Anyone Ever heard of Electrolysis ???

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crazy4offroad

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You may see the results on the head wherever the chain is bolted to, in the form of more rust removed at both ends. Hard to say, but WTG mixing it up trying for better results.
 

89Suburban

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ROCK ON HRPC, LMAFAO!!!! :popcorn:
 

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I thought of that too, that although the process appears to working the same, I just might have better results in the end since it should be cleaning at both ends working its way inward, instead of starting in the center working outward. Even if no difference, I'm still happy with the last progress on the last head.
Yeah, that's the way I roll. I try different things to see what can improve performance or results. Its a fascinating process and after all, it saves old heavy iron parts that woudl normally end up in the scrap yard, so you can bet your ass, I'll do what I can to save old OEM parts. As I've said over and over again, its an experimental process and the only way it'll ever be improved is by trying different things and figuring out how it works. For example, we now know about the line of the sight cleaning and surrounding the part. Now I'll try to figure out, if more connections to the part will improve it too. Although, Dave hasn't had much success yet, I'm still learning from his attempts too and figuring things out about the process. I had read on one site, that rebar was a great product to use. I don't think I'm so impressed with rebar. But of course, if using thicker rebar that was basically clean, and it was able to bend it in a way like the shape of a coil or round spring around the item being cleaned, it may be a great product. :shrug: We won't know till we test it.
 

89Suburban

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LMAFAO !!! ???? Whats funny??? Did I fugg something up???
I am happy to see this after dealing with holiday family crapola all day, and the bent piece of PVC tubing looks funny hoss. :birgits_tiredcoffee
 

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I am happy to see this after dealing with holiday family crapola all day, and the bent piece of PVC tubing looks funny hoss. :birgits_tiredcoffee

Ahhh yeah, but it worked out great cuz it was able to flex and hold tension on the chain. Its working like a spring to tighten up the slack in the chain and hold the links tightly together. Process is still cooking, on about 6.5 hours now and still matching about what the last head did as far as looks of the process and the red electrolyte. But member, like I am going to do with that other, I'll also take the valves out and run it again. I did try getting the valves out of that other head. They are stuck pretty good in the valve guides, so I think I'll let the machine shop get the valves and guides out for me, also magnaflux them to make sure they are worth working on, then pick them up and do the process again, and take the heads back for the vavle job after I run the process again.
 

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BTW, a bit off topic for the thread, but for these heads, I intend to grind out the AIR and EGR bumps if any, a little gasket match porting, polish the exhaust ports before I have the heads worked on too. Since I am having to replace all the valves and the valves cost is the same for the 2.0 and 2.07 valves, I think I'm gonna have him put in the larger intake valves, also hardened stainless valve seats with triple maybe even 5 angle grind. All new vavle guides, new valve springs that will match the cam I choose etc. I was shooting for 500hp out of this motor, but wanting to keep it very streetable, I think I am toning down to about 450hp, but it'll still be worth 500ft lb of torque. Just so long as it puts a spankin on these newer 325-330hp newer lighter weight trucks, then it'll accomplish what I want it to.
 

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No soaking the head in PB Blaster for a few days and trying again man? I seen there was a valve stuck open in a pic. I was wondering. Soak it, tap it, soak it, work it back and forth a little at a time? Can valve guides be replaced or just reamed to the next size?
 

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No soaking the head in PB Blaster for a few days and trying again man? I seen there was a valve stuck open in a pic. I was wondering. Soak it, tap it, soak it, work it back and forth a little at a time? Can valve guides be replaced or just reamed to the next size?

Those vavles wouldn't move for jack BEFORE the Electolysis. But, they close after I did the process. Just tapped them with a plastic dead blow hammer and they closed easily. I think its the valve keepers that are stuck. My valve spring compressor doesn't seem to be stout enough to compress the spring retainer off the keeper. Either that the keepers are stuck like I suggested. I know my machinist has much better tools than I do and can probably strip the valves out in about 15 minutes where it would probably take me 4x that IF my compressor was strong enough, and being the removing the vales is part of the valve and included in the price, I'll let him do it.
 

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Cool man, any updates?
 

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Yeah, it worked about the same, but this head had even more rust. And this head just might be junk. No joke. After this process, I was able to get several layers of rust off in big pieces. I got a handful of rust just feel out of the ports. After closer look, it looks like the head was rusted so bad, it has eaten away part of the webbing between the 2 exhaust ports in the center of the head where the exhaust manifold bolts up. I want to rerun the head again, then I'll take comparison photos of the 1st head I cleaned and this head. If that is the only place the rust ate the iron way, I think I'd still use it. It all goes to the same big hole in the exhaust manifold anyway, and the exhaust manifold doesn't seperate the 2 ports, so not likes it gonna cause a leak between cylinders. But yeah, its pretty bad, and I MIGHT be calling this head junk. When I say its junk, you can trust, its junk.
 

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Holy smokes. :(
 

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I said alot more than Holy Smokes !!! Its a fact, rust doesn't only eat sheet metal. Its eat iron too given the oppurtunity.
 

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Here are some pics of what I got out of that bad head AFTER running the Electolysis for 8 hours. Look at the 2 center exhaust ports and all the rust and decayed iron I got out of just those 2 ports. Those ports basically have ported themselves. LOL. They are now much bigger than OEM. Also notice the chunk missing in the webbing that seperates the 2 ports. I'd have like to have used these C heads since they are said to be the best flowing. But, looking at a flow chart, the E heads flow almost just as well, and the advantage to the E heads, is 3 cc less combustion chambers making the compression ratio a bit higher. So I'll likely sell this one good C head and use my E heads instead.

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89Suburban

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Damn, that's rough lookin man. :sad72:
 

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