Anyone Ever heard of Electrolysis ???

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HotRodPC

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Here's a good thread to wake up. 6.5 years old but I was just talking about this process and this Olds 425 to @66nailhead.
 

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Check out this rusty junk ass Olds 425 @oldpainless . Go back to page 1 and see the process.
 

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wish I'd seen this sooner lol.
 

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I tell people all the time, nothing can't be fixed until I say it can't be fixed, and nothing is junk til I say it's junk. :laughing1: I paid $20 for that complete engine and it included a Turbo 400 with Variable Pitch Torque Converter. Sold the block for $200, $100 for the crank, $100 for the heads and sold a few brackets that probably brought another $100. And I still have the Variable Pitch Transmission and converter.
 

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Had anyone done any elecrolysis projects lately? I recently bought me a cheap NON Automatic battery charger to clean some stuff up.

I'm finding you don't want to use one of these Automatic battery chargers for these projects. Automatic are the type that have the regulator built in start shutting down the closer you get to a full battery charge. Those wouldn't be good for this process.
 

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what do you use for your electrical connections i see the copper but it it just pipe or what is it. I am thinking of rebuilding a 350 for the hell of it. Plus then I can help my friend rebuild his firebird 350
 

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what do you use for your electrical connections i see the copper but it it just pipe or what is it. I am thinking of rebuilding a 350 for the hell of it. Plus then I can help my friend rebuild his firebird 350
You just use the battery cable clamps on the battery charger. Yes, I did use copper tubing. That was like my 1st real big project and I hadn't yet fine tuned the process. I later found out you should NOT USE COPPER for your electrode and for sure don't use stainless since it can be toxic and harmful. Just use a piece of scrap steel as your electrode. Doesn't matter what it it. You prefer something you can bend into a circle or half circle and kind of surround your part if possible for best results. For small parts, I've even used a large bolt and it worked great.

You don't have to use this process on every engine rebuild. This was just to revive a seriously rusted very rare block. Had it been a Chevy 350 where they're a dime a dozen, I probably would have just **** canned it but I had nothing to lose so I tried it and it worked out well.
 

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I have a cast iron intake I want to try this on. Some really good results on that engine block!!
 

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You just use the battery cable clamps on the battery charger. Yes, I did use copper tubing. That was like my 1st real big project and I hadn't yet fine tuned the process. I later found out you should NOT USE COPPER for your electrode and for sure don't use stainless since it can be toxic and harmful. Just use a piece of scrap steel as your electrode. Doesn't matter what it it. You prefer something you can bend into a circle or half circle and kind of surround your part if possible for best results. For small parts, I've even used a large bolt and it worked great.

You don't have to use this process on every engine rebuild. This was just to revive a seriously rusted very rare block. Had it been a Chevy 350 where they're a dime a dozen, I probably would have just **** canned it but I had nothing to lose so I tried it and it worked out well.
I figured it would be easy enough to do and if i ruin a 350 block who cares. I know if the block is not rusted you don't need to do it. now the copper tubing seems to look easy to bend and if i leave the barrel outside how bad could it be? Another thing is can i just use tap water or distilled the way to go?
 

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This is pretty cool would work good for cleaning small parts in a 5 gal pail also. Is there a reason to use this over muratic acid or no? That stuff seems to work pretty good just dont breath it in!
 

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I have a cast iron intake I want to try this on. Some really good results on that engine block!!
The before results were after I picked it up from the machine shop after being hot dipped and rinsed. He called to tell me no dice, block is trash, there is to much rust throughout and as it broke loose in the engine it would trash the new bearings. Told me it was scrap, we've worked on it, left it in for 3 cycles with other parts, it just can't be saved. I went and picked it up and asked what I owed him. He said well, since can't use it, I'll eat this one, we did soak it with other parts so we'll be OK, are you really picking it up? I put it in the scrap pile. I said Yes, you know how rare that block is I have to try and save it. I took it back about 4 days later. He wanted to know where the hell I can come up with these old rare blocks like this, I said that's the same one, he said NO it isn't. Noway is it the same. I said look where you stamped your invoice # and tell me it's not the same block. Then I showed him pics of the process and he just sit there with his mouth open. He couldn't believe it and yelled for his wife, come here, you're not going to believe this. She about **** too.
 

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This is pretty cool would work good for cleaning small parts in a 5 gal pail also. Is there a reason to use this over muratic acid or no? That stuff seems to work pretty good just dont breath it in!
Small parts in 5 gallon buckets gets great results. You can use whatever you want if it works for rust removal. The thing I liked about this process is, I just let it soak and cook overnight, no labor. And it releases and pulls the rust from the innards too where you're not going to be able to get a wire brush or other tool in there to scrape, sand or brush it away. The process releases the rust and then the rust is carried to the electrode like a magnet and sticks to it. If you can get a perfect combo set up, and you have to experiment with different things for different projects, then I'd go this route every time. I've had great sucess with engines, heads and transmission pumps that I've found sitting out in pastures for over 20 years. Old Pontiac, Olds, Buick Nailheads, Variable Pitch Th400's etc. It was a gold mine out there and I bought them all for $20 each complete engines with brackets and all, and a Th400 or Th350 attatched to them. The people even gave me 1 for FREE if I'd take it. They were more concerned about getting the junk hauled off than making money.
 

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In a plastic bucket what do you attach the other charger clamp to? The bucket? Or do you have a wire or rod bolted to the piece being cleaned that you clamp onto and then clamp the other to the electrode? A metal container I can see just clamping to the container and then the electrode. But plastic isn't as good of a conductor.
 

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In a plastic bucket what do you attach the other charger clamp to? The bucket? Or do you have a wire or rod bolted to the piece being cleaned that you clamp onto and then clamp the other to the electrode? A metal container I can see just clamping to the container and then the electrode. But plastic isn't as good of a conductor.

Oops...DUH...it's on the first page...lol... That's what happens when one skims through and doesn't pay close attention to the photos.
 

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Yep, just make sure whatever container you're using is plastic or something that doesn't conduct electricity. Then clamp to the part being cleaned, and clamp to whatever you use for the electrode.
 

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