit until you got smart on one of your last posts. Tried to find it yesterday typing in cpp and the number you gave to no luck. What vendor helped a bunch letting someone know where you got it and determine it was wrong. Don't get smart with people that are trying to help you,instead be cooperative and give them as much info as you can.

I’m sorry man I think we’re on the wrong page. It’s hard to understand the context of messages and meaning behind them. Think it would have made more sense face to face. I told you that it’s equally as soft stationary and running. I could have been more direct but I was trying to say there’s no difference and they’re both equally soft when running & stationary. That being said I had soft brakes in the first place. I get that my message about the master cyl. was confusing. I wrote that before I fell asleep and looking back it does sound like it was a half a** guess on what I had, but that was the correct master. I was able to find the master using the part number I sent you and didn’t really know that you wanted it from a specific website, but I may have missed that. it wasn’t just a master cylinder, but a booster and master. Maybe that’s why you didn’t see it? I didn’t have and disrespectful intent on any of my messages I think they were misconstrued through message. I’m not a great texter and I may have written messages too quickly. I was looking for help and I did appreciate your help and everyone else’s genuinely. But aside from that I found my answer from you and a few other people. New valve and a disk disk master cylinder. Ordered the parts so hopefully it all works. Thank you for your time and sorry we got on the wrong foot.

 

[Ricko1966]

Did the truck have power brakes before you started this adventure? If you added a booster on a non booster vehicle the pushrod usually needs to be moved to a different location on the pedal,which changes the throw.

 

[justinbrugg]

Did the truck have power brakes before you started this adventure? If you added a booster on a non booster vehicle the pushrod usually needs to be moved to a different location on the pedal,which changes the throw.

no power brakes when I started. The kit came with an adjustable pedal rod and it’s pulled out enough to where it doesn’t just hit the floor.

 

[Ricko1966]

Don't care about the adjustable pushrod,it needs to be located in the correct position on the pedal,or you will never have decent brakes,it's a different amount of travel if you move it on the pedal.

 

[justinbrugg]

Don't care about the adjustable pushrod,it needs to be located in the correct position on the pedal,or you will never have decent brakes,it's a different amount of travel if you move it on the pedal.

i haven’t done anything with the rod positioning. I’m just a little confused. Is the geometry different because it takes more force to push non boosted brakes? Thus meaning it’s better to position the rod closer to the pivot point for more torque? The main problem I’m having is that it takes multiple pumps on the brakes to get a somewhat acceptable brake even if you completely push the brake to the floor. The pedal does have a longer throw so I’ll definitely mess with that tomorrow.

 

[Ricko1966]

If you move the pushrod you will get more stroke Imagine a teeter totter the further you get from the pivot point the more travel,same with your pedal. Further from the pivot point is more movement. Get someone with a power brake truck to measure how far from the pivot point their pushrod is located,compare to yours. Normall a power brake vehicle will have the pushorod further from the pivot point than a non power car.I'd check it for you but can't until Thursday. Also there is a pushrod in the booster, that should have adjustment checked,there should be .020 clearance between the end of the pushrod and the master. It takes a special tool to check it,but you can do it without the tool,just not as easy. Google it. And you still don't understand parked vs. Not parked or I don't understand what you are trying to tell me. I'm not concerned about engine running or not. What I was talking about was it is possible to have a good pedal in a vehicle that is parked,but not have a good pedal if the truck has rolled at all,loose wheel bearings will allow the rotor to push the pads in,just like you had pushed them in to change them,so will warped rotors,so in either case it is possible to end up with a pedal you have to pump if the vehicle has moved. That is why I kept asking can you get a good pedal parked

 

[justinbrugg]

If you move the pushrod you will get more stroke Imagine a teeter totter the further you get from the pivot point the more travel,same with your pedal. Further from the pivot point is more movement. Get someone with a power brake truck to measure how far from the pivot point their pushrod is located,compare to yours. Normall a power brake vehicle will have the pushorod further from the pivot point than a non power car.I'd check it for you but can't until Thursday. Also there is a pushrod in the booster, that should have adjustment checked,there should be .020 clearance between the end of the pushrod and the master. It takes a special tool to check it,but you can do it without the tool,just not as easy. Google it. And you still don't understand parked vs. Not parked or I don't understand what you are trying to tell me. I'm not concerned about engine running or not. What I was talking about was it is possible to have a good pedal in a vehicle that is parked,but not have a good pedal if the truck has rolled at all,loose wheel bearings will allow the rotor to push the pads in,just like you had pushed them in to change them,so will warped rotors,so in either case it is possible to end up with a pedal you have to pump if the vehicle has moved. That is why I kept asking can you get a good pedal parked

Ok makes sense. Yeah I was just saying it’s the same when the car is moving and not moving. Wasn’t really referring to the motor running. Just mentioned the brake booster and low vacuum because I thought that would be helpful in some way. Guess it wasn’t

 

[Ricko1966]

Lookie what I found. This should cover everything including changing pedal ratio.

Classic Chevy, Chevrolet, GMC, Ford technical articles

Classic Car, Classic Trucks Tech Articles - Classic Performance Products

www.classicperform.com

 

[justinbrugg]

Lookie what I found. This should cover everything including changing pedal ratio.

Classic Chevy, Chevrolet, GMC, Ford technical articles

Classic Car, Classic Trucks Tech Articles - Classic Performance Products

www.classicperform.com

Thanks!

 

[ballencd]

Ricko1966, You should have let it go back in the thread on post #14 like you said you were going to do. IMO you started out in a bad mood. I hope you get over it soon.

 

[Ricko1966]

Ballencd I'm fine,yep I was frustrated,I couldn't get straight answers to important questions to diagnose his problem. But once we got past that,see where he learned about pedal ratios,pin placements etc. and how many things O.P. didn't think mattered,that did. I helped with that. You didn't. I hope you have a nice night.

 

[Radiohead]

I’ve tried pulling the rear calipers off and oriented them so the bleeder valve was facing upwards.

I think I found the problem.