Before you string me up ..

[waterpirate]

So I stopped by my local spring shop today, and got a " take it somewhere else price". $3,650.00 for new stock springs with helpers to lift the truck 2 inches. OMG! Another good plan down the drain. So that brings me to " how rough is rough country?" Compared to everyone else, there 2 inch kit with rear springs not blocks is 1/2 the price of everyone else and includes everything needed including new shocks, bushings, the works.
Are the other options really twice the ride comfort and quality?
I am totally confused.
Eric

 

[Grit dog]

Well Grit, he was actually hooked to two other trucks at the time; pavement gives maximum grip when doing "crazy redneck stuff" like pulling against one another...or two if you have a big ego. He had a big ego and a heavy right foot.
I don't have a phobia about using lift blocks in the rear but I definitely advise not to use them in the front. My K5 has some 4" blocks in the rear of it now and it has been beat and hammered on pretty hard. I'll check the ubolts about once a year and look to make certain that the king pin is still set and the block is not walking or turning sideways on the spring.

I agree with you whole-heartedly, and whatever that dude did sounds like a good time for all involved, except him! LOL
And yes, front blocks = a hard pass from me as well. Which is likely why the OP is doing something aboot it as well.

 

[Grit dog]

Grit, not sure of lift in back. I don't know what stock height is. Getting ready to put 4 degree pinion shims in rear, so that might add another half inch. I don't think Skyjacker makes a 2" softride leaf. I'll have to wait to get measurements.

Does it have any blocks in back? Look like original springs? Are those 33s or 35s we're looking at? (I dont recall from your new tires thread)
Your steering arm looks like a smaller drop than mine with what I believe to be a 4" lift. But your drag link geometry looks good. If I get a chance I'll measure the drop in my steering/pittman arm for comparison.
That said, @Redfish truck is a good visual comparo for a known set of springs.

 

[Bextreme04]

Tuff country or skyjacker will be the softest ride other than custom like Deaver or ORD.

I got a set of Tuff Country 4" springs locally for $100 and I pretty regularly see them come up for sale for $1-200

 

[Ron Sebastian]

Lift blocks on a front axle is never a good thing.

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Obviously, the taller block the more the law of physics multiples. Example: the brakes are on the axle level, the mass that the brakes have to stop is exponentially higher the taller the block. The only item holding that mass are 4 u-bolts.

Now, think of that stubborn bolt/nut you can't break free with your ratchet. So you grab a breaker bar and it still won't break loose. So you grab a pipe to slide over the breaker bar handle. Then either one of 3 things happen; the bolt/nut breaks loose, the socket splits, or the breaker bar attachment breaks off.

Now do you really want to drive a vehicle with lift blocks knowing you have the possibility of hurting yourself, loved ones, or someone else.

DVD, did you read the OPs first post? I'm assuming you just look at pictures. I am asking a question that will fix my block issue. Your post is no help.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

Does it have any blocks in back? Look like original springs? Are those 33s or 35s we're looking at? (I dont recall from your new tires thread)
Your steering arm looks like a smaller drop than mine with what I believe to be a 4" lift. But your drag link geometry looks good. If I get a chance I'll measure the drop in my steering/pittman arm for comparison.
That said, @Redfish truck is a good visual comparo for a known set of springs.

Tires are 33s no blocks in the back, only in the front.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

So I stopped by my local spring shop today, and got a " take it somewhere else price". $3,650.00 for new stock springs with helpers to lift the truck 2 inches. OMG! Another good plan down the drain. So that brings me to " how rough is rough country?" Compared to everyone else, there 2 inch kit with rear springs not blocks is 1/2 the price of everyone else and includes everything needed including new shocks, bushings, the works.
Are the other options really twice the ride comfort and quality?
I am totally confused.
Eric

Eric, I replaced all the bushings last year with ORD kevlars and greaseable bolts. The present project is to install pinion shims in the back to change the driveline angle and hopefully get rid of an annoying vibration. Then get rid of the blocks in the front with soft ride springs and by the way keep the truck lines as they are.

 

[Grit dog]

Tires are 33s no blocks in the back, only in the front.

Then it looks like the exact same height as @Redfish truck.
And his springs are brand new and I’ve never seen front springs that didn’t settle in a bit after some miles. So it looks like 2.5-3” springs are what you’re after.

 

[Redfish]

Then it looks like the exact same height as @Redfish truck.
And his springs are brand new and I’ve never seen front springs that didn’t settle in a bit after some miles. So it looks like 2.5-3” springs are what you’re after.

I am really hoping they do settle in a bit. The truck is almost level...but not quite. I hate the tail down look. The truck already had 2 inch blocks in the rear and I probably won't mess with it.

I keep thinking that a nice winch and winch bumper would settle the front nicely!

 

[Strick]

The last new lift kit that I bought and used was for my 85 CUCV. Superlift advertised this as a 3.5 lift for the K30. Trucks with Dana 60's sit an inch or so higher due to the raised spring pad on the passenger side of the differential housing. I was able to run 36 IROKs with the lift and a bit of fender trimming.
Getting a 2 inch lift for the 1/2 ton truck should clear the 33's with no problem; a 4 inch lift should be overkill. Here's a pic with the 37 radials and 36 IROKs.

Strickland

 

[Bextreme04]

I am really hoping they do settle in a bit. The truck is almost level...but not quite. I hate the tail down look. The truck already had 2 inch blocks in the rear and I probably won't mess with it.

I keep thinking that a nice winch and winch bumper would settle the front nicely!

Or a 454 would settle it down nicely too!

There is a company in Portland that makes shackle brackets and also a hidden behind the bumper winch mounting system that is pretty awesome. They are called engineered vintage and the quality is top notch.
https://engineeredvintage.com/

 

[Grit dog]

I am really hoping they do settle in a bit. The truck is almost level...but not quite. I hate the tail down look. The truck already had 2 inch blocks in the rear and I probably won't mess with it.

I keep thinking that a nice winch and winch bumper would settle the front nicely!

That it would! (And because I'm a nice generous person, my beautiful billet grille is heavier than your OEM plastic grille and I would trade you straight across to help you with your situation! LOL)

 

[Ron Sebastian]

Going for the 2.5 Skyjacker. Cannot afford one more inch of lift or it won't fit past the 7' garage door.

 

[dvdswan]

DVD, did you read the OPs first post? I'm assuming you just look at pictures. I am asking a question that will fix my block issue. Your post is no help.

I did, that's why I didn't blast him. My post is more for the unknowing individual that happens to read the thread.

 

[Redfish]

That it would! (And because I'm a nice generous person, my beautiful billet grille is heavier than your OEM plastic grille and I would trade you straight across to help you with your situation! LOL)

I still have the original plastic grill which I would be happy to ship to you. It doesn't have the GMC letters, I swapped them over to the new grill. BTW, it wasn't very expensive. I was about to repaint/refresh when I realized it just wasn't cost effective.

@Ron Sebastian please post up some pics when you are done. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.